According to their website, all 1G's and all FWD's (1G and 2G) use an oval can and the 2G AWD is the one that uses the round can.Thermal Research & DevelopmentClick on the little camera icon to see the product picture.Since the video of the white 2G is a GS-T, it's using the oval can.
Seems fairly clean.. Does the seller have receipts on all the work that is claimed to be done? Looks like the timing belt has a few miles on it. I would definitely get rid of that "GSX" painted on the center tail light section. The duct tape on the intake may be taped on heat shield to keep the...
The 2G Thermal exhaust has a large round canister for the muffler and a 5" tip that comes straight out instead of slanted. The muffler canister is slanted and the 5" tip compensates to straighten it out.
Take your time and read through this. http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf
Tons of good info in there that will help you decide 2.0 or 2.3. I personally am going to stay with a 2.0 just because I don't want to mess with the engine dynamics that much. Plus the world's fastest 4G63T is a 2.0...
I have the Megan racing dp with the small section cut out and the Thermal 2G round canister exhaust.. So 3" catless turbo-back and when I let other people drive my car, I can hear my little 14b slightly whistling out the exhaust. I'd imagine cat would make a huge difference.
Thanks for the responses everyone! All my researching lead to 1000 to 1200cc injectors to run that set up. I happen to come across these 1450's for $160 shipped so I couldn't pass it up lol. I figured with 1450's, it would be overkill a little, but will leave room for me to grow. I was planning...
I purchased a used set of FIC 1450cc injectors and I'm wondering if they are too big for my setup/goals? Shooting for +/- 450awhp.6-bolt engine - stock internals for now
3" turbo back (catless)
Walbro 255lph
AFPR
FP cast mani
External wg
Holset hx-35 w/ BEP .55a/r hotside
Boost psi ...
^ Yep. Some say using a gasket on the oil pan tends to actually cause leaks and it's better to just RTV it. It depends on what quality gasket you use and how thoroughly you put it on. But RTV alone is fine.
Took my whole fuel rail and injectors off today. I had to crank it for a second or two more than usual to get the fuel flowing again, but it started right up after that. Did you crank it more than once?If you have link, you can activate the fuel pump and it will prime the system.
+1 on load leveler. I got mine from Summit Racing and it makes pulling the engine/trans a breeze. Just remove both of them together at an angle. Should take a few minutes once you get it all hooked up.
I just use 3M's polishing compound and an electric buffer. Then once I get it clean, I just spray clear coat over it to keep it from retuning to a foggy look.
Yeah definitely not worth a trade. Like mentioned above, if he was dumb enough to burn the valves up running that much boost on a stock-ish set-up, chances are he was dumb enough to ruin other parts as well.
I'm having the hardest time setting up my dual stage MBC. I contacted Dejon, but their answer was not really clear. I have it hooked up and wired. No matter which way I switch the solenoid, I hit 20psi (even with the MBC backed way out). I obviously have something hooked up wrong. I have the...
Any jerking/bucking when it happens? I had a similar issue. Would free rev fine and accelerate great until around 3500. But once it hit 3500, it was like a brick wall. Ended up being that the honeycomb in my MAS was completely gone. Replaced it with a used MAS and it was good to go. Worth...
True. Just have to play around with the tolerance numbers you have OP and see which would be best for you. Chances are you just need to slightly dent the pipe.
I'm running a 14b on my 6-bolt engine in my 2G. Hitting 14-15psi at WOT. Stock actuator on the turbo (still using OEM solenoid in the bay) - no boost controller either. Also have open dump. Stock fuel system too.
You'll be better off buying a new belt that is closer to the proper length. I'm not exactly how long it should be, but you could tie a small rope around the crank and water pump pulleys (pretend the rope is the belt) and cut the rope to the proper length. Then measure how long the rope is. Then...
Could use a turbo flange spacer. Like this.
Of course get the flange spacer that matches your turbo/exhaust housing.May still have to dent the water pipe a little.
Is your problem in a higher gear and lower rpm? Like lugging it and then trying to accelerate? Mine tends to fall on it's face/bog. I used DSMLink to see what was going on. Turned out I would randomly get 14 degrees of knock which retards the timing. Check boost leak and other things mentioned...
I had a similar issue when I first got my car. Turned out the honeycomb in the MAS was missing and it was reading airflow way off. It would cruise alright, but under 50%+ petal, it would buck/shutter really bad. I'd look there. Do you have a 6 or 7 bolt?
Sounds like you are either running too much pressure to the turbo or your oil return line is too small causing back pressure. What kind of turbo is it?
No need to upgrade MAF yet. People usually say just get the GM w/ MAFT. Don't. The stock 2G MAF has successfully supported over 400hp.Focus on fuel, turbo, and possibly upgrade your ignition system.
I've heard that not recirculating the BOV could cause that. Usually it happens when coming to a stop though.My alternator fuse was blown for awhile, but I could still drive the car and it wouldn't die. All the lights were just really dim. So I doubt it's your alt.