Why not use an aftermarket reducer ?

Well think of it this way the lower the boost you want the more exhaust has to go around the turbo 38mm=1.496" what's your target boost? I'd assume you would want to be in the 20ish range any way to justify a turbo that size double check the springs anyway.

1" pipe to the wastegate would definitely be a bottle neck, your running an open t3 manifold to a twinscroll hot side?

But they have the "best quality control"..:tease:

Test your original starter out of the car to see if the gear was kicking out at all.

If the bolts go through both the trans and starter plate should confirm that the plate is correct (holes for a fwd plate and awd trans shouldn't. Line up), could still be the wrong starter or flywheel though.

http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/extreme-dimensions/mercury/cougar/wing.asp

The 2 bolt style always seems to have clearance issuses, the newer mvs 38mm solves most of these way better for fan room.

If your pulling the oil cooler any way I'd just cut the center bolt/tube shorter and delete it, there always a pain in the ass at some point or another.

You can run 1000cc's off a stock pump if you wanted, once you get to the boost level where your afr's won't match your target afr table(no mater how much you adjust your SD table) you know the pump is maxed, is it suggested.. No.. but if you just want to swap in the injectors and upgrade the...

So your only changing the injectors? You should be fine. the only time a afpr is a concern is if your upgrading the pump, mainly with a 255 or bigger pump where over run would become a consern for the stock regulator.

I thought you had to remove the tail lights and install the center section first? I thought the taillights over lapped the center section a slight bit?

You can ditch the fuel solenoid , as for the condenser I'm not sure

Based off the keyhole for the trunk it looks Centered to me

Yes popping the axle from the trans is way faster (then the hub) and same goes for removing the inner bolt on the lower control arm way faster then messing with the ball joints.

I stated you wouldant be able to install those 2 smaller 10mm bolts , I agree the right way is to pull everything so you can install the smaller bolts but I'd say its kind of like the 4th bolt on 2g headlights (if you ever removed them you would know) more of a pain then its worth.As for the...

Not saying they may not strip but if they did it would be due to the starter dragging from being to close to the ring gear for a very long time and I even highly doubt that , trust me its its mainly a depth placement for both starter to trans and trans to motor. None the less it should be...

The starter plate is more of a spacer /cover (like the lower inspection cover) it doesn't locate the starter the trans bolt holes do. Yes I fully understand there are different starter plates for fwd/awd with different hole spacing. It just spaces the starter to the right depth from the flywheel...

I understand that still should be plenty of room between the flywheel and block , minus not being able to install the 2 small 10mm bolts as I stated.

Maybe its possible to just separate the motor/ trans enought to slide it in place? About 3/8 of an inch to get it over the lower alignment pins. Although you won't be able to put in the 2 small 10mm bolts that hold the starter plate to the block I don't see that being a big deal as all the...

What's the dementions on the mk3 rad your going to use?

Correct go -12 if you want to do it once and right, if you measure the ID of a -10 and stock 2g return you will be surprised.Besides that you could weld one on if you wanted but they have aluminum flanges you can buy that are normally NPT thread in the center so then you would just need an NPT...

I've heard of some one having this problem before. the inside of the hat (were it contacts the hub) was not flat causing it to not run true with the hub, or it can be flat just not parrallel with the front of the rotor hat. Something to take a look at

Priorities can easily be rearranged, I'd start by ordering some larger injectors 1250s? and Divorce lawyer gift Certificates.

That's the style used with water meth injection, besides that I have no experience on how they would react to vacuum.

Pistons DONT powder coat the pistons, seriously though motor mounts, valvecover ,intake manifold,intercooler piping ,waterpipe ,power steering bracket should all be fine to coat.

Were you loging when it happened?

Unless it was damaged in some way you don't have to change it , meaning you dont have to buying a new one Obviously you will have to unbolt it and swap it onto the new pump (4bolts).

I'd swap the wires on the coils and make sure the spark goes to the other cylinders(confirming the coils working) then check the and confirm the connection between the coil trigger wires and ecu , crank sensor shouldn't affect the spark unless your timing was off 6 bolts don't have a crank...

Bad power transistor can cause loss of spark on 2 cylinders.

It's right on tials page..."ThreadAir Ports (5): M10 x 1.0, Water Ports (2): M8 x 1.0"

We're the lifters bleed down when the cams were installed?

You didant some how mix up the left/right and up/down cables did you?

There's plenty of info on boost leak testing, and I wouldn't waste your time upping the boost on the stock t25

Internal wastegates are more likely to spike and be slightly inconsistent not to big of a deal if its only spiking to 15. And it's not uncommon for boost to drop off towards the higher rpms with smaller turbos (if your running the stock t25) you can port the wastegate flapper hole there's plenty...

Paint is just so you can spot the grove fast , 2 groves/marks are normal when timing make sure the dowel pins are on the top and use the 2 inner groves/marks.

Wiki is saying there a hair lighter 3500/3600 but that's with the existing engine ect, it would be a good bit lighter with the 4g in there around 2g awd weight not to big of a deal.

So like a water/meth map sensor progressive control kinda... But thos boost figures sound just like driving a normal 14b car or t25 with out the added parts.

Well Im thinking with boost coming on that soon it will either knock and you will have to pull timming or something in the drive line wouldn't be to happy with it. Maybe I'm not understanding your consept as I wouldn't consider this Eco (wouldn't you be burning more fuel with more time being in...

My thought on why you would not want it running if your less then wot , is simply if your not full throttle then you must be content with your current speed or acceleration, In reality if you have more throttle left why over complicate the system. I Like the over all idea and thought but your...

Just daydreaming here but don't Most rc speed controllers use a 0-5v signal? Isant the tps a 0-5v signal? possible to tap into the tps and have a nice proportional way to control the motor speed? But your going to want full power before full throttle so you can adjust the esc like castle's...

Pictures also don't work, but even the fakes now have serial numbers.

It would be kind of hard to get shavings in the trans when the broken axle is in the trans unless you drilled completely through it , I wouldn't be to conserned.

Awd 5 speed should be the same theory splines are the same size ect.

Yea the first one I tried wouldant fit, still as long as he has a smaller screw driver or something it should go smooth its even worth buying the screwdriver if you didant have it compared to the hassle of drilling/taping the splines in that confined area. Though you do have to go through poping...

Well I did try it on my spare trans and it went smoothly. (Poped it out 4 times to make sure) used a 3/16 flat head craftsman screwdriver 5 1/2 long and a rubber Mallet. Not much effort required honestly way less then what's needed to pop them out normally with a pry bar ect.

Most likely just a rotated compressor housing as stated above, but normally that adds a problem if its still internally wastegated since they bolt to the compressor housing unless a new bracket was made or modified or external waste gated.

The picture is deceiving because of the depth but it looks do able to knock it out from the other side. I highly doubt jb weld would do much even when the axles are intact some times they need some motivating to pop them out. As I said there's a axle cup in the other side of that trans so In the...

Here's a picture of my spare trans (2g 5speed awd) there's a axle in the other side so this should be what you have to work with if you decide to pull the other side.

That the first thing I thought of was pulling the other side axle and using a rod or screw driver to knock it out from the other side. The cross pin for the pinions will be in the way but I'm thinking there should be 1/4 of an inch clearance between the pin and splines. Or.. Weld a bolt or any...