Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone knows where I can buy a set of exhaust studs for my turbo. I have a 97 Talon TSI running a header. My turbo blew and I got a new one but it did not come with the studs I need to bolt it to the header or to the 02 housing. Using the old ones is not an...
Ok here is the info, I am running a set of AEM Tru-Time Cam gears I got from a friend that I traded rims to on my 97 Talon TSI. My Question is what is the best setting for them? I had to set them both to 5* advanced for everything to be set at TDC. Is this bad or good? The car runs fine except...
Ok so I picked up a 7 bolt block off a guy that told me its ready for a 2.3 stroker build. He is a reliable truthful person and I have dealt with him before for other stuff, but my question is this: Why does this 7 bolt have a crank gurdle like a 6 bolt and not caps??:confused:
See thats just the problem. I dont know if it was ever rebuilt, for all I know the thing could have been rebuilt. I drove almost 10 hours to get the car off a used car dealer in Kentucky. Im in PA, didnt get any info about the car at all. Except they bought it at auction. I mean the fluid that...
But the problem I im having believing that its the syncros is this: The fluid that came out of the trans was thicker than the stuff I put back in. Thats why I am thinking its the fluid. I bought the car used and dont know what was fixed/replaced before I got it.Im sorry the link didnt work...
Ok, I know this sounds like another thread about fluid in the NV-350T Trans but its not and I really need input on this. So my car is a 97 GS. This morning I drove it after trying a bunch of different things to try to get it to shift right. I found out that my syncro's for 1st thru 3rd may be...
It is an OEM clutch. But I think I may have found the problem. Finally, I lengthened the rod a 1/4 inch and tried it, Got nothing from it. Same results as before so I said screw it and drove it around the yard to warm the trans up. Same thing as before grinds. So I took it around the block and...
Well I did it one time and not planning on doing it again. I was lucky, very lucky. And the car is definitely not stock. I have a few mods. But like I said I was lucky and am not planning it again. It was a little scary driving at those speeds anyway. Ill stick to the drag strip for high speed...
Maybe my tach is screwed up up my car idles at 1500rpm, and maybe its reading wrong, I dont know but I was proud when we saw 150. I know my speedo is right because its been set with a computer through the ecu. But anyway besides the belt snapping for the shafts why would high rpm be bad when you...
What exactly do you mean by stop lying and read up on wind resistance, im sorry to say but there were 2 other people in the car with me as well, and what does wind resistance have anything to do with balance shafts? Please clarify
Thats what I think as well, just because the car itself is moving 150mph doesnt mean thats what the shafts are going at. They will only be going as fast as the 5000rmp's will allow them. Im not sure at what rmp it is exactly but I think the balance shafts move twice as many turnas as the crank...
Ok I understand the simpleton terms, another friend told me to do this. I dont think that there is any problem with the trans because it was fine until the clutch went. I will try to put something on there and see what happens. If this fixes it is there any way to order a longer shaft for the slave?
Ok so here is the story. I just got finished breakig in my engine and was wondering what it could do as far a speed. So me and my friend took it on a hell run and did 150mph. Nothing went wrong at all, not a single problem. So I was talking to another friend of mine and he told me that its not...
Yes I checked the system for leaks and for air, I pressure bled it for about a half an hour and no air at all. Went through a whole bottle of dot 3. The fork didnt seem bent it looks like the one in the picture, I am leaning towards the master not being adjusted correctly. It goes in gear if you...
Hello everyone, the problem with the bearing I was having is resolved but the car is doing the same thing as before just not as bad. I have replaced the slave cylinder twice and the master once, as well as the clutch, TO bearing and adjusted the master. I still can not get it to go in gear...
So i didnt buy the bearing, the clutch kit was under warranty so i replaced the whole thing. Gonna get out here soon and freeze my ass off in the november cold dirt to put this bastard in.
I wish he would, that would save me the headache of doing it but to get him off the xbox is an act of god. LOL Anyway im getting ready to start tearing it out or at least back far enough to take the fork off and slip it over or around the bearing. I will let everyone know how that works for me...
I put 2 new slaves on it and the same issue with both. I think that the reason for this is because when you pust the clutch in the slave is extending more than it should because the for is not attached correctly. Im going to pull the trans back tomorrow and put the bearing on the right way this...
Ok so the guy that told me it just sits there was incorrect, i see that now. Thank you for the pics and for clarifying it all for me. As for the fork, can you remove it without pulling the trans and if so how exactly? I really appreciate all the help you all are giving me. And as for the person...
But the diagram in the Haines repair manual does not show that there is a clip. There was no clip on the old bearing when I removed it, and even the installation part of the manual does not say a single word about a clip. I know the fork has a clip to hold it to the ball, but the bearing does...
Ive had the car for 3 years now, and the fork is seated properly onto the pivot ball. as for the TOB the old one was just sitting on the shaft not attached to the fork at all. So I figured that its one of those free travel ones. My dad is a mechanic and he said thats what it is. Im not sure but...
I have also tried this. Spun it both ways and didnt make a difference. But thanks for the suggestion anyway. I should have said I tried that in the first post
Hello everyone, I am trying to figure out why my car is grindiing when putiing it into gear. I replaced the clutch, TOB, master cylinder, and slave cylinder. I have bench bled the master and gravity bled the master and slave, and also pressure bled them as well. It almost feels like the damn...
Ok so here is the dillema. I replaced a bad clutch in my 97 GS 420a, Now I can not get it to shift without a grind unless its into reverse. I cannot get a good pedal when bleeding it at all. I replaced the master, the slave, and the clutch and TOB. Checked for leakes and there are none. Bench...
Make sure that when you put the seal on the bottom of the injector you lube it up just a bit. And do the same for the head. If this is still a problem check the head where the seal fits into. There may be dirt or debris in it causing a bad seal.
I like the fact that fwd turboed cars are quick from a roll but if you dump the clutch they just spin. I honestly like burning rubber but my 17 inch toyo proxies arent cheap so im glad i got awd.
I have 3rd gen lifters in my car, its a 2g and the only difference I noticed is the tick is gone away almost completely. I got mine from DSM Graveyard. They werent too bad of a price.
If you wanna try go for it. But it will be very difficult. I've seen my younger brother take tractor and snow blower parts and make a gas powered posi barbie jeep with a plastic shell. It could probably be done but who knows until it's tried. And yes I do have a pic of the jeep. The pic is in my...
Dont waste your money on the gst even though it's turboed it's not worth all that trouble fixing all that crap for a fwd. Save your cash and get a gsx or tsi.
My check valve was missing and my brakes did the same thing. Now that I have a valve on place it works better but not great. The rear calipers are hanging up and the brakes still crappy but I gotta get a new power brake booster to fix that. Once a booster gets boost it is junk.
Yeah that hole is for oil to pump through
down to the line and into the turbo to keep the bearing lubes up. I think that the could have used a stronger type of material for the bolt but who knows.
When I took my head off the first time it was right after I got the car I went to pull the bolt out and it broke. Snapped right off, luckily enough of it was sticking out to unscrew it without damaging anything else. It was weird because it started to come out then it broke off. This is not the...
There is a tech article that explains how to block off the EGR and how to eliminate the FIAV as well. But back to the problem of it idling better when the valve cover is off. That is because when you take it off you creating a vacuum leak so it idles faster. My car did this for a while so I...
That bolt is for oil to get to your turbo. I'm not sure of the actual name but in PA we call it a banjo bolt or the turbo oil feed bolt. Hope this helps.
Its not very hard to do. You will just need to pay attention to a manual or tech article but is a pain in the a$$. Especially if you do them while the heads on the block inside the engine bay. Of it's off it's a lot easier to work worn and takes less time except you have to tear the head off and...
I had a boost leak at my fuel injector. The o-ring that goes around the fuel injector was cracked and was suckin air into the head. I would have never found it without a boost leak test.
All I have to say is WOW!! I've seen some dumb stuff but that's really dumb. But it looks a lot better now. And the headlight problem is fixed or still does it??