Currently not any dyno numbers yet, I'm done with the tuning, boost by gear and boost by throttle position and I don't have any regrets choosing the above setup. The car above 4300rpm it's a monster, from my experience I feel the car is about 470-500hp on pump gas, but because of the limited...

With high impedance injectors you have to remove the resistor and connect all the wires together, you can find more info in the forum. Probably is your main reason the ECU couldn't drive the injectors but i think you should still be able to receive signal at the injector pigtail with the led...

You can do the test with a simple 12 volt bulb or a test light or an LED

Yes you should smell something. Your injectors should have battery voltage during cranking, start from there and if you don't have voltage during cranking it means there is an electrical or software issue.

You can listen/feel them if they ticking while cranking or you can attach a bulb to check if they receiving any current. Other way is to see if your spark plugs got wet after few revolutions of the engine or even see through the spak plug whole the top of the piston if it's wet. If you have...

From the sound of the engine i feel she needs fuel.. If everything is synchronized (ignition and mechanical timing) my next step is to check if the injectors are firing, if they do, next i would go to add more fuel during starting.

Yes, you can choose it in the setup wizard.

Playing with the 4th gear and the boost control, 28 psi boost at 4900rpm WOT, ignition at 7 degrees.

Is better to describe exactly what you already did so you won't get answers with the same things and also to see if you did it correctly

Yes, I can't wait to finish with the tuning, the really funny is that the car is FWD, without a 3-step traction control the 3rd gear spins like my 2nd when i had the 20g.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/borg-warner-s257xe-7670.542927/ here will be any more info

Following my thread https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/bolt-on-turbo-recommendation.534633/ i want to post here my experience, information and the results from this turbo.Currently I'm still road tuning and because I don't spend a lot of time for the car it will take few weeks for the end...

I know the Series 2 is an old platform but many people still using it, at least i am and i still like it. I want to provide some information that I haven't seen nowhere else and i know many still have a bit of a hard time to tune the idle.Below you see some measurements I did with different...

I tuned with AEM V2, MaxxECU, Link and SimTek. Personally i have a plug and play AEM V2 for my GVR4 engine and i love it because it can do what i need. I dont say AEM is better than the others but because it is on my car I got more familiar with it. My advise is if you gonna keep the car for...

Just to be sure, did you check if the wires going to the correct ignition coil? It happens to me once when i was in a hurry during an engine installation.

I think the sensor you need for that gauge is the Greddy 16401302.

So far so good, i got the car in the street today with street tyres, i did some accelerations with 2nd and 3rd, hard braking and accelerate again, some fast cornering and some zig-zag test and wasn't any drop in oil pressure. Maybe that doesn't say much but I will keep you updated if i take the...

Finally after a lot of trial I just i figured it out! In AEMdata when you analyze an internal ECU log, in my case AEM series 2, if you log channels ADCR the AEMdata just shows the voltage. If you want that voltage to convert it to a unit you can do it using the Math. Me i have a pressure sensor...

Does anyone know how to use the Lookup tables in AEMdata maths? I want to convert a Voltage to temperature and the graph is not linear so I can't use just a formula. I created a table with the data voltage/temperature but i can't figure out how to use it to the maths.

You are not suppose to torque the bolts in order to have to correct clearance, if you torque the bolts as manufacturer instructions and your clearance is out then the problem is elsewhere.What part number rods do you have? Which lube did you use? How did you check the oil clearance?Maybe...

As i know F5M have the same oil seal both sides, driver and passenger side, part number MD707184, inner diameter 35mm outside diameter 56mm.

Getting there slowly! Probably this weekend the first start! Large 19mm oil return, oil feed from OFH with oil pressure sensor at the OFH and before the turbo but after the turbosmart oil filter.

Actually i searched a lot before i decided for the borg warner and i was the opposite than dissapointed, i didn't find exactly results on s257, but i found one on s258 that made 445whp@23psi on pump gas and Steve93Talon 1g dsm again with S258 turbo, 30psi stock motor, pump gas 457whp/421tq with...

Pump gas? Can you give more info about the engine setup?I'm staying at 150-200 feet above sea level, with the borg warner matchbot at their website, with the .83 AR housing, it shows that the compressor can flow efficient around 60lbs. I don't how accurate is that but even with 480whp I will...

Finally i decided and i bought a used Maperformance t3 manifold and a new Borg Warner S257XE 7670 with single scroll T3 AGP .82 A/R housing. I have to weld a v-band for the tial mvr 44mm and when everything is ready i will post how everything goes, boost, spool etc.

Was the 3071 with VP racing gas, manifold wasn't the Maperformance. The car had power until 7000rpm. That was like 6 years ago, wasn't dynojet and i can't guarantee how accurate was that number but it showed 601whp. Anyway im not here to proof something, not my car i really don't care, i just...

The manifold is made from Maperformance, the turbo is in good condition, i know the car where was installed before and the guy upgraded for something larger, on his car with stock cams did 601whp with race gas, he had 20psi at 4300rpm

So better to go with something smaller? I have an opportunity to buy a used tubular t3 manifold with a used Garrett GTX3071 with undivided .63 A/R t3 housing for 1200 dollars

The max i can get with my setup and pump gas but anything around or more than 500whp I will be satisfied. It would be nice also to see full boost around 4500-5000rpm.

2.0 long rod, 8.8 CR, ported head, standard size valves, kelfords 272, ID1000 injectors, walbro450, AEM series 2. Currently i have a td05-20g with billet compressor wheel and 9 blade turbine wheel. I want to upgrade to something bigger with more top end power. The car is FWD running only on...

If it was sitting for 4 years i would clean the flywheel, spray some wd40 inside the cylinders from the spark plugs holes, turn it few times and do a coolant flush like dustyboner said.

Any criticism is welcome, this is something that i didn't test it yet and I agree with you in the case when you have a "cup" around the pick up, if you notice what i did is that I left enough space under the baffle so any oil that will come from any direction will still fill up the oil pan like...

I don't think so because the baffle isn't going all the way down to touch to bottom of the pan, the purpose is to not let the oil to jump around very easy at sudden forces, similar like a baffle in a gas tank, at least this is how I'm thinking of it. Anyhow i will update this post as soon as...

Here is a simple oil pan baffle that will help to keep the oil around the pick up tube specially at sudden turns, acceleration and deceleration. I don't think will be any good at long turns where the oil will have enough time to escape but sure is better than nothing, is cheap and easy to...

Did anybody else wondered what is the purpose of this piece of gasket that just hanging between the block and the front case? I thought removing it would help a bit the flow in to the pan.

The scary thought is in case that i didn't have a stretch gauge and went only by the instructions that i had in hand from 2010 the bolts wouldn't be stretched enough.. a stretch gauge is a must! BTW 2 times I had the engine rev 10300, 10500rpm accidentally and the things stayed together, i...

Yes these.

Yes but wasn't any problem with the above. And the stretch was consistent for all 8 bolts.

DSMPT, you are right. The installation instructions that came with my rods are from 2010, i just found on their website that they updated the instructions at 2017 with Manley lube and updated again at 2020 with ARP lube.

The lube i used is exactly the one that says on the installation instructions, the one that came WITH the rods. Check the first picture. And for those bolts clearly specifies 45-50ft/lbs. Probably the difference because of the temperature... Both times was about 70-75 F.

Just some info for you guys. Manley I beam rods with 3/8 ARP 2000 bolts and 40172 lube (loctite heavy duty anti-seize). Manley recommends to tighten the bolts 45-50 ft/lbs in order to stretch the bolts 0.0058"-0.0062". When first i rebuild my engine about 2 years ago in order to stretch the...

My goal wasn't to have a non DSM piston in my DSM engine :) The reason i ended up with this situation is because i wanted a good off the shelf piston with good features, 0.866" pin and for a long rod engine, 0.06" over bore and a dish volume at about 12cc, that's the 669M piston. From the...

:) yes we say the same thing, what i didn't understand is why should be a problem. Right now in my engine the wider skirt is on the major side, so this is how it should be. The same goes and with the offset pin, it is towards the major side as well, opposite of the rotation of the engine, so the...

Yes something like this could be. Probably my timing was too much but with good fresh fuel didn't knock but with a bad quality fuel didn't need a lot to detonate. BTW the bad happened at 5000 rpm, where i have max torque. In previous logs at that point i usually have about 24 psi boost and 8...

Dont get me wrong but i still dont agree. When you see the piston from the front side, the side where should be towards the timing belt in an EVO engine, it has the wider skirt and the inlet reliefs on the left, the same goes with the pin, it is offset towards the left side of the piston, the...

Was cylinder #2, i'm almost 100% was the fuel because i didn't find something else, for 2 years i had the car with the same tune and everything was fine, knock, temperatures etc. few times i even checked the pistons with a camera and regularly i inspected the spark plugs because i was using only...

i don't agree with you, maybe i didn't explain good. The piston right now in my engine has the wider skirt where it should be, at the major thrust side which is the exhaust side, and the narrow skirt at inlet side. So the skirts are in correct sides, same goes with the offset of the pin. What is...

Hi all, I want to share some useful info with you guys.Last year I had a bad batch of fuel and I melt a piston. My engine is a 6 bolt, 2.0 long rod with 9.4:1 compression, custom JE pistons 0.02” overbore and 272 kelford cams. The car was running great for 2 years at 26 psi boost with 93...

My car is a Mitsubishi Lancer with a vr4 ECI 92' engine and a complete vr4 harness. My next step is to put ECMlink V3 on it and also remove MAS. As i know to configure the ecm is through OBD... the problem is that my obd has only two pins in it.... is that normal?? also i found another two...

I forgot to mark solved... That problem finally had nothing to do with the ignition timing, the problem was with the spark plugs, i moved from 6ES to 7ES and the different was very noticeable, it seems that the combustion at high rpm wasn't very good.