My car did the exact same thing. Wouldnt smoke on start up but after it would idle for a few minutes after it warmed up it would smoke. Changed the Valve stem seals when I did my timing belt and havnt had a puff of smoke since and that was about 10,000 miles ago

Not much to mess up. 4 bolts if your changing the rotors and pads. Now drum brakes on the other hand I can understand not wanting to do as thier are alot of springs and adjusters to deal with. Disk brakes only thing to mess up is not tightening the bolts all the way or cleaning the film off new...

Have you checked advance auto parts?

I know someone with a non turbo talon that has a 100% black interior.

I went to the dealer and it was $8 for the longer one

I didnt even think about a clogged cat. Thats a very good possibility as well. Disconnect it and see it it revs higher.

Pull the plugs. You may have fouled them out. Anytime I use Sea-foam I change the plugs afterwards. Some one else saying fuel filter might be on to something to. The in tank filter may be clogged or a injector clogged from the gunk freed up but the Sea-foam. Check fuel pressure at the rail while...

If the pin spins freely it is dead center between the spec. so no you do not need to check with a drill bit. Its had to even see anything with the motor in the car to use the drill bit method.

The easiest way to do it is to adjust the tensioner so the "grenade pin" slides in and out freely. I put tension on the pulley until I can move it in and out then torque the bolt to 36ft/lbs rotate it till the marks all line up again let it sit 20 minutes and if the pin still moves freely you...

Rear shocks on a 2g

You sure the exhaust valve seals aren't leaking? Is the oil coming out just under the exhaust ports? Does it smoke at all? The drain hole for the valve cover it there too. Is the oil in the spark plug area of the valve cover or and cracked bolt holes?

When you let off the throttle its going to go lean that in normal. I'd try a new coolant temp sensor.

I'd unplug the VSS and see if it show something different on the gauge. If you have a scan tool that scan shows live data, logger or DSMLink then you can also look at those and see what the computer is reading as far as vehicle speed goes.

21mm,22mm,24mm and 32mm

Sounds like a bad TOB to me.

Yea it looks great its just gonna be a lot of work to maintain the shine. I wouldn't want it on a daily driver.

My car would push coolant into the expasion tank until it was full but the cap was bad so it wouldnt pull it back into the system when the car cooled down.

Not that I know of. They are super light witch is pretty awesome.

The Aircat is super quiet. All their tools are. My IR is loud as hell it dosnt bother me but im sure my neighbors disagree. Mine isnt the quite tool version.

If i was a pro i might spring for a snap on. But thats alot of money for a impact. I dont have the most dry air ever but i oil mine before ever use that may be why i havnt had problems. If i had to by a 2nd gun you cant beat the aircat for price point. They are the OEM for MAC and i wanna say...

maybe. I have read alot of stuff on garage journal about ppl having problems with them. I have a ir2135TIMAX and love it. But if your lookin for cheap the aircat nitrocat 1200k is about $160 and has the same power. the only snap on air tool id shell out the cash for is their air hammer its a beast.

The SO MG725 has a weak hammer case that likes the shatter under heavy use. The IR2135timax and Aircat nitrocat are far better and very popular with pros. Aircat is the cheapest too ass its under $200

My drivers side caster is lower than the passenger. but not that low. and the front right toe is pushing it. Not sure why the guy didnt try getting it closer to 0

At least he can get a new block for way cheap.

They are being lazy. Tell them throw some boards down. they have no problem doing it with Vettes but when you bring in a lowered car they throw a fit about it. I've have 2 places tell me no then I had another that has a lifetime alinement package do it twice then the 3rd time bitched about it...

So FP cant rebuild the T28s anymore?

Input shaft bearing? Had that problem in a honda. Check your fluid level

In some cases yes. Mine never smoked until it warmed up and would only smoke after it idled for a few minutes. So after I sat at a stop light and hit the gas I would get a big puff of blue smoke.I never once got smoke on cold start up. The seals have to be leaking pretty bad to puddle oil on top...

Its normal for air to leak pass the oil seals under a static test. With out oil flowing around the seals they will leak air. I had the same problem and it was valve stem seals. When the engine warmed up the oil was thin enough to get sucked passed the valve stem seals do to vacuum and would...

Does it have cams by chance? Aftermarket cams are going to lower the result of a compression test

I'd let the engine warm up all the way and make sure you have the throttle wife opened you would be suprised.

how exactly did you get rid of that line?

FWD or AWD?

You can order a Denso sensor from rockauto for less than have of what Mitsu charges. Denso is the OEM sensor.

If you arnt getting any codes then their is no reason why the light should be on.You have to complete a drive cycle for any codes to be thrown. The car has to switch between closed loop and open loop before a o2 code will throw

Try bypassing the turbo in your test and see if it stops. If it does then you have nothing to worry about. If it doesn't you may need valve stem seals. I put my money of the shaft seals though and its normal for them to let air pass under boost leak test.

Could be PCV valve or air passing buy the shaft seals in the turbo. Pull the PCV out and put you finger over it. If that isnt whats leaking bypass the turbo on your boost leak test and if it stops then its just the shafts seals letting air past.

You can either grove it out and weld it. Or you can use a epoxy made to repair bumpers grove it and fill the front side and the apply a mesh reinforcement on the back and apply the epoxy over that.

No they come out of the top. Im not sure if I would try to re-ring and a block still in the car. I'd be worried about honing material getting between the crank journals and bearings.

Thats the most common cause. I think their was even a TSB from mitsu for it.

Its probably the hood switch. They get bent down and will make the alarm go off.

Do a leakdown test. Like the other guy said if the motor was fully warmed up, throttle plate open and battery fully charged your rings are probably shot. Only other thing it could be is valve stem seals or PCV valve.

A Denso o2 sensor is like 40 bucks.

Dont most stud have problems after 20 years?

I also have 2 and have fostered quite a few. The only thing they will kill you with is cuddles. They have never been overly aggressive towards other dogs. Small animals that end up in the yard is a different story they usually end up dead but they have a high prey drive. They were not bread to...

Cost probably plays a bigger part in why auto makers don't use stainless. They dont use Stainless exhaust pipes, down pipes, mufflers or manifolds either so should we not do that either?

So you use high temp anti-seize.

Evo 3 manifolds can use the stock heat shield. I have a FPt28 and 3" down pipe no cat and 3" megan cat back. I have no issues with boost creep.

That right rear tire diffidently looks like it has something wrong with it to me . I wonder if it is out of alignment. You can easily tell that tire has a ton of toe in from those pics

My plate is just screwed to the bumper. If your really worried about it. machine screws and a flat washer and nut on the back side of the bumper