I always use a prybar to put tension on the back of the pulley and tap on the guide pin the a small chisel and hammer

Sounds like your talking about the balance shaft sprocket(i could be wrong tho). Did your balance belt snap off or just the timing belt chew up? If just the timing belt i would check all of you pulleys and make sure there spinning freely.

When was the last time the belt was replaced?

i wouldnt pay any extra for a peice of paper just my 2 cents

Have you tried adjusting the base idle set screw?

No you vacuum line should not be coming off you wg to your bov

Snap-on for the win!

Have you tried a boost leak testAlso you said you replaced you belts? Check to make sure their tight I've seen cars act wacky if the alt belt isn't tight enough.

Isn't the reservoir in the trunk so how is that cleaning up your engine bay.

I do believe he's holding the shift controler.

Looks like your bov is not recerculated but you still have the bov hose comming off the intake snorkle is it plugged?Also you should look for a black top cas since its a hall effect sensor it might help you out

CAS harness6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

well if its a header back then its cutting out the catalyst converter which will more than likey throw a p0420 code(catalyst efficency) most people add a spacer to the bung in between the 2nd 02 sensor and pipe to help prevent the code from popping up.

looks nice man maybe post a link to where you got those gems?

Off the top of my head a p0455 is a evap system large leak. More likely a bad gas cap gasket or a split or broken evap hose.

What was the code number? It was prob a evap system leak code that's why they told you to buy a fuel cap. If so could be a crack in one of your evap hoses.

Lol thread title is a little iffy.

Your gonna need a way to tune if your installing bigger injectors.

You can also find silicone hose kits that include those hoses.

No I say that because 80% of the v dubs that come into the dealership I work at have this done too their headliners/interior

Looks like a v dub now

i followed this write up.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/233644-fan-wiring.html

look im just helping you out here and spoon feeding you the info that you need. if you dont want to believe anyone on here then why are you even asking? i've already explained that the four mounts are as follows 1. driver side motor mount 2. the rear roll stop 3. the front roll stop 4. the...

Well there's one motor mount two roll stops and one trans mount ill look it up nd post hold onthis is the trans mountTransmission Mount | 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse 4 Cylinders Y 2.0L MFI DOHC | AutoZone.comand here's the mounts you foundMotor Mount | 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse 4 Cylinders...

you can get them at any auto parts

voted... whatcha trying to win anyway?

ground the pin on link like you said then loosen the cam sensor and turn slowly untill you reach base timing

Looks ok but won't serve much purpose since its on the intercooler there's no gap between the two objects so kinda pointless until you move it further away

your pads should slide in and out easily otherwise they'll get stuck in the slides and wear out fast make sure your lube them up well

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/169435-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.htmlall you got to do is search the fourm

Have you checked your slave clyinder? If you pull back the rubber sleeve nd fluid comes out then its bad and needs replaced.

Check your coolant level, and what do you mean "in the red" that is most likly your problem. If the system is overcharged or undercharged your a/c will not work.

i believe your talking about the pressure valve in the line. you can remove it by buying a stainless steel line.

I say #3

Yeah I would cut it where that pic shows it cut and the grind/sand it smooth

No you can't just remove the whole ARM but you should be able to get it very close to the end there and make sure you sand it smooth so that doesn't happen Agian. Why did you need to cut it in the first place?

ok well that sounds horrible i wouldnt run that anymore. have you checked the crank timing? it doesnt matter if the cams line up if the crank doesnt.

Have you checked your swaybar end links or your strut mounts?

well rewire the gauges the right way put in the right rating fuse and go from there

Well you should make sure all the srs connectors are connected first. Then try unhooking the battery for an hour or so see if that works.

i doubt there would be a curved 3rd brake light assy out there. Maybe you could take a red led strip and mold it in.

search for a wiring diagram off google and follow the wires in that circuit look for a short

i dont really know it wouldnt hurt to check else where have you checked for boost leaks a big spike of boost from downshifting at a high rev could have blown one of your couplers offbut you deff need to adress your poor compression with a leak down test

yeah your numbers are low but cly #2 on your first test was already low

so the clutch is not fully releasing have you tried making sure the slave cly will push back in?

Is go with black or gunmetal

Stock amp cable

Did you check the hydrolic system? Master cly slave cly.

A smoke test is ok but what you need to do is a boost leak test to put so pressure in the system. If you don't know the correct way to do this search the fourms.

How much oil did you use? Did you check for proper level after you let the motor run for a min.?