Thanks Tim. You free tomorrow? I was hoping to get this thing shipped out before I go on vacation Wednesday morning.Here's some more information that one of the Galant guys was able to provide:
Installed by Shep in July of 2006 in my FWD 3G 4-cyl. All he said is that it was a "Quaife-type" LSD. Long story short, the sun gear on the driver side is messed up and is stripping axles. I need ideas on where to buy a new sun gear or where I can send it to have it serviced. Thanks in advance!
This has nothing to do with drag racing, but is on-topic with the 4G64 discussion. I went to Sound Performance's open house a few weeks ago and decided to hop on their dyno. Still the same setup that I was running last fall at the drag strip, and she put down 298 whp. I was really hoping to...
CLT = coolant tempIn your case, it could also be the thermostat. Either way, if the CLT sensor is not reading full operating temp (because the coolant is too cold or because the sensor is bad), it will definitely hurt your gas mileage.
Sounds like a really rigged way of doing a cut-out. Do you think the extra 6" of pipe and one 90* bend you shave off would really be worth the hassle of opening and closing the TB with a cable? If your downpipe is mandrel, I can't see it making a huge difference
Really? I have a PTE 6152 journal bearing on my car. My oil feed line was leaking for the first ~800 miles, but 4 years later the turbo still spools quick and has absolutely no shaft play
First and foremost, make sure the MAF Translator is configured correctly via the dip switches. I had a friend that programmed his with the wrong MAF size and he couldn't get his car to run right for the life of him.
Like Absit said, you should also check your coolant temp sensor. Is your temp gauge going all the way to the middle once the car is fully warm? If not, your CLT sensor could be bad, causing your ECU to get stuck in open loop mode
This means that he replaced the capacitors on the circuit board in the ECU, as they're notorious for leaking after a number of years of service and causing bizarre problems.
There are no direct bolt-on kits that offer a complete solution, including tuning device, as far as I know. His best bet would be to snag a DSM manifold, turbo, and Evo 8 ECU, along with a Tactrix cable and EvoScan to tune with.Send him HERE and tell him to READYes
Technically, 11.84, with a built V6 and supercharger:1/4 Mile Leaderboard - Club3G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G ForumsHowever, there have been lots of guys with WAY more power than me (built 4G64s with 4G63 heads) that haven't posted times at the strip. Mine is just the fastest stock...
Nice choices Tyeler18. Those are some clean, respectable 3Gs and some of my favorites as well. I'm not really a fan of the OP's friend's car, but it looks like it's a work in progress and he could use some help:thumb: I don't know why people still think 3Gs are DSMs. As soon as Piku told me...
The V6s are junk. NA you can't expect much more than ~200whp with every bolt on and a tune. Boosted more than 10psi and the rods crumple like tin cans. They sound pretty nice though
Why would your friend waste his money on a supercharger when he could buy an Evo turbo setup for $500 and be faster?That was with an all stock junkyard 4G64 longblock. Nothing changed internally