Oddly enough those are Speedhut gauges, the diameter is 4 1/2" (GPS speed and tach) and 3 3/8" (dual gauges). All panel mount and good construction.

I have hopes of getting this done in the next few months, if I have it "rolling" by then I will post here about the results of pedal feel (no engine though) - should stop like normal since it is a booster delete and contains a tandem 1" master cylinder (bigger than the 3G).

According to them, it can work up to 6-pot front and 4-pot rear combos, I will be running 4-pot front/2-pot rear so it should feel normal (if not better). It also has an individual rear bias adjust as well (lower spin knob).

Hopefully, it will do a few things: 1. provide a dual system in which if the front fails I still have the back and vice versa. 2. Give me the same pedal feel as if I had a brake booster. 3. Resolve the potential cam idle issue of fluctuating vacuum. On that note, it should give me consistent...

Chase Bays dual piston brake booster delete (uses 6:1 power ratio).

Could be the detergent in the petroleum, I have seen similar stuff in mine but I wasn't using any octane booster. Or it could be the cast iron breaking down from the heat (rusting).

I may PM you (NWHTanK) on your tubular front... I am thinking of doing something similar due to some irreplaceable damage to the corner.

Sounds good, you have been busy since I've been gone...

Thanks, glad to be back. It has been a while and I believe I have neglected her long enough. Truly starting from the ground up this time.

I had a similar situation but I don't think you would want to do what I did, I wound up removing the whole engine, transmission, and transfer case because it was stuck. Oddly enough the shaft is still in the transfer case. It did take a bit of hammering but I did it outside of the engine bay...

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-dsm-circuit-diagrams-electrical-factory-service-manual.517377/This will be your best friend. Read it, learn it, and commit... once you start you definitely want to either create stopping points or at least have all of your notes written somewhere. Wiring is...

This is the Build Thread for '91 3000GT VR4 "Marlene". Reply below.

Or you can put whatever you want wherever you want. The only things that will be specific in terms of keeping it street legal are the engine connectors due to the sensors. Everything else can be pinned differently if you check out sites like Digikey, Wirecare, Waytek Wire, and Mouser.I say...

First thing I would do is test fit it down in the tank as you have a very shallow area to deal with along with the baffle. Once you have verified that the wiring will not matter since it is a resistance measurement (90 ohms empty, nearly 0 when full). However, make sure you have the pins in the...

Could almost do a variable resistor from Mouser, or whoever in the UK, as well so that the bulkieness is not there. Nice find though.

An additional note. When polishing the lens start at 300-500 grit and work your way to ~3000 to get a good polish. Soap and water is enough to clean and polish. Once done, look on Amazon for McGuires Headlight protective coating, cheap find, and put a coat or two with time in between on it -...

For just LED flashers anything is cheaper than my vision. What I am going to do, again for my setup, is to incorporate a DRL setup that was not originally on the car (not this model anyway). Since I do not have any of my harnesses anymore I am starting from scratch and wanted to see if this type...

I am currently finding it hard to incorporate it into the stock system without major modifications to the wiring. However, this does not mean that I won't create it or it won't be incorporated into the custom full body harness I would like to start freelancing on.

There are few places that I would search for, I have them on my computer and I will get them to you once I get back to the house.

Great minds think alike. Unfortunately I got rid of all my harnesses and will be doing half of what you said. Either way, ya done good sir, ya done good. I might steal the idea of subsections though. I did find some nice general fuse boxes at Waytek Wire (online) that you might consider, and...

Or, you always make one from scratch and fix all the unnecessary loops and long travels the OEM wiring creates. Either way, you did well considering the age and the quality of spare harnesses the DSM community has on now classic cars.

I am looking at the schematic for the 96 (same as 95), and I had seen an A47 (2-pin, receiver/drier) and A95 (3-pin, compressor) that would be what you are looking for that is connected to the receiver/drier and compressor. Take a look at these and hopefully, this will help. Please see attached...

If these are for the 2g DSM please look here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/, also I would reference the following attachment. Most of your connectors will match the face at the bottom of each schematic. Depending on which harness you are...

You will also quickly learn that fabricating or having someone fabricate for you also works as well. Originally from Blue Springs, MO, welcome to the DSM game.

Voltage is a possibility. However, what I would check is the current output of your alternator. You can still get a nominal voltage but have a lower current, the OEM alternator produces ~90A, as stated above, your alternator could be out. Double-check the current output and let us know what's up.

For those interested in the OVP circuit simulation.

Update:Making this modular in the sense that it can be made PnP has been confirmed. I located a site that can supply the connectors needed to make the modules easily installable and can revert back if need be. More to come, keep posted.

That is definitely the plan, given the research from Bobby (ec17pse) we will see what the outcome of that is. My plan is that if you are trying to avoid potential modification of the stock flasher, or use of inline resistors, then this will be the plan. At the moment I am also researching the...

I think I might consider designing two, or even three, different circuits that would be the flasher, DRL, or both depending on what someone needs or requires. In your case, I would think a flasher module would be perfect and simple for your needs, but if you wanted DRLs you would require the...

Similar to my projected fuel setup, I have completely removed the electrical system, harnesses and all, from my 2G. With that said, I am building a cheaper option to restoring the functions typically found in a daily while making it more modern. With this, DSMers will not only add the DRL module...

For now it is only because that is what I have, ultimately it will be a DSM thing, as I plan to have the modular connect be either a cut and splice or, if possible, a PnP system where I have the matching connector(s) for the 1G or the 2G guys and gals.

Both circuits actually contain a 555 timer (as you mentioned), I actually have a second [similar] circuit that utilizes a 556 timer but the circuitry on that one became very complex due to chip placement and surrounding components. The second 555 is a PWM controller for the DRL brightness. When...

I see; that makes sense. To keep the stock harness and make that work all at the same time will definitely be a challenge, doable, but a challenge. I am guessing the flasher is already incorporated into the unit. What makes this situation weird is that in order to make this work (given the above...

What you can do is connect the module before the headlights and not after. Yes, we have a negatively switched lighting system but it still operates utilizing a +12v signal. If you have a link to the ones you have I can take a look at them for you and give a more accurate solution, but for now...

I completely understand, I figured this would be the case but I wanted to see if anyone would be interested at all and with that, I got more responses than I thought I would in general. I will update this thread the closer I get to actually getting it installed on the vehicle to proceed a demo -...

I could potentially modify the circuit to adapt towards a sequential setup. The one way we could achieve this is by setting the two brake light bulbs and the one turn signal bulb to be simulated on the same circuit at the same time and then modify the brake input to be bypassed by the circuit...

Second simulation.

Because I just finished the PCB build, I was looking to see if anyone would be interested in such. Below I have simulated the two circuits that are schematically built together in place of the variously displayed switches in the simulator.

Looking to get a feel for a potential product I would like to start creating for the DSM Community, of course, this would extend to other modules as well but it is all dependent on what the community wants/needs.With that said, I have designed a DRL/Flasher module that will accept LED lights...

This looks to be an interesting build.

Correction made to the original schematic as seen above, items listed below are currently in stock - currently building the PCB now (making traces).

For something that powerful you definitely cannot pass that up, nice find.

Awesome deal, I will look into that software to see if it will be big enough to support the size of my schematic. Every Circuit, as mentioned above, is a bit too small for the size of the circuit and is missing various components found in systems like EasyEDA.Just installed, not going to lie...

Looking at the FSM the two wires might be your cigarette lighter. Black is definitely a ground, the green and white will be the illumination - this is my guess. A way to check this is to check the voltage when the lights are turned on and connect to the ground, if you connect the two there...

Nicely done, let us know how it turns out [performance-wise].