I agree with ChvyKc. I definitely do not want to promote wiring lights off the cig lighter. It's not an ideal install and would not be my recommendation, but it "could" work.

Are you sure the marking would line up on each rotation? Are the stock pullies at a even rotation rate (1:1 2:1 etc) or are they something in between (1.25:1 etc)?You can check what the belt deflection should be in a manual. I would assume it should be a little over 1", but make sure you...

Four gauge bulbs should be fine cause they do have VERY little current draw.

http://www.vfaq.comgoto ELECTRICAL---->WIRE COLORS---->2G

I have their "race" core and the install was pretty straight forward for a FMIC of that size. I didnt have to cut the radiator support, but some minor tweaking of the intercooler brackets was necessary for it not to hit the hood and be level. I had to significantly cut the plastic bumper...

thanks, but I rebuilt my engine almost three years ago after the last post ROFL

I can understand the benefits of keeping exhaust velocity up and turbulence down, but I also can see the benefits of decreasing airflow restrictions. Like I said before its a give and take situation that I would be more interested in the learning about.

Go with the EVO :thumb: The spoolup difference between a regular 16g and EVOIII will barely be noticeable if at all and the EVOIII has a slight airflow advantage above the regular 16G.

There an old saying that goes: Cars can be Fast, Cheap, or Reliable. Pick two :)If you have the money I would personally choose a LS1 Trans AM/Firebird. They are expensive, but they respond extremely well to mods and will maintain alot of their reliability.BTW DSM's are Fast and...

Just noticed that you listed a ported 2g manifold in your mod list. Was this mod done before you decided that an unported manifold was prefered? Or did you just port the runners? Just tryin to see from your point of view.Also Twin-scroll designs utilize a lighter rotating assembly in...

I couldn't find my personal pictures of before/after my manifolds porting, but my personal experience is that the porting IS worth it. I reduced spoolup on my B16g by 2-300 RPMS. I may have been wrong in my wording when I said "elminating" the divider. I did leave some of the divider to...

You should post a link then so we all can save $15.

You can use the throttle cable from a 2.4 spdyer.Or you can click here: http://store.yahoo.com/machv/nonconthrotc.htmlEDIT: Just looked that your N/T. I dont know if the above will work then.

I uploaded the ECU pinouts in an earlier thread today: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174119The #4 Pinout is to the oxygen sensor. This is the wire you want to tap.

There is NOTHING wrong with eliminating the center divider. Actually, this is the most restrictive part of the manifold and where you will see the most improvement.

Before my EGT I would just wait until the coolant started to warm up. Once your water temp begins to read on the factory gauge you should be plenty ready to go for a drive.

The top connector? Its for the power steering pump. It attaches top and center of the PS pump. Theres a little nipple for it to go on. :sneaky:

Same thing had happened to my car when I had purchased. The oil pump shaft was tweaked from the balance shaft belt going. Long story short I went through two oil pump sprockets before realizing this and having to buy a brand new front cover. Good Luck

Striaght from www.vfaq.com1G ECU Pinouts, Horizontal LayoutPin Connection Pin Connection 101 Ground 106 Ground 102 Power supply 107 Power supply (to MPI Control Relay and ??) 103 Battery backup power supply (constant 12V) 108 Ignition switch - ST 104 Neutral safety switch...

You dont really need to wait for the coolant to come to operating temp. The most important thing is that the oil is near temp. I always just wait until my EGT's get to normal temp which is about 800F. By this time the needle on the coolant temp is just moving up to the lowest mark. This is...

The ECU's temperatur sensor is the bigger looking unit mounted to the immediate top of the original picture.

Sorry, your first post made it sound like you had completely left out the TOB. Like Defiant said, you will most likely be fine with the old TOB in place.

Its there for reason. You need to install it :rolleyes:

No problem. Have fun scaring pedestrians ;)

How are you reading your A/F? Im assuming its from a Autometer type gauge. This is a completely useless way to view your A/F ratio. The readings on these gauges have no significance whatsoever other then maybe telling you your O2 sensor is going bad. If anything has changed the gauges...

The coolant temperature sensor is on the thermostat housing. The sensor just threads in and out so install/removal is as easy as it gets.

The original grounding point is by the hanger closet to the front of the car by the rear 02 sensor. I just bought some grounding strap and mounted it between the exhaust hanger and then to the pipe with a large hose clamp.

Are you refer to removing the center divider in the turbine housing? If so some companies started removing the section as a last resort type band-aid in eliminate boost creep. I would think it would be possible to have a welder fill in the divider and grind it smooth, but a more reasonable fix...

I have heard stories of people running into problems without the exhaust ground hooked up, but I've never actullay knew anybody personally who had a problem. For the effort you may as well just hook it up to keep all the factory ground points in place.

Yes, they SHOULD have checked all the lines, but like you said you weren't impressed with the mechanics. It does not sound like idle surge which leads me to assume a vacuum leak. You would be surprised to find where all those hoses can leak/crack that are not visible to the naked eye. To do a...

It does not really matter if the rear o2 is there. It is there to make sure the catylitic converter is working. The only downside to removing it is that you might possibly throw a CEL.

Sounds like you just have a good vauum leak. Check all your vacuum lines for cracks/tears.

Its probably your timing belt rubbing against the cover. They have a way of warping a bit over time. Just take care when you tighten it as to not make it rub.

You could have refilled the fluid too quickly and created air pockets in your coolant lines. I also agree thats its a good time to replace the thermostat.

The root of your problem is an engine that has insufficient compression and bad rings. You NEED to rebuild the block.

wow looks like you have some problems on hand. First off, you can run a check on the ignition modules using an ohm meter. Disconnect the ole battery and run the meter between the middle pin (B-) and each of the sides separately. Right side is 1 and 4 and left side is 2 and 3. If the...

I did the same thing. I wouldn't trust a block off plate to seal properly against the intake manifold. Mine leaked quite a bit until i installed a home-made gasket.

ROFLMAO :laugh: :thumb:

The T25 will run start to run out of breath at 5500 RPM's. I would recommend shifting between 6000 and 6500.

I use the 4th setting, but it is kind of a harsh ride

Im wondering this too. Any pics or can you list what came with the kit? If they are one in the same then ill buy it tonight :cool:EDIT: found this so nevermind http://www.nitrousexpress.com/mainline/mainline_efi_customer.psd.pdf

I have heard some instances of the downpipe not lining up, but personally my 02 Elim fit perfectly. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

It is normal for a BOV to be open during idle and part throttle situations. This is one of the many reasons that venting a BOV is bad. The reason there is a high pitched sound is probably because your car is idling at ~3000 RPMs. Fix your idle problem and Im sure your BOV is fine.

How to Use a Pocketlogger: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57771

I don't believe there is a silicone that could withstand that sort of heat. The turbo/manifold gets extremely hot. I spent five minutes trying to drudge up an old pic of a turbo cast glowing bright red after a run, but to no avail. Are you worried about proper sealing? A copper gasket on the...

Looks like one of those micro rc cars that my dog has come to hate ;) .

Definitely put the boost controller back on. You may be hitting 15psi now but that will change the more you modify the restrictions that are in the intake and exhaust tracts. As far as porting the manifold and O2 housing its worth doin and its free if you already have the tools. You will...

Your alternator is probably in the process of going out. Mine did the same thing for a few days before it completely broke.

Put it back on...