hell yeah dude glad you found the problem! not a bad deal at all for $500! my friends mom had a Plymouth vista mini van I wanted for the longest to swap a 4g63t into! man just think how awesome of a sleeper your car would be! but nevertheless your car is running so why not just let it run
Dudes...........it's been a WHILE and my car still does not run. I am contemplating just replacing the under the hood harness and maybe the ignition module (the thing on the firewall that causes no starts). Anyone else agree that this is a good decision? I have strayed far away from the dsm...
I always try a jack under it for about and hour of lowering and manuvering. Then i get pissed and man handle it into place. Reach over the fender and grab that thing.
Maybe a blown turbo seal? Causing oil to gather in the intake and blown out with the blowoff valve? Idk if that is even possible. Probably not need better pics
Better yet do a search on here. This has been beaten to death. Not sure if a certain part will swap? Search on here and you will find out and if not i bet theres a breakdown on how to make it work.
Check this out http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CFQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fstore.forcedperformance.net%2Fmerchant2%2Fgraphics%2Fnews%2FForced%2520Performance%2520Recommendations%2520for%2520Motor%2520Oil.pdf&ei=cRAeULTXFKLw0gGMxoD4Dw&usg=AFQjCNHNvHAYsC6vN6QmDU2XvDK9OIb6TwIt...
Hell yeah man slap some fiberglass on the inside of that bad boy and resin the cracks in. Should do fine. I wouldnt use anything but fiberglass tho. Bondo and jb weld will most likely flex and crack.
Hell yeah man slap some fiberglass on the inside of that bad boy and resin the cracks in. Should do fine. I wouldnt use anything but fiberglass tho. Bondo and jb weld will most likely flex and crack.
Did you make sure your valve stems were propperly locked with the locking cups? Maybe one bounced off and bent. Or worse your timing was off and ruined the head.
You"ll always be taking a chance on a motor until you do these things. Drop the pan and every rod cap and crank cap (6 bolt). Check the bearings for wear. While ## in there check out the cylinder walls. Secondly, compression test, this will tell u a ballpark estimate on the rings head gasket and...
Another helpful tip is after you tension it, rotate the crank 1/2 turn counter clockwise. This puts the slack on the tensioner, then re-tension the belt.
Haha go granny go. And to the guy asking about the penny in the drain tube....alot of people like to block off the drain hole and use copper spray gasket. Alot even use bouncy balls and such. Maybe it fell and he said hell with it its okand boom penny.
How many miles are on the motor? It it been ran awhile that way and no markings or wearing have occurred then it should be fine. I would make sure its 100% before giving it the ok, but if its at the limit, has miles on it, and appears to be ok then you should be fine. Just use some thicker oil...
Looks way better lol. Enjoy it while it lasts, after a month of driving it will never look the same. Valve cover paint always chips on install. For me anyway.
Hmmm... Looks pretty damn good. The paint will crap up on the exhaust after a short time as stated above. I used 1000* grill paint on mine awhile back, flat black and its still lookin good. And i assume this is the duplicolor spray paint?
Dsm in mn, best post ive seen in a while.
OP Please post some visuals so we can help you. Oh and the oil feed is in the back of the block so i doubt its the hg.
This cannot be serious..... So you have 32k to throw at a heavily modded car that you know nothing about and cant even drive? On top of that why would twiks69 sell his car off like this? Why is there a douche canoe as an avatar? What is going on?? ??????;;;
From what I have read the first ten minutes of an engines life is where the initial cylinder hatching files or seats the rings. If allowed to idle the hatching will wear without the piston under load. Under load causes the piston to force against the cylinder wall and better seat the rings. Same...
Sounds like a plan. Shit we can walk you through the install if need be. Its a shame a transmission shop cant figure out the problem and your paying for it.
Looks like a shit ass throw out bearing in the pic. Get an oem one, hell i have a brand new one ill throw at ya. Anyway, sounds like they installed the disk wrong causing the pp fingers to push outward and not allow travel of the t.o.b. that and they didnt adjust or bleed the system. That clutch...
S&M AUTO PARTS. 704-932-0425 call these guys. Their located in Kannapolis NC. I got a coil pack for like $25 shipped, very good customer service.Dam just realized you already got another maf, oh well.
Just do a stock rebuild and throw it in. Drive it until you save for a turbo dsm. Not trying to pull you away from the 420a but to even compete with a stock 4g63t you will need to drop some bread. Enough bread to buy a decent used 63 dsm. Check craigslist in your area, i always see alot of 1g...
Tooshay sir. The only other sensor i can think of is the barometric pressure sensor on the drivers side of the intake mani, whether its plug is the same i dont know. I agree that the 6 bolt is well worth the time and effort, as i have done the swap.
And NO ONE has a dead on cause of crankwalk...
Now the machine shop honed it out for you? Did you bring them the pistons to do so? And who gapped the rings? Ive been to a shop that said sure i can bore it 20 over for ya, no pistons no nothing. The correct way is to bore each cylinder to its corresponding piston and then gap the rings to the...
True, but then theres rewiring the crank and cam sensors. And if he swaps in a full 6 bolt then he would need to wire up the few sensors on the intake mani.
Ok that clears up alot. I would keep the 98 engine and do a build on it. Forged pistons and rods for 500hp, stock crank should be ok. I personally would reccomend manley, but its all opinion. That motor should bolt right up with everything. Only thing that would need changing is your cam sensor.