Ok will do. Thanks alot for your help man its greatly appreciated..

Cause mine seems to engage about 3 or 4 inches or so off the floor but i have about a inch of freeplay in the pedal too. So you figure i only have about 2 inches or so of travel before theres no resistance. The clutch seems to chatter and slip a little as it starts to engage. So im not sure if...

Nope no leaks anywhere that i can see..Its a f1 racing clutch and a f1 racing flywheel. I bought it as a kit. This is the link to the same kit i bought. F1 Stage 3 Clutch Kit Flywheel 5 92 99 Eclipse Talon Laser FWD 7 Bolt 2 0L Turbo | eBayAnother question i have is about how far off the...

I adjusted the master rod as per jacks trans tech article, no extended slave rod, and the fork is angled to the driver side. So its gotta be the step height

I'm still breaking the clutch in ive only put maybe 30 miles on the car. So I haven't even had a chance to accelerate hard or launch the car yet but even normal driving it seems to slip a little when it starts to grab. Ive smelt the clutch a few times. Do you think its worth putting the steel...

I understand where ## coming from but idk if its worth it cause I'm having issues with the headgasket also. Idk anymore this car has me a lot of stress and sleepless nights.

I'm trying to figure out why the clutch is engaging so late.Man if I gotta pull the trans again I might just junk this thing. The headgasket is starting to go bad to and I'm starting to think its not worth all this headache. Its my dd and ive been without a car for few months now ### of all...

Unfortunately its a f1 racing clutch and flywheel i got off ebay. I guess i got what a paid for idk. Im gonna try to get someone to help me bleed it tomorrow and see what happens.

I didnt know you had to get the flywheel checked or i would have. I guess thats to late now. Yes its the oem clutch fork, pivot ball, and tob. I also put one spacer behind the pivot ball. The clutch fork is angled towards the driver side also.I used amsoil 75-90 gear oil. So your saying on a...

LOL i appreciate both of your guys input cause im lost here. So do either of you know if you have to check the step height even on a new flywheel or just a resurfaced one? Also would having air in the line affect the engagement of the clutch?

TRE TECH TIPSI did a little research on step height and from what i read on the tre site it sounds as if this might be the problem. Im gonna try bleeding the clutch using the instructions on the link that T is for Turbo posted and see if it helps at all. I just dont see if there is air in the...

Im not even sure what you mean when you say the flywheel step height.. So even if the flywheel is new the step height needs to be checked? I hope i dont have to pull the trans again for this things goin to the car crusher.

I was having issues with the clutch fork hitting the side of the transmission case and it was causing disengaging issues. I pulled the trans out and the clutch fork and pivot ball were badly worn and the flywheel and pressure plate had some pretty good size heat cracks. I replaced the clutch...

Dang this sucks.. Anyone else have any input??

The oil drain plug or anything else isn't magnetized to my knowledge. The car doesn't have the t25 anymore i have a small 16g on there but i know the owner previous to me had the t25 rebuilt so that maybe left over parts from when the turbo blew on him. Im gonna inspect my turbo and see if...

I drop my oil pan yesterday to pop out the dent from what looks like someone driving over a curb or something at some point. But when i got the pan off to my surprise there were some pretty large metal pieces sitting in the pan. When i parked the car it ran fine no knocking or pinging. Well the...

You remove the cap and there is a piston that you have to remove also then you remove the diaphragm. If you search the forums there is a few write ups on how to disassemble them. Oh and all you need is the diaphragm.

Are you using it in a greddy type s or the rs bov?Do you know what vendors on ebay there getting the bov's from? Cause if thats the case i may just buy one of those.Thanks for the info. I've heard the greddy diaphragms are cheaply made.

I did a boost leak test on my car a few days ago and the discovered the diaphragm is leaking on my bov. Ive been looking for a replacement and was wondering if anyone has tried to use the ngr diaphragm. Now ive heard that they will work in the greddy type s and im pretty sure the rs and type s...

Well i bought another tps, put it on, tested the resistance and everything is working fine now. Thanks for all of your guys info. I learned alot of stuff i didnt know lol.

You're good bro. I been checking pins 3 and 4 and im not getting any reading on the tester but it shows resistance when i check pins 1 and 4 or pins 2 and 4. I just dont get how it stop working out of no where. It worked fine the day before i pulled the tb.

LiquidX - I'll have to check the voltage and try that.Well just for sh*ts n giggles i checked the 1st and 2nd pins for resistance also and the volt tester was reading the resistance when i turned the tps. I know that doesnt matter much but i did it to see if the tester was working. What im...

I pulled my tb to replace the shaft seals. Im trying to adjust the tps. The problem im having is that when i try to set the ips i get o ohms (closed) when the tps is turned all the way to the left but when i rotate the tps to the right it never changes from closed to open (infinite ohms). What...

well i guess nobody has.

So that is more then likely the MDP sensor being bad? I also read something about if there is a boost leak it could also cause it to throw that code. Not sure if that is true so dont quote me on that. It could be possible cause i do have a leaking rs bov.

There has to be someone out there thats tried this before. I really need some input im limited on cash and dont really wanna buy a new bov if I dont have to.

Alright thanks man. Thats not the code thats coming up damn. Its p1400 and some other one for some emissions bs.

Im not buying the whole bov. Im wondering if the diaphragm will work in the rs bov.I also contacted ngr but they said they havent done any testing with it and they werent sure if it fits.

Bringing it back from the dead lol. Does anyone know the code that it throws for the bcs?

I did a boost leak test a few days ago and discovered that my greddy rs bov was leaking from a small hole on the back side of it. Im not sure what the hole is for but its machined so i assume it is supposed to be there. I pulled the bov apart and the diaphragm was starting to show the thread...

I know this is a old post but I have a greddy rs bov and i contacted ngr yesterday. They told me that the ngr diaphragms will not work in the greddy rs bov. Im not sure if that applies to the type s or not.

I been doing some maintenance on my car and noticed that the bcs is gone and was wondering if it would make the car run worse or if it even makes a difference at all.

Im not parting it out. I dont have another car yet. But ill give it a try and see what happens.

All the honeycombs are still in the MAS but someone messed with the screw on the bottom of it. I did a lil researching and found this 2G MAS Screw. According to rre turning the screw all the way in will make the car richen up and i tried do that but it didnt make any difference.

Are you sure that is why its pulling that code? I really dont want to have to pull the turbo off if i dont have to. I know one of the exhaust manifold studs are broke off but theres no carbon build up like its leaking in that area. The turbo to manifold gasket and o2 housing gasket are maybe a...

P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1 is the code thats coming up. Also P1400 which the MDP sensor malfunction. Another thing is that i have 550 injectors, a walbro 255fp, aero fp regulator and my settings are still postive on my afc +8 at 800rpm and range from +15 at 1400rpm to +6 at 7000rpm.

I did a boost leak test last week when the issue first started and found out the bov is leaking out of a small port on the back side and i cant get the car to hold more than 10psi. Could that be the issue? Because the af ratios jump around well cruising and accelerating but it doesnt happen at...

Yea and than you can feel the car kind stutter a lil bit.

Sounds to me like the cap is not relieving pressure like it should.

I have been trying to find what is causing my car to throw the fuel trim code. I tested the front o2 sensor and it tested good. Switched injectors out to the 450's and still had the same problem. I was looking over all the electrical connectors to see if there was any plugged and noticed that...

I did a little more research and found out that the p0443 code is for the evaporative emissions purge valve circuit. Where is that located?I plugged the purge solenoid back in and cleared the codes. I drove the car today and the cel came back on. Plugged the scanner in, these codes came up...

I went and had the car put on the engine scanner and the code for the o2 sensor is no longer coming up. But the MDP sensor code p1400 is stilling coming up, along with p0443 which i believe is coming up because the emissions are deleted.

I cleared the code with the scanner and it came back within a day. I pulled the sensor and it looks to be in pretty good shape. I guess the sensor must be on its way out because the a-f ratios are real erratic. Would a bad MDP sensor cause the car to have erratic a-f ratios? The car also is...

When the sensor is cycling im seeing .1 to 1.0 volts. Is that ok? Im getting a code for a heater circuit malfuction on the front sensor (PO135). Do u know how many volts the heater wire on the harness side should be putting out and on the sensor side do u know what the continuity should be...

Im trying to test my o2 sensor and im not sure what all the wire voltage should be. Ive done some searching and I know the wires on the harness side are red - power - 12 volts yellow - heater - .3 to .4 volts? black- signal ground white - signal - .1 to 1.0 volt? How many volts should the...

You might be over running the fuel system.

+1 on the failed voltage regulator. They are plastic and cause of the heat from being so close to the exhaust tend to go bad often. I have put 3 alternators on my car in 4yrs czuse of the regs going bad in them.

Regrease the throttle shaft and adjust the throttle plate. Samething happened to me after i rebuilt my tb.

I tested the o2 sensor today and everything tested fine except for the 2 wires for heater element. I was getting 0-ohms from those wires. So i guess it must be the 02 sensor than. Now i know the oem ones are probably the best quality but i dont have oem money right now lol. So out of bosch...

Someone had actually cut the wire going to pin 76 and connected the white wire from the aem wideband to it. So i clipped the wire from the wideband and reconnected the original wire back together. But when i did that it started having the problems i was talking about in the post just before...