Just wondering if any body have tried this on a colt chasis, must be a darn tight fit.

The evos definitely dont use straight end, its around 100 deg or so angle.

It's a direct fit same as the evo 3, only the evo1 is without EGR provision.

I notice you have a rewired walbro 255, that may have overrun your stock FPR too.

What he says above is what i've always been telling my buddy, but he keeps saying that the inner turbine wheel should be from cylinder 1&4 for better spool. I would say the most important aspect is no cross contamination & equal length runners to get the most out of the twin scroll setup, which...

Not worth the time & hassle, better off spend some money & buy a used cams from the classified.

If you are asking me, cause i'm using 1.

It wont work on a 1g, not unless you get the pigtails together. The socket is pretty much same like the 2g / Evo 8 (hence different than the 1g) except that it only uses 3 of the 4 sockets. So technically you can make it work, same like how they make the evo 8 work on a 2g. The good thing about...

Yes, you can utilize the top port, all u need is have a tee on your existing vac hose & connect the another hose from the tee to the top port. Hook up the MBC along the hose going to the top port & your good to go. Cant really say for sure how much boost increase you'll get tho. On the side...

The bolt on housing of the 20g is usually the same 7cm housing.

If you are trying to fit the HX35 BEP housing to an HX40, definitely wont fit. Turbine wheel size difference.

If you got it together with harness, it would. The socket is different than a 1G so an adapter harness would be required otherwise. Might as well jump straight to the Evo 8 ecu if you consider making an adapter harness.

Not compatible & should not be attempted, 13g is the TD04L / 04HL turbine variant while 14b is TD05H.. Very different center cartridge (will require customization) and the TD05H is a bigger wheel.

i'll do what justin suggest, test the actuato. Apply air pressure to the actuator and see if it is moving, if its not then find a replacement.. becareful not to over pressure it tho.Btw, a manual exhaust manifold for the TD05 (where the manifold & turbo mate up) have a big hole in the center...

first make sure that your compressor cover is properly align. Also the snap ring have tapered edge, if you put it backwards, it will not slide in. I use a snap ring plyer and a screw driver, clamp the snap ring as much as you can then slide the snap ring edge into the slot then push in with...

You mean the compressor cover snap ring?

probably he means SOHC to DOHC.. If so, you'll need the complete head and everything that runs / attached with the timing belt (oil pump, tensioner, etc)..

Not quite, 6 bolts in galants then they change to 7 bolt starting from evo-1 onwards. So all early evos are 7 bolt. Btw, there are also 7 bolts from Mitsu RVR which came with the TD04HL turbo (the oil squirt in these are different then the evos)Mount location is probably different but...

An exhaust leak before the O2 sensor will draw atmospheric air into the exhaust system, making the O2 sensor reads leaner then it actually is. One might then ask why is outside air being drawn into the exhaust system, well the exhaust gas flow at high velocity causing a venturi effect.

It would not cause any problem holding boost, the saying is true but when each wastegate only bypass exhaust gas for 2 cyl, it would hold no matter what.

the 14b hotside has smaller scroll than the Evo 3 hotside, it makes it spool faster but also peaks earlier (less top end).

hmmm, i've seen a couple of stock 1g auto (not much of them here) and it has TD04L in them. Have seen quite a few TD04HL from RVR & volvo (different turbine housing). 1 thing for sure the TD04HL does not share its rebuilt kit with the TD04L, its different size. I'm quite sure it is something...

Stock for the DSM auto would be the TD04L, TD04HL is stock turbo for JDM mitsu RVR. It has slightly larger turbine wheel than TD04L.

there is this kind of marking on all stock cams. Not sure what it signifies tho.

Happened to a friend on his HKS wastegate, turns out it was a weld sputter stuck in between the wastegate piston leaving it open all the time. By the way, if anything for sitting too long it would stuck shut instead of stuck open.

For launching, i would say go for QM..

Personal preference, some people want top end power, some wants low end response.

you wanna port the wastegate to reduce creep or better to go external. The 14b housing will fit just fine as it is, both are 05H turbine.

if you want faster spool, then use back the 14b hot side with the b16g. That will improve spool significantly, you will peak earlier tho but still better than with 14b.

Only evo 1-3 would be ok, evo 4-9 is different orientation.

yeah, not really a good advise but then if you are running more boost, you wont creep as less exhaust gas needs to be bypassed. So it cures the creeping issue in a way, as long your set up permits and get tuned for it.

also check your front drive shafts for sign of wear on the flexible joint, happened to me once (my car is FWD).

Wondering why you would want to go for a smaller compressor wheel then what you already have? Obviously a smaller compressor cover is required, otherwise it will be worse than a downgrade as the gap between the smaller wheel and your existing cover will hurt efficiency = inferior performance...

the easiest (on the wallet & to work on) would be to change the O2 housing flanged for external gates. recirculated or not is your choice to make.

FP manifold is surely the way to go if money is not a concern.

i think he meant the dowel pin for the trans mating to engine, not for the flywheel.

other then stiffer valve spring to handle its aggressive ramp rate, i dont see anything else.. Of cause you'll need a tune after the install.

i suppose an evo intake would work but u might need to get a 2G head so that it matches up.

I agree with what these guys is saying, information on the wiki is as credible or as dumb as the source.. Go thru the zillion of threads in here, it will be more information than it is necessary. Keep in mind that there are a lot of experienced / wise guys here that can correct any wrong info...

A very interesting read (just finished reading through from post #1). Congrats to Paul on the success & best of luck on the second setup.. This is really out of this world.

Hope this would help.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/52955-fastener-torque-values-merged-3-9-value-tightness-torques-specs-specifications-19.html#post151694582

There are a few differences, the easiest would be the wording on the side (if i'm not mistaken beside the CAS). 2g should write "G6K" while 1g head will have "20".

The preferred knock sensor would be the stock 1..

If there is any leak on the master cylinder, it would be more obvious on the firewall.. Overtime the paint will start to peel off after long exposure to the fluid.. By the way, i dont think its the throw out bearing, if it is then it would be grinding while the clutch pedal is pressed..

I say get it sorted out.. small leak can lead to a big leak later.

You dont need a dual valve spring setup for HKS 272, seriously overkill. An uprated single spring is more than enough.. Unless if u have plans for something like Kelford 280s later..

A new ECU from Mitsubishi is totally out of the question.. A new one From AEM is more like it.. ;-)

i dont think the smoke is due to the gasket. White smoke in the exhaust would usually point to bad valve seal or blown turbo. you will definitely still need to check on the thread of that bolt tho..

I dont have the AEM, using a different brand. Installation is pretty much as you mentioned + you'll need to wire up swithable power & ground to the meter. I would suggest to go for 0-150 especially if you have removed the balance shaft. On the pillar, it is OEM part so no problem to get it, just...

it might not be the best place for oil pressure reading, but if your gauge is functional and you see 0psi from there, i'll be worried about your turbo.