I have a big 16g on my car and I am happy with it, personally. Go for the big 16g if you want something that is versatile and reliable and stay far away from a gi-normous turbos until you have all the extra mods needed. For larger turbos, you require the flow necessary to supply them.

Lower tire pressure=more traction but it has a vice, it affects your top end. Fwd cars(from what I have seen)do better as far as overall time if they don't have a super aggressive launch. Let me be clear before someone tries to crucify me on this: If you launch at a decent rpm range and don't...

I work at a stainless steel pipe facility that is ISO 9001:2000 certified and all of our welds are machine TIG welded and hand repaired using TIG. I say TIG but that is just my experience and I think TIG is pretty easy.

:ohdamn: I stand corrected: reaction time does not count although I though it did for whatever reason. But, launching does and practice makes perfect..'cept no one's perfect

16 is fast...in the Honda world, but it sounds to me like you aren't launching and/or shifting right or on time. And reaction time definitely plays a big role in your overall time. A t25 is a smaller turbo than even the 14b(stock 1g) and unless pushed to a higher boost level, will probably have...

Hopefully, no one is. Autos are great for drag and great in traffic, but if you like the wild side then they may not be for you. To each their own, in this case.

I will do that, thank you for your insight. I hope it isn't anything crazy. I checked her today and no mixing, little less fluid but she only smokes when you rev her...strange it isn't at idle as well. It is literally just the 2 to 3 seconds that I rev her that I cn see the smoke and you can...

Yes to the 50/50, doesn't sputter or misfire but almost dies and takes a sec to warm up. No long crank and it doesn't just smell like fuel unless I have driven it.I will have it tested asap for those things but I am still tearing the head off to redo all the gaskets/seals and timing belt...

Losing small amount of oil at the oil filter housing but not anything unaccounted for. Losing coolant but no leak. No mixing as far as I can see. I will check again to be sure later but I am 95% positive it isn't mixed. History is clean, 131,000 miles when I bought it, a few receipts for...

Hate to burst your bubble but most drag cars use auto transmissions, especially in local bracket racing. They use a reverse synchronizer and a stall converter...have been for some time now...Awesome for whoever runs sub 10s with a manual, they are very talented drivers and deserve the respect...

Okay, ladies and germs, here's the deal: Car had been running for about 15 minutes, normal operating temperature, I ran her up the road to the store and got back and was letting her sit and idle to cool down and saw some white smoke. I gave her a rev and on release of throttle there was a...

.Royal Purple and a quart of Lucas. 10w40 or 15w50 for this summer

...for the trouble, you could just rebuild the 6 bolt. 6 bolt is an overall better motor. Just my opinion though. Typically, people put a 6 bolt into a 2g, not the other way around.

Not unless it has barely been run like that. It may still be good with a full gasket kit, water pump and timing belt. But if you aren't down for that much work then I wouldn't bother.

Absolutely will. I used those instructions to make one(just a little differently) but yeah, works all the same man :thumb:

Agreed. Yet, I think the Evolution stuff deserves a smidgen more credit. A lot of people have made some great budget power on evo stuff. But, aftermarket parts are, in some cases, designed better for the application.

Lots of good stuff about clutch problems here --->http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/318224-varying-clutch-engagement-merged-1-9-bleeding-air-floor-stuck-grinding.html Best of luck man, hope you can figure it out. If I knew more about clutches, I'd try to help. But, alas, I do not.

To my knowledge you can use the exhaust manifold, 02 housing, turbo and a few others from the evo IIIs. 2g owners can use the evo 8 ecu with some modding involved. Pistons from the evo 8 or 9 are pretty common as well as the above statement pertaining to the fuel pumps. Some of the stuff is bolt...

I'd say you would do well to get a logger and go from there. That is, after you've done a boost leak test.

I don't know if you'd remember this but around 03 or 04 there was this kid Brad that had the 99 civic with lambo doors, shaved, neons and SHIIIIINY chameleon paint hehehehe. I was just in wilson not long ago to visit my mother but I didn't see anything too bad.

Woooooow...I lived in Wilson for years. Went to James B. Hunt Highschool, saw a lot of ricers there. This was around the time Fast and the Furious just came out lol

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/244522-injectors-fuel-pumps.html This should answer your fuel ans flow questions. And an AFPR is very necessary like these two people have said. Furthermore, 14.5psi is semi safe but until you've got an AFPR I don't suggest running...

^^^ what they said

Well that's almost exactly what I was on about ha ha. But, do you or anyone else have a photo step by step per the 90 model? Id like to see a few examples. I planned on just making a plate at work since I have access to tons of scrap stainless steel...buuuut, I do want to see a few more jb weld...

I am going to say that you are on the right track with this for sure. But, I don't know if it is necessary to seal the upper left either. I am going to block mine off when I go to rebuild the head but I am just making a blockoff plate at work. You can even make one out of a few soda cans if...

Mine is filthy as well...actually the previous owner apparently just didn't care what the interior or the engine bay looked like. Let me know how the cleaning goes, I'm about to go at mine(engine and interior) when I get the chance.

So, I take it that most of us are considering this a good mod? Albeit not a performance mod really but it simplifies things...and seriously, as far as the 4g63t goes: the simpler and less unnecessary crap, the better.

You're in great shape then. I plan on using a keydriver stage 3 with a 2 step and probably a safcII for added support if necessary. I'm just going for a simple daily driver that I won't have to mess with too much once it is set. I'll be using evo 560ccs in the future as well with a 190lph...

What do you plan to tune with? A lot of people have great tunes on SAFCs and dsmchips as alternatives to dsmlink.

That'd be a heckova leak. Could be your BISS is waaaaay out of whack I.e. busted o-ring etc. But, a boost leak test couldn't hurt and you'd be wise to check your isc while you are at it. Other than those things, my knowledge isn't in depth enough to assist you further unfortunately. Perhaps...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/244522-injectors-fuel-pumps.html I'm using my phone so sorry for the long link. But this will answer your question and probably some more of your subconcious queries about air flow lol

I believe I may just do a full rebuild if it all isn't too expensive. Thanks for the information

Just take your time...

Are replacement valves (not oe) cheaper? And will they work just as well or better? I'm kinda curious now lol

Stage 4 unsprung is about the only one I would suggest to anyone. ACT clutches explode just as fast SOMETIMES, if not faster in some cases

I am purchasing this clutch (the stage 4 unsprung 6 puck). May I please just state this simple fact: if you can't drive...you are, in most cases, the people saying it is junk and isn't worth 200 whole dollars...oh my...200 for a clutch that holds 500hp? Count me in, guys. If you want a name, buy...

Actually that sounds more like the isc or a leak. Maybe even the ecu but it seems from your picture that you are from a colder region so I would say that a high idle(via the fiav valve) is normal but, maybe not THAT high. Have you checked for leaks and tested your isc?

I will recheck, thank you. Another quick question: I am a novice at mechanics and have never done a rebuild before but I have the service manual and access to all the tools, should I attempt it on my own or send it off the first time?

Is there an in depth how-to on doing a head rebuild with step by step pictures? I've done numerous searches as I am in need of a rebuild, yet I have found nothing to my satisfaction. Perhaps I have overlooked an article? I have this thread bookmarked for when I do my rebuild.

Looks pretty cool. Not to be the stick in the mud, but did you use high-temp paint? It'll burn off if you didn't.

+1 to link. If you are looking to make 400whp+ then link is the way to go. Depends on what application your car will be used for and what your goals are.

If you are wanting a reliable car at all, you need to do all of the necessary maintenance first. When was the last time your timing belt and water pump have been changed or serviced? Have you checked for leaks, compression, boost leaks, etc? You know, I am not trying to be a thorn nor do I...

Well, you never said what injectors you had, but if they weren't too expensive then I would just replace them. Then later if you have any more problems you would have spares. That is merely another option than sending one off or trying this and trying that.

The TurboXS mbc has a plastic set screw in it that has a tendency to strip out and cause some nasty problems. I don't know this from personal experience but I was informed of this when I asked a friend his opinion about it(I had originally inquired about purchasing one)

15psi is a typical number thrown out there when this question comes up so that's what I'd go with(or just stick your line to the wastegate.) I don't know squat about tuning, so no opinion here. But, it sounds like you are up to a good start.

This was a conversation between me and 4 guys from MAINTENANCE at my work (I work in a stainless steel pipe facility, most of these guys build domestics religiously.) Maint.: Okay, well what stage turbo does your car have? Me: They don't come in stages, they come in sizes or trims really e.g...

I believe I will try it as long as everyone is convinced that it is turbo-safe. A lot of people have advised against its use in turbo cars but if there are this many success stories then I don't see the harm in a 1/4 of a bottle, right?

Can he get an amen?

Just because you replaced it recently doesn't mean it can't be bad again. Cars are fickle machines, when something breaks or malfunctions: it'll usually happen again in cases like this

To my knowledge, that seems a bit high for just hooking it straight to the j pipe.