They do. I just used one today to cut off the bolts for the rear upper control arm on my 1g. So I feel your pain on subframe bolts...:cry:Link to the one I have: Heavy Duty 4-1/2" Angle GrinderEveryone laughs at Harbor Freight but for $22 + 20% off coupon = win. I've used mine for about...
Try an Angle Grinder with a 4.5" grinding wheel and just grind that bit off (broken side).
Then when the broken side is flush it should just fall out. Or at the very least you'd simply be able to quickly put a punch and hammer it out.Angle grinders are kinda fat and tough to fit in there...
Reading comment was really in reply to this but not meant in disrespect. Hell, I have ecmlink and fully believe the forum on link is worth the asking price because of the information I've read up on there.And for the turbo....you dead set on a Evo3 16g? $600 is a lot to drop into it...
950's are overkill for injectors, for the stated goal (300hp).
OP buy: 650 inj, 255, afpr, wideband
Mostly do the absolute basics like boost leak testing...eliminating exh leaks...etc. AND reading man. Read a lot of threads on here of similar questions and setups. Will save you a lot of time.
Just buy some new line and a box of fittings (then rent flaring tool).
Do it right; do it once.
Fuel line and fittings are relatively cheap.
It'll be more work to pull one off junk car than to just bend and flare whole new line.
You have something T'd into your BOV line (looks like a boost gauge line). I would advise running a dedicated vac line from intake manifold to the BOV. Then Tee into the Fuel pressure regulator line for the boost gauge.For your no-start issue: Check the Coolant Temp Sensor located on the...
It's not a bolt on-off situation. You can cut that corner portion off and weld on the corner from the parts car. Although fitment will be difficult.
For most, a new clean shell would be the best option.
DIY Tensioner tool = M8x1.25 threadsVisual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page
Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home PageThe tool you make will work well a few times. Anymore than that just consider ordering the set from Jay Racing as mentioned by Dsmkauai.
Transfer case: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
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Redline lightweightor gm synchromesh for the...
The FP Black has a down-firing compressor cover. You need an L shaped coupler to attach to the bottom ic pipe. Well, besides the obvious change of the intake pipe setup (considerably larger on the black v. 16g). Using their recommended size drain wouldn't hurt either.Use their recommended...
Overview
Vehicle: 91 Eagle Talon Tsi AWDSo youre doing a battery relocation or just need to get some thick wire from engine bay to inside of car.
Forget about trying to squeeze it through the pass side grommet (Engine harness pass through) or slicing into your steering rack boot.
Make...
If others are having trouble finding the 3 Wire Pigtail, you can pick them up real cheap through RockAuto. This is for the GM CS Regulator Connector.Type in 85854 in the part number search in order to get the Dorman 85854 pigtail. They're $2.87 each plus shipping :rocks:None of the...
The Harbor Freight hoist and stand are sufficient for this size motor. The 1 ton crane with fold-able legs stores nicely and the 3 leg 1 ton stand works well for the money. You might as well get the leveler they offer: 2 Ton Capacity Heavy Duty Load Leveler This makes pulling the engine and...
This is my preferred method of handling this situation as well.For the removal of the bolt:
Wedge the crank like mentioned above ^
Then slip a 22MM 6 pt closed wrench over the bolt with a cheater bar over it.
You can then stick your 1/2in impact gun in the slot.
Now you have the power...
Great. Now go to a Wal-Mart near you or something similar and cut like 4 extra copies: They're about $1.50 for each key (no transponder). This is a lot cheaper than the dealership runaround...Keep one in the wallet and hide one somewhere on the car with a magnet :ninja:Also, some dealerships...
Meh, I say go ahead and do it. Won't be more difficult than just adding a "Y style pipe" to branch off at the end for the dual tip. Much like the SRT-4 Neon axle back portion which is made with a snake like Y section. I'm not sure what kind of space you have under the car but if you have enough...
Their welds have been the problem in the past and I doubt that has/will change anytime soon. Personally the only ones I've seen "last" are the ones that have already cracked and been tig welded Again. The quality is just not there and for $220, that is not much of a bargain either:|
Yes, the t-case drops with 5 bolts and the down pipe with 2.
You shouldn't have to force anything to line up as far as the oil pan bolts go. They strip with little force applied so be careful not to do so. Is the surface flat on the pan?Picture reference of 1g oil pan showing all the...
You may as well close off the FIAV while you're doing any seals:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/391977-free-fiav-block.htmlThe little screws for the lower portion are 5mm x 35mm length (four of them) and one 5mm x 20mm length. They're 0.8 thread pitch too. Replace...
Think you've answered yourself there...It is always easier to do it correctly the first time; seems like it'll always cost you more money and hassle later if you try to rig it up (2 gaskets :ohdamn:)All the above applies even if that means paying someone else to do the service if you don't...
To remove harmonic pulley:
Rent a larger 3 arm puller tool to remove the harmonic balancer. Just spray it down with some pb blaster and do it slowly or you'll snap the edges off.Or you could just remove the oil pan and very lightly tap it off:
Flip the engine over so pan side is up top...
If it's the cap that's leaking then just buy an OEM plug for it: MD092785
Then add a little dab of rtv to the cap before pressing it in.If it's the castle plug then same deal except it also has an o ring which leaks often:
Castle plug- MD125376
Rubber O ring for Castle plug- MD041021...
There are plenty of alternatives but are they really any better than Ecmlink? Probably not. (Personal opinion- of course)
Plus you get a great support community with Link :thumb:, which to some is definitely worth the asking price. (Yes I endorse it because I have Link and it's awesome)Others...
If it has provisions for the air cooler, then NO it is not the water cooled one.
It's either one or the other. You can't have both.Are you confusing factory allen plugs for oil cooler provisions by chance?
Have you done a boost leak test recently since you put it all back together?
I'm sure there is a leak at your Throttle Body along with many pinholes in your stock IC piping that you can't see.If it's surging, here's a great reference to help you out:
Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3...
Sounds like a hack job that another person is going to have to deal with later on down the road. Probably a source of some of your problems too.
Great attitude to receive the help you are requesting from people:rolleyes:
I agree with Hal, search for a few minutes and quit whining about...
Personally, I'd recommend just a couple tack welds on the flapper wheel.
That way it's extremely easy to grind them off if you change your mind/ setup
later on down the road. It will also make it easier to sell if you do it this way as well :thumb:
The CTS-V brembos are not exactly a "direct fit."
-There needs to be material removed from the caliper itself.
-You also require custom brackets for the calipers.
-You may need some spacers/washers made as well.Not saying anything is too difficult but planning and research is a...
Yes, that stuff works just fine for improving sound quality. I used something similar on my DD and it actually helps with killing rattle too. It made the entire car seem a little more quiet (as in- less road noise coming in).Although, the only downside is that stuff sucks in very hot...
Larger Turbo Diesel Radiator hoses will work if you're willing.
Or you could purchase an entire piping kit for smic:
Intercooler Kits & Intercooler Pipes - Punishment RacingThat kit is about half the cost of a complete fmic kit but if you need to replace
the rest of the stock ic hosing...
Wire a toggle switch for the brights. You'll need to run a wire into the vehicle for the source on the switch. Other than that, it's straight forward.If this is one of those Ebay style projectors, I hope you're not using the high beams on the road way.
- They are almost never aimed...
Do not buy that housing you listed, they are not real projectors and produce pretty crappy lighting.If you're going to buy anything to replace your OEM bulb, buy e code H4 housings.
Either Hella e code h4666 or something similar like autopal e code h4666.
Hella is more expensive but a bit...
Wes_393 already told you what you need and so have others (and what you don't) to obtain your stated goals. One more thread to add to the thousands of "3-400hp build threads."You're not going to max an e316g anytime soon. No a 20g will not serve you better than the e316g here. No, you do not...
True retro fit conversion is recommended.The easiest solution IMHO would be to:
1. Purchase a set of projector headlight housings for your vehicle off ebay.
2. Purchase a set of projectors from the Retrofit Source.
3. Replace the cheap halogen projectors with the purchased ones off...
The difference in vibration is minor compared to the risk/damage a snapped b-shaft belt will cause. Do a proper elimination using an oem stubby shaft and lose the fear of some tiny belt wrecking the motor when it goes.Norcalgsx: Buy the Wideband if your planning on doing mods, you need to...
First off, nice clean approach.
-Great choice on the Memphis PR line of subs; Memphis has great underrated speakers for the price
(I have Memphis Pr 6.5's and 6x9 in my car and a JL 10w7 :hellyeah:)As far as the gasket set you used:I have used that gasket set before on a beater talon...
For starters, your vehicle has one header:pScion TC's are fun, they have 2.4l 4 cyl and are kinda quick for what it's worth. In college, you'll love the dependability and fuel efficiency if you go this route.As others have stated, having a visual reference on hand is essential to...
$500 will not last long at all, and will be burnt up doing maintenance. Turbos often burn up due to lack of maintenance,what else may need repair before just slapping on another turbo to blow up?Do that first, then spend some time on here using sources such as this:
Tech Guide - DSMtuners...
Good looking Panda! Must be really clean for you to justify flying out there to inspect/buy it.Things that look out of place (visual opinion, of course): 1g intake/maf
That snorkel really kills it:pBut seriously, any plans for it?
There really is no "crankwalk issue" in the 7 bolt. Mostly claims from people who just "think" their crank walked.Just do maintenance, get her running well, then begin to mod. Take it slow and do some research first: like reviews, write ups, etc...Building doesn't mean dropping a lot of...
That's a 1g manifold, not a 2g. :aha:For reference of 1g v. 2g manifold:
Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page
Notice the difference on the right hand side.Cool start to a project though. And an excellent idea to get her running well before playing the mod game :thumb:
I have heard nothing but good things for Koni yellows on a 1g.
You'll have to use 2g ones in the rear though. No big deal.I will be using a set of BNIB K-sports because they were included in the sale when I bought my DSM :D
Um no, a wideband and some sort of logging device should be the first "mods."To the OP:
Throw the manifold on now, it won't hurt a thing. Same with the 16g.
6 bolts almost never "walked." And the whole "walking" issue on 7 bolts is used more often than not by people who don't actually know what it means. My suggestion: buy a stock-rebuilt short block, new timing kit, and be on your way. :thumb:
Places to look into: JAM (Jackson Auto Machine) or...