I been going to the shootout for 9ish years now and been following his YT. Had multiple conversations via IG. I had the pleasure of meeting him I believe 2 years ago. He was so genuine and nice.Put cheese on it!
I been making a decent amount of progress in this. My next problem I'm having is with the mounting of the headlights and how to get the body lines.Was curious what you guys thought about this and the best way to proceed.
Little update picture. But I have some questions about the front tube and front motor mount. I don't really like the north/south bar being above the front tube. Does that seem odd to yall? Since I was going to use a jack pad and tow hook on the north/south bar, that needs to be below? Is there...
You dont reccomend the angle of the front tube or front mount? I realize with the front tube pointing straight down, it frees up so much room in the corners around the marker lights and I can pretty much build as I want.Are we welding nuts to the back of the plates to make this removable or...
I spoke with him on the phone today for a decent bit of time. He was saying pretty much what you did about it being a base kit. He said the front tube is meant to point down. I personally not a fan of that. But I think thats because I have the OEM geomety in my head. Since the kit doesnt have...
I found out about all the NDD stuff after purchase. However, I will say the only downside of the purchase is how long it took to get the items. I actually wasnt sure if I was ever going to see them. However, I was compensated extremly well for the inconvience.However, he is the only one that...
His help most of the time is "your fab guy should be able" He is really the only one selling a kit like this. Im assuming im going to have to build the mount off the bar. Im just trying to possibly learn and see how other people solved some of these unknown issues.
Im having a hard time figuring out the north/southbar setup and how it it supposed to be based on his kit. The last 3 pics are from his sources. If you buy his tube front end, the front mount is on the lower tube. If you buy his subframe, the mount is on the north/south bar. It seems as if the...
Its been while since I posted a car update. I decided to tidy up some things. I made a unit to hold two gauges in place of the ac knobs. I also put my gear display in as well. Also made a body for my switch panel. At least it looks more professional.
I figured I would add to some of this. I was also having a hard time sealing the pan. I actually installed studs for the pan and valve cover. Not sure if it helped or not.For the sealant I personally like the right stuff that sets fast. However, most/some sealants say to hand tight the bolts...
I went to start the car up with the nice weather (been regularly maintained in winter) and the car would crank and wouldn't start. I then continued to crank the car and get a CEL for a crank sensor. I cleared it and it would just come back after continued cranking.I replaced the sensor with a...
I had a similar issue when installing my bar. I had to enlarge the front holes a tad. However, I am a 2g with a 6 bolt bottom and auto trans. As already mentioned above about the different mount options. My mounts are the avid solid mounts (not 75a poly i think is the name?) which could of been...
I actually never measured my solenoids. But I did try the AEM solenoid as well as a cheap clone off amazon and got same results. I am running mine in link. I am not a fan of the tru boost controller. In my opinion, it easier to control and dial in via link. I was actually maxing out my turbo in...
Yep, the problem ended up being bad OEM coils which is rare. I actually had 2 that were bad which were my spares. We got a tool from OEM Tools that tested spark stress. Its like 10 bucks. Upon testing we were able to see that the coil was actually arcing slightly. Im not sure if it was bad...
Look like your global fuel is off. Its asking for a fuel. I believe the global should be -51 to -55 range. Then repeat idle process. I cant provide much input as far as the lean when letting off. But aside from the global being off, are you sure your narrowband sim switch point is correct. I...
I been using 200 nozzle snd 60 bed temp. If I turn up the speed, I'll bump nozzle to 205.So it seems to print fine when printing with a raft. I haven't had it fail yet. The raft takes a bit long. Can I change the thickness or how big the raft is?However, printing with a brim or nothing...
That brings up some other questions I have as well. I can adjust the speed on the printer and in cura. If I set a speed in cura, does the speed on the printer work? Seems better just to leave cura at 100 and adjust via the printer. I do have the tune tab and the z adjust. Im not sure if I have...
My apologies. I didn't realize i never explained. Basically, I couldn't get anything to adhere to the bed. I was using a glass bed mainly. Also using the creality pla that came with the printer. I have successfully printed some things on rafts. With the raft, the adhesion is great. But without...
So I have printed 4 small things successfully after going to a .004 gap. I also print using a raft. It will fail without the raft. Is this supposed to be my permanent settings? Is there like a trial and error chart?
I just picked up some feeler gauges and will redo. I did relevel it with a piece of paper and ended with the same result. I did try and print the level thing, but cant get anything to work successfully. I just leveled at .005 at 60ms,60 bed temp, and 205 nozzle temp. The test print failed...
So I have a gcode that I found and moves the machine over each leveling point multiple times. I am just using a credit cart to measure the gap. I might try printing on painters tape. Never heard of that yet. I did try the glue and hair spray and it doesnt work.
Im hoping we have some 3d printer people on here. I have got the ender 3 v2 and cant get anything to adhere. I have got 3 things to actually print but even if I try to reprint the same thing that was successful, I cant pinpoint the cause of my issue. I have leveled it many times even right...
So based on what you just said, error correction is used if your surging or spiking then? My theory was to try and set my boost target for a given rpm, then see how much error correction it does. Then add or subtract that error correction from the current duty cycle. Is that not the right way...
Ya, the snow just came down where im at.I'm slowly getting the hang of it but was hoping for input from auto guys. Mainly about how to combine data from dsmlink and work with the tcu. I want to know kind of a step by step on how to go about tuning so all I got to do is mash the throttle at...
Those links are very good and helpful. Those links are if im actually at the point of trying to control boost. I feel confident in my ability to do that aspect of it. My issue specifically is related to automatic transmission. I copied this from the wiki. If I understand, I need to use the...
I been trying to dial in the boost control table as I got my trans shifting better now via rpm. When I click the help icon, it says for autos, use the latest speed raw value. Am I supposed to change the gear ratio in the DA tab to match what latest speed is for the raw value? It seems like when...
If you are wanting 400whp, on a stock motor, which is pushing the limits, you don't get that by putting cheap parts on. A small 16g wont get you there. You could look in the classified on here and look for a 20g setup. I had a 20g, very fun all around turbo. You could look into a VRSF...
You'll need bigger injectors, turbo, and all supporting mods including dsmlink. You'll want to do all preventive maintenance like timing welt, waterpump, and ect to keep everything new.In my opinion, 400whp isn't easily obtained with a stock motor. My stock motor spun a bearing around 370...
Not sure if this is the correct spot for this. But doesn't anyone know of a aftermarket transmission pan that is still available? I heard of someone makes one, but not sure how to get a hold of him.
There is also the generator relay (not a relay) that I believe factory location is by your oem boost solinoid. I believe. That wire runs under your rad support. They all kinda go together. I'll try and find my manual in the morning to give more accurate information. I actually never worried...
Is this issue all of a sudden? After you start it, could you keep it running? Just post a log and I'll check it out when I got time. Without a isc, the car should still run.
I have tried 3 different tires. The Falken azinis. They are decent but not the greatest. Got them on sale. Tread last a decent amount of time. Aired down they grip ok on the street.Second set was the toyo r888. They grip great. Tread wear is much worse compared to the Falken. These are a...