Just wanted to make sure I wasn't bottlenecking my fuel system by putting the Russel on. I'm running an FP 255 fuel pump and FIC 850 injectors reaching for 350awhp. Also, how did you setup the Russel to work on the car? STM has a filter to rail kit, but that only works with an OEM filter. Any...

It says the Russel is rated for 1000hp?

Awesome! How does the 130gph flow capability compare to an OEM filter? Is it at least the same? I know OEM filters have supported up to 500hp and the fuelab 818 is rated @ 200gph.

They call it a "disc element" filter. There's a picture in the web page of the filter itself, definitely not paper.

I've searched/googled and haven't found much that was conclusive. I was wondering if anyone here has used the Russel fuel filters instead of an OEM one? I mainly want to use a Russel because of the SS filter for use with e85. They say they flow up to 130gph, but I don't know how much an OEM...

I don't want to get into a turbo debate, but based on my research the e316g would be hard pressed to make 350awhp on pump gas. Even if it did I would be running the turbo @ max efficiency all the time and therefore burning through turbos like oil changes. A special build TD05H 20G will have no...

I'd like to bring this back as well. I know people say go FP, but most the folks saying that also follow that with a statement about the top end flow gains. What about for a road course/street car? Doesn't the evo have much better low end pull (which a 2.0 desperately needs)? I would like to...

I don't remember the exact circumstances surrounding the failures, but one in particular was posted with pics on this forum. The tab that the ball joint is mounted in snapped clean off the control arm. No bueno...

What about the Napa brand? They're almost as pricey as the OEM ones, but what is Moog quality compared to Napa parts?

I did some searching on here and found plenty about the front lower control arms, but not as much on the front uppers. I know people have found some issues with the Dorman lowers, but I believe Dorman also chimmed in on the convo and sent a revised part with a better weld as well. I've also seen...

awesome!

It's not hype bro, it's a FACT that it was a flawed design to which even Mitsu admits. If it was a non issue then Mitsu never would've felt the need to "fix it" in the 2gb motors or go with the different design in the Evo 7 bolts. I personally wouldn't want to gamble a 3k+ motor build on a...

I'm surprised no one has told him to ditch the 7 bolt right off the bat lol. Even if you rebuild the motor you run the risk of the dreaded crankwalk because it's in the the worst year range (95-96) known for having that problem. You could try to update your 7 bolt block to the 99 7 bolt thrust...

Does anyone have any word on if/where we can get the turbines themselves? I'd really like to go with this turbine when I have my s16G converted to a TD05H 20G!KAMAK DYNAMICS - kamak on sema 2012 2nd WE ARE AT SEMA SHOW 2012 BOOTH 20163 LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER

This was the best place I could find to post this. I was wondering what was recommended to fix broken off bolt holes that bolt the front bumper cover to the crash bar. Is this something any bodyshop can or do I need a fiberglass specialist? The bumper came this way when I bought the car and was...

I'm gonna go with a B&M cooler core. Summit has a good price on one that's around the size I was looking for.These were the exact reasons (with the emphasis being on reasons 2 & 3) spelled out by the guy I'm working with on this build for running the air cooled design. If you assemble the...

Has anyone used the cxracing cooling cores? They have a nice selection of sizes and good prices...

This car will see some course (auto-x) time with friends on the weekend, but is mainly meant to be a DD. I planned on running the air cooler design because you don't have to worry about the leaking issues of the water cooled setup. I didn't know it was "safe" to just delete the oil cooler...

It was recommended by the shop I worked with for my motor build, plus I heard some bad stories about the factory water cooled system developing cracks and leaking into the oil (or something along those lines). I'm doing everything I can to make the car as mechanically sound/dependable as I can...

Thanks guys! I'll have to go track down some of the Purple Power :)

I'm installing a 90 oil filter housing so I can use an air-to-oil cooler on my car. I just wanted to know what I should use to clean it off before installing it. It came off of a car with NO internal issues (like a spun bearing) so I'm not worried about metal shavings hiding in there, but it has...

Wow...how lame is that...although a Turbo builder/rebuilder i was talking to on here said he would get one for me when I was talking about my build with him. I don't know If he has a connection, or if he didn't realize they weren't available separately? I guess we'll see...

That would be AWESOME if they did, but I guess you could always resort to the kamak 9 blade turbine. It sure would be nice to have those bigger blades though...

I'm talking about the earlier post that stated "Mitsubishi came out with a turbo for EVO X. May be of interest to DSMers for several reasons. The X turbo is standard rotation. hopefully Robert will be able to sell turbine wheels from this turbo. At near 6SL2 size and 9 blade it is juicy."...

Did you ever use is this setup? I know that the 6cm housing keeps spool nice and fast on our smaller displacement motors, but even if machined for a bigger wheel, how much does the top end suffer?What about a 20g with an evo x turbine wheel? That could be a better balance of power vs spool...

I planned on running 36 in front and either 33 or 36 in the rear depending on if the staggered psi was necessary.

I hear what your saying, but lessening the rolling resistance will add more mpg's especially at highway cruising speeds. The "softer" a tire is the more traction or hookup it will have, but that also means there is more drag from the ground on the tire. If you stiffen the tire up it will handle...

Another thought I had....is the difference between the front and rear tires based in a set numerical psi value or the percentage of 1 tire vs the other? Example 32 front/29 rear is 3 psi apart, and 29/32~91%. So do you just keep the tires 3 psi apart as you increase the pressure or do you...

First off, I have searched on here and elsewhere and did find a few threads related to this via dsmtalk, but I just wanted to make sure I was understanding everything correctly. I know since these cars were being manufactured many companies have gone with higher recommended psi's to help with...

Maybe the Kamak would still suit my purpose then...anyone know the weight of these vs a stock MHI 20G wheel? Ideally the flow of a 20G w/the spool of a 16G is what I'm after.

My plan for my next turbo was to fit an MHI 20G with a Kamak billet wheel and 9 blade turbine in a 7cm housing. But if there's no spool gains from the billet wheel then I don't see the point.

I'm with you! I thought the gain of billet wheels was that they could machine them thinner with more aggressive blade design because of the stronger metal giving the wheel more surface and making them lighter. The weight savings was supposed to help them spool faster and the increased surface...

I'm also open to suggestions for shops in the local metro Detroit area that would allow me to bring the trans in and have them remove/reinstall the center diff without charging an arm and a leg. Obviously I don't want to take it somewhere that won't do a good job just for the sake of getting it...

I absolutely hear you on this and would have no problem taking it to a shop if time wasn't a factor. For a car whose goal is 350awhp it's almost asinine to not put a 4 spider in there. I don't plan on beating on the car but I don't want to have to drive it like it's made of glass either and cars...

Unfortunately this is a bit of an extenuating circumstance. The shop I'm working with for the motor build/install isn't willing to sit on the car waiting for the trans to come back. If I can get the center diff out and take it to TRE he can machine it and turn it around in an hour. If I take the...

Well the new six bolt motor is ready to go in and since the trans will be easily accessible when I pull the old motor, I thought this would be the opportune time to have the 4 spider center diff mod done since it wasn't done when the trans was rebuilt about 100 miles ago. The problem is that I...

I see...well it sounds like I'd have to take the trans to a shop, have them remove the center diff, send it off to Jack's to be machined then have the shop reinstall it...which I may not have time to do unfortunately. Sux...maybe I won't be upping the boost after all. :(

Yes, my goal is still 350awhp. I'd really like to have the 4 spider setup. How difficult is it to install? Not a competent trans guy, but with the new motor going in there will "easy" access to the trans so if it's not too bad I could have it done.I believe the biggest selling point is the...

I kind of want to bring this back considering how ignorant I was when I started this. I had just gotten into this car and really knew nothing about DSM's or turbo cars in general at the time, so my apologies and please disregard any ignorant replies/statements before this one lol. I'm three...

I would just like to know if the 10 blade version is truly capable of flowing even more air like they claim. I know when it comes to turbine wheels the ones with fewer blades usually flow better, especially up top. (like the holset turbos)

Must've misunderstood their description. They make it seem like their turbine squeezes every bit of efficiency out of that billet wheel though!How do people feel about the newer 10 blade "high flow" design billet wheels vs the ones that keep the dual 6 blade design?

Aren't Kamak's turbine wheels also billet though making the rotating mass even lighter?

Why not one of kamak's 9 blades?

Feel like bringing this one back...any more people used or found any more info or numbers on these? If the 15% gain claim is true, that would turn a 42 lb/min E316G into a 48.3 lb/min turbo, which is basically the same as a TD05H 20G. 16G spool with 20G flow would make a killer street/course car...

Very interesting and good to know!

Unless there's something else going on with the design of the wheel, wouldn't the snail turbo suffer from surge problems with the flat leading edges?

Wow, talk about lighting fast spool lol...don't expect much on the top end though, that housing will even choke the top end on a 14b. I think I'd do a 3" down-firing compressor cover, billet compressor wheel, 9 blade Kamak STS turbine wheel and 7cm housing. KILLER 20G right there :-)

I hear you on that, for most it may not be worth it. For me personally, any way to improve my spool time/top end ratio is worth it to me. While I know 350awhp has been had on smaller turbos, a TD05H 20G will make it easier to get to there and will probably handle it better on a day-to day basis...

Some billet wheels have extended blade designs or different aero that takes advantage of the stronger material to achieve more flow (In most cases, the hub can be machined smaller so the wheel itself has more overall surface area which results on more flow). In one of these threads/posts I...

It's one of Kamak's designs. They call it a "9 blade STS type" turbine wheel. A turbo (re)builder on here recommend I use it instead of using a clipped TD05H turbine.