If anyone is looking for a safe way to clean your aluminum that doesn't involve discoloration or breathing in a ton of carb clean try this. Find a container big enough that your part/parts can completely submerge inside and fill it with hot water and a (GENEROUS) amount of Dawn dish soap about...
I've been looking for a throttle body rebuild kit online and coming up with nothing.
Does anyone know where i might be able to find one? including biss screw throttle shaft seal ect ect?
atm there is nothing wrong with my block i warped my cylinder head but figured i would go ahead and replace the bearings new seals / gaskets. just wanting to buy them at once.
ive looked im only finding all the individual gaskets / seals and bearings. i would like to buy it all at once instead of having to buy each piece individually. I did find a bottom end kit from dsm graveyard but it comes with new connecting rods and a new crank and unfortunately i don't need those.
trying to figure out what other make/model cars might have stock 550cc injectors that would match up to a 4g63 engine. If you guys know any or have an idea of where i may be able to find out i would appreciate it.
3.5Q mobil 1 5w30 and a bottle of lucas is what i have been running for about 2 years now makes a noticeable difference over running the full 4.5q of 5w30 in GTX, Mobil, syntec and royal purple. Reading some of these posts have me a bit puzzled seeing people running 15w40 20w50 ect ect. even in...
take off your down pipe, take the 3 bolts and 1 nut holding the turbo to the manifold off and your turbo / O2 housing should drop down enough to slide the manifold off. make sure you don't bend any of your feed / drain lines that are connected to the turbo.
Alright i reset my timing and the car runs alot better than before but it still sputters slighty during idle and is still dieseling. I've replaced / checked... Injectors, Fuel pump, TPS, Cam positioning sensor, Crank positioning sensor, Mass airflow sensor, Plugs & Wires and cleaned the throttle...
alright sorry been so long since i updated you guys. checked all my timing marks and it seems it jumped timing so im going to buy a new belt and tensioner today and get it installed. will let you know of my results.
Yeah but the first step is getting my gst back running properly so i can have a way back and forth to work second is to find out the cost of damage i let happen to the gsx and decide whether or not i should go ahead and do a 6 bolt swap. Thanks for all your input guys I'm sure before all is said...
when i checked the oil it was barely touching the dipstick so i couldn't really tell if it had water in it. with it being as cold as it is i can't tell if it was smoking or just the exhaust being hotter than the air.I did not know that could happen Calan, Thanks.
Here's a bit more information for you guys... compression results 4: 170 3: 150 2: 155 1: 155. I've never heard of a blown head gasket having compression numbers like that and the leak is at the 4th cylinder closest to the front of the block. while its running there is a small ticking sound...
So my thermostat stuck the other morning and i drove... who knows how long while over heating the car i was half asleep and never noticed it happened until it was too late now i have a blown head gasket. Im wondering if anyone could give me a idea of how much damage i may have caused based on...
if the temperature gauge is reading mid range right after starting the car that wouldn't be your thermostat. your thermostat is mechanical and opens and closes due to your coolant temperature it doesn't send a reading to the temperature gauge. Is your CEL light on?
Is the stock temp. gauge going beyond mid range? if it is let the engine cool off and check your coolant level. need more information on where the oil leak appears to be coming from to really make a suggestion on where to begin searching.
my stock T25 170k miles on it would hold 15 psi all day with stock smic and piping as long as you don't have any boost leaks. I recently upgraded to a 16g myself currently only running 15psi which is producing quite a bit of creep.
Let me rephrase if your getting a loud clunk in the rear of your car when you engage gears you should poke your head under the rear end and peak at the rear differential bushings to be sure they are worn out before you decide to purchase some replacements. Also i read that you live some place...
If the noise is a clunk when you engage gears its your rear sub-frame bushings wearing out... you can buy alum. / poly. for about $250 or solid alum. bushings for about $70 (these will ride kinda rough). unless you have been really launching your car and cracked the rear diff you should be fine...
if you fix whatever boost leaks you have you should be pretty happy with the results. 4200rpm on a 14b is quite a bit of leaking. How long have you owned the car and have you done all your preventive's?
sorry work / school has me pretty busy so i haven't had much time to get back into it but i picked up a set of ngk's yesterday and was going to put them in and drain the gas and i heard a really faint hissing sound "vacuum leak" coming from behind the intake manifold so i reached down beside the...
i have never drained the tank before would it be covered in the chilton's manual? i also unplugged the thottle positioning sensor and it ran the same as it was while it was plugged in. ill pick up some fresh plugs tomorrow on my way home from work and figure out how to drain that "pump piss" lol...
i checked the cam timing marks. i put a bottle of lucas in today and let it run it seems to have smoothed out a little bit but still sputtering, dieseling and almost dies when you put it in gear.ill take a video with my phone and post it if i can.Video-0002.mp4 video by xxnumbertwelvexx -...
has codes not sure what they are last time i did a scan i got a cam positioning sensor and o2 sensor, the fuel filter only has about 5k miles on it haven't done a boost test on it will get on that and update you guys. thanks.
I have a 1997 auto gst the car is completely stock when i bought my gsx (about 8 months ago) i let the gst sit until about 3 months ago when i was trying to sell it. i would go out and let the gst run for about 15 mins every couple days. it would always start right up and run great until lets...
I'm looking for a custom J-pipe that instead of going vertically to the ground and making me either run my FMIC piping under the cross member or going all the way back to the cold side of the intercooler and back up to the J-pipe. What i am trying to do is the the flange off my J-pipe weld on a...
If this is your DD do all the maintenance first. and try to keep in mind bigger turbo more boost bigger injectors turns into alot of visits to the gas pump. as far as blocks go both blocks will give you more than enough power to make your jaw drop. the reason most people pick the 6bolt block is...
before buying a new ecu or doing some other off course action if you have ANY wires wrapped with electric tape / bare or anything like that make sure they arent touching each other or anything metal. if your ecu was out your CEL wouldn't be on and for the 2 cylinders part my recently purchased...
selling some parts that are taking up space around my house.2g coil pack 76k miles (do not know if it works) - $10
2g gauge cluster 76k miles - $65
AC belt tensioner - $10
Center console lid - $10
XS tubular exhaust manifold - $45
Venter BOV (dunno what brand) - $20
Intake manifold 76k...
the 3g63T engine is more than capable of being a 10 second car. but you should probably learn about your car and from a more reliable source than Brian O' Connor.
before you go putting all performance parts you should go ahead and buy a 4 layer mitsu head gasket and a set of arp headstuds so you have a oil / water milkshake imo.
did your ecu have any problems before the bearing? if it didn't you should be fine there. you can swap an ecu from an auto to a manual without any problems. check all your vacuum lines and rev up the engine a bit you should be able to hear a whoosh or whistle from whatever is leaking "if it is...