SBC kevlar disc, ACT 2100 PP, and Competition Clutch lightweight flywheel. Very nice.

There are 3 more TNT's out at Bremerton Raceway. $40 for entrance and tech card. Might be worth a shot to go there, never been there myself. Sept 14th, 21st, and October 5th, gates open at 3, start racing at 4, closes at 9.

That's the plan for the 2.3 :thumb:

Thanks I ended up ruining across that thread a few hours after I posted. Just want to make sure I'm picking up the right block.

Got a line on a revised 7 bolt block and was wondering what the main difference is between the 1st and 2nd design. Its a bare block, so it would be easy to tell. TIA.

Just in the Seattle area.

Well we got it torn down yesterday to the bare block. Spun #5 rod bearing into itself. The rest of the engine looked ok though for 100k miles. His plan is a 402 stroker, LS3 heads, big ass cam, some other go fast goodies as well. 500 n/a @ the wheels. Oh, and like I said about no oil, there was...

TRE isnt bad I hear either.You could call TrcTrans in Kent and see what they can do for you.

That was the old T25 setup. Only had a Supra smic and the 3" ext then. Hoping for 13.2 or so with the bolt-ons I have now. :idontknow:

HA! Yes, that was him then. Exact run numbers. Definitely post the video, I would like to show him.Should of done a mid to high 12's on that run if everything went well. He's ran 13.4 before at 116(shitty launch).Its more of a silvery blue color. Im trying to convince him to do a 418...

Possibly if I get a helmet by then.

I forgot about it, was going to come out. Ended up coming out though to help a friend load his GTO on a trailer after a missed shift, low oil, and over-rev. Seized it at the end of the track. Might come out to the next TNT

Check front BJ's, when maintenance was done last, frame damage, ect.. Miles look high, check the turbo for shaft play, pop the timing belt top cover off and take a peek, make sure things are not butchered or rigged together. Maybe get someone who knows these cars well to help you out in looking...

It has to be SNELL 2010 approved, IIRC. A buddy just bought one from Hinshaw Honda and has driven down the track with it.And im not sure about a front bumper, I'd call and check before hand. I havent seen any cars run w/o them. Seen no hoods, though.

Make sure if you run a 13.99 and faster your helmet is up to date and spec. They have been checking them this year alot more than the last.

It'll take some time, but I would remove the o2 housing and flat sand the flange. If that doesn't help, the flange on the DP might be warped. What I've also done in the past is use 2 gaskets and the high temp copper rtv sealant. Its worked good and held the heat.

Good to know. Thought $200 wasn't bad if it was worth using. No wonder its been on CL for 3 months with continuous price cuts. Thanks!

I've done a search without much info on this. Wondering if it would be worth picking up for a 2.3 AWD 5spd car, looking at 500+whp and spool by 4,000ish.

Looking for a manifold to turbine housing bolt, just one. Not going to be able to get to Fastenal or Tacoma Screw by 5pm and neither of them are open on the weekends :rolleyes: :notgood: Its a 10x1.25x roughly 3".Something close to where I'm at is perferred. Shoot me a text if you have one...

Decided to throw an ISC at it after testing everything else possible. Fixed the problem. Guess you can't always trust an ohm test. Even with the ISC removed and turning the key on, it moved in and out, but if you did it over and over(roughly 5-8 times), it would hardly move. Suspected that 17...

Should be the same.

stmdsm.com is where I got mine.

This is my DD, and I'm not one to keep throwing parts on something in hopes to fix it, especially when there isn't much available locally in junkyards or from other DSMers.I doubt 2 different MAFs would cause the same problems. Going to put the 2G TB back on and see if that helps. I did...

If it's under enough pressure, yes.

Could be as simple as a coolant hose blowing of the turbo.

Could be a coolant line spraying on the manifold as well.

Do a pressure test and see where it's leaking from.

Tire balance or worn front end parts/alignment issues.

Quick recap: Reciently replaced my stock intake manifold and TB with a non EGR intake manifold and a 1G throttle body. FIAV has been blocked off as well, with JB weld. Rebuilt the TB with MIL.SPEC seals, new OEM FIAV gasket, new OEM TB gaskets, new ISC o-ring. Replaced the intake manifold gasket...

2G MAFT with 3” GM MAF, prefer the latest version. With or without couplers and clamps.Or a good working 2G stock MAF.Mine finally took a $h!t and need something asap.

Sweet, glad I didn't order the adapter today. Also wasn't sure what it was referred to exactly. Will be getting Link when the build goes underway.Still am curious to find out what it came off of though.

Well then, that works for me. I don't mind the check eng light on, its registered where emissions aren't required.

There ate no markings on it besides 2 numbers in a circle. I plan to push it on a built 2.3 .

Don't know how I missed that one when looking through their pages. More in my price range and don't have to spend a half hour making one. Thanks!

I got a non EGR manifold with my car when I purchased it over a year ago. Decided to do some port work and bore/sand out the TB flange for a 1G TB I've rebuilt. Now its time for everything to go on, but it isn't cast with the MAP sensor flange like the one currently on the car. Also, is this...

You could, probably won't like the end results though.

Post some pics.

Brand and the quality of the materials used.

Try rockauto.com

This or poor flow through the injectors(dirty, clogged, weak) is a possibility. Have you tried cleaning the MAF?

On the left side sitting in the drivers seat or looking at the front of the car?

Is that just the engine or complete car? If its engine only, with that high of mileage and being a N/T, I'd offer $150 at most as a re-buildable core. But thats just me.

Just be careful with the plasti-dip when you torque the lug nuts. Mine grabbed when the thinwall socket rubbed the lug holes and twisted off a good portion of the coating.

Have you blown the current one out?

What are your overall goals for the car?

1 SPW and 1 Sparco(real?) seats.Sparco has some wear on the side upholstery, couple stains/fading spots, but is still comfortable, snug fitting, and overall a 6.5 out of 10. Its a hardback seat, does not recline. Tracks/seat mounts made for a 2G(poss 1G?). The drivers seat track slides back...

I've got one, aftermarket oil cap that leaks slightly and a couple of the bosses where the plug wire cover bolts to are broke, but ok condition otherwise.

I don't have anything special but I'm down to check it out.

Did it end up going out? Possible bad or worn spot on the sender.Mine comes on when I take long swinging turns(usually freeway onramps) when its around an 1/8th, but then will go out shortly afterwards. Also happens on steep up or downhill roads.

If you still have the timing cover off, make sure everything is still lined up. If its all assembled, line up the camshaft gears and check to see of the crank pulley is lined up with the 'T' on the timing cover.