If you are near sea level, then forget about timing on cali 91. I get about 10-12 degrees at about 19psi on a 20G w/ an A/F of 10.8.From looking at your log...I get a 70-90 time of 3.8-4.0 seconds. That's really slow. Are you doing tuning on a flat road?
disconnect the transfer case. then you need a load leveler. tilt the front of the motor up about 45 degrees so that the trans clear the engine bay. it comes out like butter.
The difference in this motor is it is a stock bottom end (I made sure to get a warranty w/ this one). However, I'm using the same head and bolt on mods.
Sorry guys. I didn't get to the Gt30 as the motor crankwalked before I had a chance. I just got a new motor in and literally took the first test drive today (500 mile break-in period). Unfortunately, I had to sell the GT30 to help cover some of my costs on the new motor. So until I can find a...
any 50 trim that was not from Garrett has had a high probability of failure on DSM's for some reason. I had two turbonetic ones fail in less than a month. In contrast, I've never had a mitsu fail on me.
Not very good. The track was packed beyond belief, so my runs were very limited (two good ones). To top it off, my 1g BOV decided to take a dump! It wouldn't release properly between shifts causing the engine to jolt/buck after every shift (mainly the 1-2 shift). It was so bad I couldn't drive...
I'm sorry but I have to disagree, I think the airflow is spot on. Here's another log. Its pretty impressive how close the boost est matches the GM3.3bar.With a stock 2g mas, you shouldn't need to adjust the airflow sliders if the system is setup properly (i.e no leaks anywhere).
We'll see what the track reveals as far as estimated power goes. Keep in mind this is on 91 pump as well. That's why I can't get timing up. Depending how the track day goes, I may do a couple of runs on 100octane.
I sorted out the fuel issue. It was real basic. The fuel pump needed the rewire to keep up. I've been driving the car the past couple of days to get some seat time w/ the 20G. For the most part, I love it! Driveability is much easier than with the evoIII. Because the evoIII spooled so damn fast...
Right. That's how I came to the conclusion that the injectors are doing what they should. The line to the AFPR is T'd into the GM3.3bar which is only 6-7" long. No splits there. So all indications seem to be pointing to a screwy AFPR.Thanks for the helpful insights.
CanadianTSI: You are possibly spot on w/ the injectors being 650cc's possibly. I considered that as well. See my post over on DSMLink questioning this:
DSMLink User Group ForumsI verifed by setting my settings to match 650cc's but could not get the LTFT lo-mid in line w/out major...
The evoIII logs have decent timing for 91 pump and the amount of airflow IMO (12-13 degrees timing by 7k RPM). Keep in mind I did not really tune those 20G logs because of the fuel issue, so I agree the timing is not where it should.What do you mean by better numbers (airflow?, timing?)...
I updated the original post but couldn't post the logs. Here are the first 20G logs. More to come after I sort out the fuel setup over the next couple of days.
Sorry for the delay, I ran into some issues after the 20G install. Somehow my exhaust was hitting the driveshaft, and then my battery took a hard dump. Brand new battery and realigned exhaust so I will be out tuning today. To answer some of your questions:The head is not ported but I did...
Okay, first let me start off by saying I decided to do this because (contrary to popular belief) there is not alot of "Hard/real/valid" results from people who have ran 20G's anymore. I guess no one really runs em or puts much effort behind them anymore. So I was about to install a GT3076R when...
Okay guys....I'm going to install a td06H 20g this weekend.I'll compare it against my evoIII 16g back to back and share the detailed results. Engine mods are:7 Bolt - 8.3:1 weisco/scat rods
FP2 Cams, BC Springs
SS valves
BSE
725cc InjectorsTuned w/ DSMlink, PLX-WB, GM3.3bar.
You are burning oil buddy.That's why your HC count is high. Two options - 1.) Put on a brand new cat and drive straight to the smog place 2.) Fix the burning oil issue (probably the turbo).
What about the butt dyno? Notcie any difference?Also, I pull about 40.1 lb/min w/ my old evo3 16g at about 21-22psi. But my timing or AFR ends up sucking so I can combat knock on 91 octane.
You guys are not thinking about what it takes to run a compressor at 55% efficiency. Generally, speaking you end up not being able to spin the turbo fast enough (too little energy at the TW) to even get to that point. At 55% efficiency you are basically wasting half the energy of the TW by...
You only need reasonable suspicion to pull over and detain/question, but to conduct a search of private property you need PC. At least, that's the way I understand it.
Or since its on a dyno, he can simply blow compressed cold air directly into the turbo inlet. That'll bump up horsepower!Obviously, something is up that's not quite on the straight and arrow.It amazes me that someone would post a dyno sheet showing that they broken records and...
Eaxctly. That's beauty of Probable Cause in court with these types of cases. If a cop says in court he asked to search because you have a "modified" car then he had better be able to prove that you have something illegal. Most cops take piss poor notes in these types of stops because no one...
Actually, any legal modification (i.e. exhuast, gauges, fmic) etc does not constitute PC. Learn the law buddy. However, will a cop still harass you?...YES. I've been there many times just because DWB. But the key is, fight it in court! And most likely you will win as an unlawful search (case...
You don't have to pop your hood. If you refuse, then they need probable cause to go in your car and conduct a search. Just an FYI. If they want to be dicks, jut be one back and make them work for it.Also, having an import car doesn't constitute probable cause.