cheap results, that's how i see it. that front mount was wasted before i filled it. not an issue now.

5/8 bolt and window weld for solidity in the front mount :laser:

i've been asked for these many times, finally got them up. might be able to answer some questions for the potential swappers.i have a video of it running on myspace. search me up "[email protected]"

flowbenches are a good tool to work with but i don't have access to one at this time. i know you can make them also but i've got many other things on my plate right now.

all work done with the dremmel and flex shaft. :laser:

yep, i've tried numerous times to get on there to no avail.

checking to see if anybody's interested in getting a house in the sunrise area for building purposes. i'd like to see what kind of production could come out of a few knowledgeable dsmers under one roof. i tried posting on sac-dsm also but it must be down for maintenance or something... ...

there is a kid on 2gnt running a 95 neon "mopar performance" computer. he said he lost a/c and p/s but it does not have an egr circuit (blockoffs=no cel :thumb:) and it disregards the downstream o2 sensor-gut the cat....chris

i have some info for you guys venturing into 2.4 land. i am also in the swap process and the stock 2gnt mount WILL work, it just needs modification. 2 of the 3 bolt holes line up. for the 3rd, cut, add aluminum spacer plate, and reweld the mount to fit the odd hole on the 2.4 block. you will...

my ideal setup would be a custom ground set that was specifically designed for the turbo i'll be running. that would sweet...but i'm not "there" yet. maybe someday :thumb:

from what i hear these are perfect for the street on a 2.4, due to the nice broad torque curve. and, the crower 3's are more difficult to tune on the 2.4. that's just what i've heard though. i'd have to buy a set to know for sure...trust :laser:

hey bud, if you seriously want to see power out of this car, then the 2.4 swap is the only way to go!! from the mod list you posted it does look as if you're going for the gusto. it's really not that hard and the benefits you'll see will be much more substantial than what can be done with the...

from what i've read, crower 3's and turbo don't go together. crower 2's and turbo or crower 3's n/a and nos...trust

do i hear 2.4 swap anyone??? :laser:

could us n/t guys see a benefit from running a sprayer setup under our intake manifold and up the length of the intake tube? i understand there is quite a difference between n/a intake temp and turbo intake temp but even still, cooler air is cooler air, right?? also, with the addition of a turbo...

allrighty then, i pulled out the speed sensor again to find the yellow gear off it's race again. :cry: so, tomorrow night i'll be droppin' tranny... once again. i think it would be wiser to install the sensor in two halfs, the bottom half first to align with the yellow gear and the hole that...

i've heard the pt cruiser tranny has a bit more torque than our and is a good upgrade for us 2gnt's. something to think about...trust

okay, round two. i had a guy at the local race shop get me the shim and put the tranny back together. i finished putting it back in the car last night and it still doesn't work. i took the speed sensor back out and rolled the car to ensure it is moving, and it is. i took the bottom half of the...

i'm about to do a headswap and i was wondering if there is any benefit to getting the srt4 hg. is it rated for more boost than the stock mls? also, is the cheapest place to buy crower springs and titanium retainers at summit? i was quoted 269.00 plus 9 bucks for shipping. if there is a better...

im workin on a 95 gs, and the yellow ring that runs my speed sensor somehow fell itself off of its race. so i was told to just pull the bellhousing off and stick it back on. i did that and now the bellhousing wont line back up. the three shift linkage posts that set inside of the b/h wont go in...

hey bud, my issue is this: my upper ball joints have been bent down by the inner fenderwell and are knocking everytime i hit a bump, so I know I have to replace those real soon. But I want to get this done correctly the first time so I don't have to keep f-n with it. I'd like to spend my time in...

do u have the spc link?? thanks for the help bro....trust

hey fellas, my issue is this: my upper ball joints are hitting the under side of the fenderwell and has bent them down, of course now they're ruined and they knock anytime i hit a bump. i've been reading through the threads and am finding some conflicting info. i have the ingalls camber kit...

Hey bud, I am very interested in this swap and am gathering as much info as I can to prepare. As for the "swap kit", I heard a couple talking about it but nothing has materialized as of yet. The pass mount that is pictured above will not work on our cars, for what reason I don't know just yet...

Hey tito, thanks for posting all those links!! Interest in this is growing!! trust

i took my car to the dealer and they told me the ecu was bad, so i got another one from the graveyards. i put it in and immediately through a code 36 (on a 95nt). i looked that up as an obsolete code for the recall from 96 of the pulsed secondary air injection. (??) so, is this something that...

i requested that tech article about a month ago. i haven't seen a write up yet though. probably due to the really low # of actual participants. we should set up a seperate forum like the "n/t to turbo conversion" thread, spark some more interest. maybe?? ...trust

that's all i get. 1-2-5-5 but i still have the cel. i'll get a code reader from autozone this weekend and see if i can pull something else out...trust

allright man, here's the deal, i retimed (or so i thought ) on sat and this is what i get. the car ran great for a full day...no cel! but after completing the job, now the speedometer doesn't work. i don't see a fuse blown anywhere either. there is one 10amp under the drivers dash for "gauges"...

thanx for the offer bro, but if i were to go that route i'd rather just fly dude out here. 150 bucks on southwest and that still beats the 400 mitsu wanted, haha. anyway, i should be able to get it this time, i followed the chilton manual and it says to turn the crank one half tooth counter...

yeah i've found that out the hard way. i think i'll need an extra set of hands to hold the cams. :confused: try and try again, eh...trust

hey all, quick question, is there a trick to getting the timing perfect on our motors? i did mine and swore i had it right but it was a tooth off. i took a rubber band and strapped across the two cam bolts so i was certain i had it straight. then i strapped the belt on from the oil pump, passed...

has anyone came up with a design for this yet? i heard there is a two piece design but i would love to see some pics and maybe even get some specs...trust

he needs to get the afx-udp. that's the best starter mod. 60mm tb is the biggest they make for the 420a. don't port the head more than a gasket match. make sure he doesn't smooth out the intake side out too much either, otherwise the fuel won't mix properly. i made that mistake already. don't...

i put in a request for a tech article about this swap. hopefully we can aquire some interest...trust

this feat has only been accomplished by a few great 2gnt's but seems to have quite a bit of potential. with the recent addition of the srt4, this swap could be the next jump to keep us in the runnings. i'd like to see detailed instructions for correcting the crank timing, injector re-wiring, oil...

some issues with swapping to a 2.4 are the pass mount has to be custom fab'd, injectors have to be rewired, oil pan has to be molested for the exhaust to run underneath it, hood clearance is a problem due to the extra inch of deck height on the 2.4, and the crank timing has to be fixed also...

actually, yes, it has been done by the1bill & motofool from this site and a couple others from the 2gnt site. they say it creates 22% more displacement but is a pain in the a$$. a few issues are: hood clearance, the 2.4 is an inch taller than the 2.0 and the valve cover hits the hood. the pass...

order it from bob kise at fenton dodge in michigan. they go for wholesale and only takes about a week to get to ya...trust

hey, if you guys want shirts, i found a guy that makes them. gotta have a min of 25 orders to print. i'll find out how much per shirt if there is enough interest. let me know...trust

crane cams come in stages also, they are numbered 10,12,14,& 16 or something like that. i hear they are good....trust

if you are going after acceleration, don't get that tb just yet. wait until you get cams for that. if you get it now you will lose alot of torque. your top end will be better but the first three gears will be alot slower...trust

nah, it's not those. the white connection that is snipped off is right by the purge solenoid (#50) with two black wires coming out, it's rectangular. and my purge solenoid has one vacuum line that runs off the top and is not connected to anything. i wish i had a digicam to show you. the line is...

the piece i am refering to is located right by the purge valve. i have a white rectangle connection with two black wires comming out of it (snipped) and there is a small vacuum hose coming off the purge valve that's connected to nothing. also i have a two prong connection that is by the power...

holly sh!tballs batman!!! i just found out that i'm missing the electric egr transducer solenoid, completely. could that be giving my code?? my car was hit in the passengers front and fixed before i bought it. i have two electrical connections that are cut off. will i damage anything if keep...

yeah, i bought the sensors and swapped them. didn't clear it but it does run better. throttle response is deffinitely alot better! still got the light though. (?) i will take it to the dealer next week when i get the recall done. i can take the sensors back. i did take another look at the code...

i admit i did leave out some pieces of this puzzle. actually the cel was on before my rebuild. i hadn't told you that. i assumed that it was an o2 sensor because when it came on i did the normal "pull over & inspect with a fine toothed comb" but found nothing. engine temps never changed, there...

the code reader i looked at was for chrysler, dodge, and jeep. it also had a year window on it. something like 84-97 (don't remember exactly) but i am certain it was obd11. it looked really generic though and coupled with the "except lasor & talon" is why i didn't buy it. i will find for a...

first off, thanks for the help gents! secondly, as far as resetting the pcm, do you have to have the motor fuse out for a certain amount of time like the ecu? and what does this accomplish? is it just procedural after engine rebuild also? with the timing, i was under the assumption that if the...