You gonna throw those BBS's on it? I wanted to scoop them up but wasn't sure if they'd fit well with the +45 offset. The guy told me they "sold locally to a guy with grey talon, black wheels." AFAIK yours is the only one in town! Lol.
Are you talking about the heatshield inside the turbo? If so, any 14b/16g heatshield will work since they basically (but not exactly) use the same CHRA, shaft and turbine wheel.BTW, a 14b isn't a TD04.
It was the injectors/old fuel. They mysteriously clogged over a couple days and after cleaning them, it started, ran fine, and then ran crappy again. After a fresh tank the problem went away.
Wow, you've been busy! I'm jealous that your "beater build" is way nicer and more than likely faster than my "clean car" build. Haha.I've got one Mil-spec shaft seal laying around if you happen to need it. I messed up the first install I ever did.. haha. Not sure if you're using the turbo TB...
Hey guys, I've developed a new problem and have been searching my butt off to no avail.Long story short:Had to do a timing job due to worn belt. Note, car ran amazingly before. Did the timing job, had a friend rotate the motor for me when I wasn't watching. Said everything checked out. So we...
I work at a body shop, and I'm sorry to say but I'm 99% sure we'd total that. It'd be impossible to find all the parts new, very hard to get used, and with labor alone it'd be way up there for replacing that rear section.You might be able to work out a deal with the insurance company where...
Your vacuum with your DKS cams is normal. It's higher in gear probably from decelerating which pulls more vacuum.Also it's very tough to determine if your Tru-Boost is working if you didn't even actually try to use it and just set it to run WG pressure.
Still hoping somebody can chime in. I tested a few more things and came up with a few results but nothing huge.-MFI/MPI relay good
-No power to above relay
-Test light lights up on both pins of the #4 20A Engine fuse with fuse removed
-ECU good
Bumping to add info. Really hope some electrical gurus can help me out here.I removed the turbo timer completely. No change but of course the turbo timer no longer is powered on. The dash lights that stay on without key can be turned off if I unplug the BIG BLUE connector behind the radio...
Hoping somebody can help with this, because I need the car running tomorrow..Anyway. long story short, I pulled the engine harness out to do a very minor wire tuck which consisted of ONLY extending injector, tps, and cas wires.Now I have everything plugged back in where it should be (at...
+1 on those being the individual layers.When I pulled mine off about a week ago they were starting to separate. I just bolted them on accordingly without welding or anything. I suppose you could scuff them and use some panel bond glue as another alternative but why bother? The bolts hold them...
Is it a warranty from their supplier or is it the shops warranty?Honestly, talk to the shop. That's going to get you moving along much quicker than anyone here will be able to.Also, stock head studs? How much boost were you running?
Niteshades is easily removed with carb cleaner. Buff the object afterwards to get rid of the white residue. I have done this on several different occasions.
Debris, incorrect procedure followed, cheap parts, and my absolute favorite: failing adjustable cam gears. Some people never replace the hydraulic tensioner too which is just asking for it.
I'd just tune more conservatively for the 91 in the meantime. Lower timing advance and maybe a little easy on the boost. Just until you switch you E85. Yes, you really want to switch to E85. You'll wonder why it took you so long to do it.:)
There is a dyno test lurking around somewhere where an FP intake was tested against an Injen (or knock off.. can't remember) intake. The 4" FP dynoed lower for the 2.25" inlet than the Injen intake. I love the FP intake myself but apparently it hurts performance on smaller inlets.
Depending on the size hose you have you can virtually mount it any damn where as long as youkeep the hose away from any belts. I'd mount it where you can see it easily for a couple tanks of gas, then move it out of sight when you can verify it isn't leaking and there are no problems with it...
+1,000,000.You want 500awhp through an auto awd? With 650cc injectors and a chinese 20G turbo?You planning to stuff an LSx under the hood or something?
In case you haven't already tackled it, here's my two cents.If you want to avoid risking breaking any bolts or snapping any exhaust manifold studs I would disconnect the turbo by the v-band clamp.Remove the intake pipe completely. Remove the lower intercooler pipe as well as the J pipe...
You have two options. If the flapper is welded shut, you should use a manifold with wastegate provision. Now if you want to use an o2 housing with wastegate provision you will need to open up that hole and cut the flapper off.Also OP, that boost controller in your first picture is a bleeder...
I have to wonder if somebody is playing a prank on you. Reminds me of the old "horn when you hit the brakes" prank we did back in the day.I'm with the idea of a hacked alarm system job too. Remote starters have an anti-theft feature where if the brake pedal is depressed without the key in...
A lot of aftermarket sensors get destroyed by the engine vibrations. Even if they don't break off they will quickly become inaccurate. Not to say this is going to happen to everybody, but it has happened to quite a few people.I know this is a bad example due to the reputation of the brand...
I've read quite a few times that BC springs are good for 272s. That's why I bought a set and have been running them for a couple years now with my HKS 264/272 combo.No complaints.
You can get SEM Vinyl dye too. It's a little spendy but my dash has been dyed black for over a year and a half with no scratches or chips. You need to clean it really nice first and then promote it with SEM XXX.
Every car is different and nobody can tell you your settings for idle/mid/wot. You need to tune those specifically yourself by watching the wideband or logging a pull and adjusting accordingly.Here's instructions you can pull up on word:
1G / 2G DSM MAFT version 2.XX (Current Version!) -...
^This. If you're (excessively) pressurizing your crankcase when doing a boost leak test something is wrong. Either the car isn't fully warmed up or you've got other issues.
Heh. Ask my buddy:
SuperMoToolz: RIDER DOWN! SnowMobile CRASH! - YouTubeHe says yes. This was only a week and a half ago.BACK on topic, a customer just came in yesterday and was swearing up and down that his Audi has a button to turn the turbo on and off. I asked him to show me and he...
You can get away with using a one made from a pop can for a little while.:DAre you sure auto parts stores near you don't carry them? At O'Reillys you have to ask for the "turbocharger gasket kit" for a 1G. It's a $30 kit but has the gasket you need in it I believe.
It's not too hard. Get yourself a nice pry bar and hopefully you have an impact. I can't remember which side but the sway bar end link is in the way of getting to the bottom strut bolts on the front. If you don't have an impact to use on it you can try vice grips on the rear end and ratchet on...
You know what would help your ET? Ditching that third pedal.ROFLYou've got your work cut out for your it looks like. Hopefully you have somewhere warm to work on that thing.