I've got a hx35W gated housing, 12cm with a welded flapper and an outlet flange I'm looking to possibly trade for a 16cm with an outlet flange or at least enough cash to cover a new one.

Yes but that's a Big H1C. The smaller ones have more different bearing housings.

H1C - 3531667: Compressor wheel: 56mm inducer, 83mm exducer Turbine Wheel: 70mm inducer, 60mm exducer

I have a H1C that I can't identify. Assy # 3531667High Tech Turbo said its a 56mm compressor wheel but I thought H1c's had at largest a 54mm?

MHI 20g goes for 600$ on forceperformance. If you really want the Cylcone version go on car-part.com and look it up. They're around for decent prices. Might need a rebuild but it'd still be cheaper and you'd have a like new turbo.

Any thought go into tube length or diameter? Tubular > cast any day but there are principles to maxxing your gains. I figure if you're customing you might as well make the most of it.

You adjusted the clutch pedal right? If it isn't adjusted it can keep the plates from fully engaging thus making it slip and wear out.It also depends on the disc. The organic discs go fast...

The trick is finding something that looks good AND is lightweight. Then you get performance and looks.

Old engines have gunk, just kind of how it goes. Valve cover gasket could be bad. When you blew the oil seal on the turbo did it spray the engine? A little oil attracts a huge amount of dirt, my guess it that's what you're looking at.

Any mathematics behind that thing?

Vac readings are good. Should always drop just a tidbit from park to drive.That's a solid list. I'd get the tb ported to 63mm to match the intercooler piping and have the UM matched to the tb. Then maybe a longblock...

I'm a Motegi fan, all the way. Very nice wheels.

Rear gauges are cheap and easy to put in.Old gauge can be off for any reasons ranging from cracked wiring to a kinked hose.

Have you tried a new CAS? If the wheel itself is dirty or bent or even just a little bit loose (and subject to vibration) you may still get good readings when you test it but upon real use it'll malfunction.

Mothers clay bar = best car cleaning product on the market. The only thing it won't get rid of is that can. ;)

Why? 8 lbs is within the capabilities of any stock DSM turbo be it T25 or 14b. They both go insanely cheap. The rest of the parts are the same way. 8 psi is cake. All you've got to do is source the parts from the right place and this is it.

First thing you should learn: too many variables, including you and every other driver.

What kind of manifold and what kind of seat? Sounds like you're mismatching parts.

^^^ What he said. It all depends on your plans. If you want a nice DD with maybe a small bump in output then a few bolt ons and maybe a head refresh will suffice but if you want to run quarter mile times you're looking at a deep pocket book.

You need it because since you won't be running a MAF, you'll be metering only off the MAP sensor. Temperature is a HUGE factor in pressure. Say you set your wastegate to 20psi. You go drive and tune it when its 80 degrees out. Then it becomes fall and temp falls into the 50s. All of a sudden...

100 plus ft/lbs AND 20 years of heat cycles and rust. Have fun without air tools. Using the breaker bar gets dangerous. Something bends or bounces and you've got a lot of energy flying around under there.

Follow that link... and DON'T skip an oil change.

Only a small percentage of 4g63's actually crank walk. People just make a huge deal about it when in reality, a percentage of every engine series ever built crank walks.You'll want the GST or GSX, guaranteed. The 420a needs serious work to pull power off of and if you get a 420a car you'll be...

Isn't it right on the oil filter housing?

Exactly how are you launching? 16g doesn't spool up the same way the 14b does.

I highly doubt you'll get it to work without link, unless you're target idle is set higher it will fight your physical adjustments. That on top of the fact that they'll idle a bit rough anyway.Rule of thumb, never mess with the idler screw. You want to keep your TP at 0% when you're off it...

SS lines are the way to go and a nice easy instal for beginner mechanics.I would assume you routed them right and they're not just flopping around next to the rotor which would leave me to believe you've got some serious heat coming off your brakes. You're not stopping hard from 3 digits...

With mods list like that you will definitly need a tuning device. Heck, bone stock the car needs a tune.

BUSHINGS. I'd put money on it. You car will not hold alignment nor be adjustable when your bushings are like jello, and at this age most people's are. Ball joints too, but most likely the bushings because ball joints are obvious that even a basic mechanic should notice them (Though that doesn't...

Lowering springs shouldn't be used with stock struts really in any case. The stock struts are designed for the stock ride height, and compressing them with a 2" drop can net you some scary incidents as these cars are getting quite old. Ever blown a strut before? It's pretty interesting. Not only...

Slowing down your accessories is a waste, they're designed to run where they're at. It won't net you noticeable power with a mods list like yours. Beyond that the smaller diameter and lighter weight lets harmonics have their way with your internals. Ever wonder why shit crankwalks?You'll be...

Did you adjust the master when you put in the new clutch? If you didn't adjust it, it may not be able to disengage.

A cat-back will net you nothing but sound unless you free up the rest of your exhaust. Remember air comes out of your turbo first, restrictions on that end are what keep your horses back. Until you free that up, the cat-back is overkill. If you want sound, just weld in a muffler. That's the...

Flywheel mounts to the end of the crank and the pressure plate mounts to the flywheel. The clutch disc is inbetween and is connected onto the transmission input shaft. When you push in the clutch a fork in the transmission separates the pressure plate and flywheel so you can shift, when you let...

Sounds like a throw out bearing. A common problem is simple rattling at idle that goes away once its under pressure from the fork, that would apply here too. I'd check it out before you drive it too much, you don't want to lose that out on the road...