You can just push open the throttle body and look in with a flashlight.

Look inside of the intake manifold. Let us know how much is in there. Money says it's not dry.Or the intake tube, see if there's a puddle under the compressor wheel. I know it's a rebuilt turbo, but people make mistakes.

I like how no one has asked you the compression ratio of your motor in order to know how much you should see on a compression test.. OP, you're getting oil from somewhere, the best advice is to go drive the car. Go drive it. For ten miles or so. Burning some oil won't hurt it.. Just let it get...

Check the water port that comes through the rear driver side of the head and is supposed to be blocked off by the IM and sealed by it's gasket. that seal can fail, especially if you are using a heat barrier.I find it to be a good practice to just fill the hole with epoxy and give a good flat...

It is not trigger off the backing plate for the crankshaft gear. It sits in the block.

Things like Foamy Engine Brite, or 3M Foaming Engine Degreaser. Warm water it fine. just be careful of all your sensors.

Does it knock or anything? Make any weird noises? Is it a 6 or 7 bolt motor?

I'm not 100% sure what triggers the Crank Angle sensor down there, and that plate could be it, but it wouldn't be my initial guess. So try checking the fuel and spark and see where you end up. Check spark with this procedure, grab an extra spark plug, pull off one of the spark plug wires at a...

I can't see your crank timing mark in the picture, but if it's on the arrow, then it's not an issue, and your timing is good. Now you'll need to check for spark and fuel, do you need assistance in how to do those two things?

So the issue is when you push in the clutch pedal, and do not put it in gear? Have you done a clutch drag test? Jacks Transmissions LLC — Clutch Drag Kills Synchros!

So when you push the clutch in and leave the car in neutral do the RPM's still drop? Or only when the transmission is put into a gear? There is a thread describing how to adjust your clutch pedal itself, I'll find it and link to it.You see the rod? it threads through the clutch pedal bracket...

I would use a composite gasket, and OEM studs are perfectly fine. Also, before you let them deck your head have it checked for flatness, check with a vendor on this site for a flatness tolerance for that particular gasket. If you're within tolerance (likely) there is no reason to pay for a deck...

http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product_p/pf%20fel9627pt.htm There's a good head gasket. your 100 compression does not sound like bent valves at all, there are multiple issues that would cause that, but it's showing that the valves are sealing pretty well. I'd pull the head, check the cylinders...

This thread is terrible. Everyone is giving conflicting advice, the OP isn't following hardly any of it because he heard hooves and thought zebra's instead of horses.. As was previously stated you can check cam timing with the lower timing cover still on, there is a mark on the harmonic...

It's fuel cut, you need tuning capabilities or to lower your boost level.

No, the OEM "green top" BOV is a good unit.

There is absolutely no reason for that tube being connected and sealed to have any adverse reaction to engine response and turbo spool whatsoever, what it should do is make it run better when the BOV is open (i.e. at idle, or between shifts), this is all assuming you didn't make the bonehead...

Many BOV's, like greddy BOV's have a "trumpet" (outlet port) that screws into the housing. Obviously, BOV's like the tial is a completely different design and therefore would require a replacement.

So take a picture of the BOV. There's a large port on the BOV that a hose should run from to the intake. Again, as Clickclack said, it may be an aftermarket BOV that will require a recirculation kit.definitely red.

We're looking for like a 1.5" tube, not a 1/4" piece.

Take a picture of the hose running between the BOV and the intake, I don't see it in that picture. Also, there should be a small vacuum line running from the bottom of the intake manifold to the top port on the BOV.

Typical MAF will be found pre turbo, it meters air at atmospheric pressure, the GM MAF-T will be found in your upper intercooler pipe above the blow off valve, it measures pressurized air. You will have one of the two. The MAF-T is an aftermarket piece that allows you to vent your BOV to...

Looking at the picture I'd guess he has a stock MAF. There needs to be a tube that runs between the outlet of the BOV to the port on the intake, and it looks like you havn't tried doing that if you've just bought the car, so hook it up, and the car will no longer stumble and go rich when you...

No need for this. It's okay that he doesn't know that, he seems intelligible and ready to learn. Maybe you're irritated by him cause he asked such a simple question, well such a simple question may not have been answered in the sites history.

It may be a 12point as opposed to a 6 point. We wouldn't ask you to search, this is just a question that one would expect to be able to figure out without the help of the internet.

I don't like it.

different turbos... One was engineered and designed for the aftermarket world, helping guys run 10 seconds.. The other was designed for diesel trucks.. You're looking at ball bearing, vs. Journal bearing.They're very different. Now, for the price of a gt35, you can almost buy an fp turbo based...

Step height on our flywheel for an act clutch is about .612. Stock is different, it's a couple hundredths different. Just because your buddy had the flywheel resurfaced doesn't mean that it's correct. I bet that's your issue.

If your intake manifold is getting that hot, then your intake gasses are hotter than they should be. Simple as that.. You can try cleaning your OEM IC core, it may help. I've seen the fins completely packed tight with dirt.

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it's a function over form piece, however there is a member here, don't remember his user name, that has one sticking out of his hood, and his car is amazing, but that's not for everyone.

Sounds like your CAS is 180* out. 2g guys don't think of this because theirs can only go in one way.Also, when you to the key from off to the on position, does the factory boost gauge go to zero, and the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on for about 5 seconds?

You say you have a hot bay, what did the temp gauge show? I'm assuming you don't have link or a logger that was running, nor an aftermarket temp gauge. And it's not weird for an intake manifold on a turbo car to get hot, especially if you've upped boost and have heatsoaked your IC. Then the...

My vote is on a loose cam chain. Tighten her up a bit and see if it helps, I wouldn't think that trucks that early had auto adjusters.And this thread needs moved to the hangout.

the 14b will spool better than a 16g, and you should be able to run at least 23-25 psi on a 1.6 with a 14b and make decent power. (Feel like a lot in a miata)

Bullseye is a good company. I don't see any issues with it.

An intake pipe that is smaller than the compressor cover inlet is a large restriction. Velocity through that pipe will have to be immense. That 2.25" pipe has to move the exact same air mass as moving through your charge pipes, however, being pressurized the air in the charge pipes is much more...

It should work, just use a file and make sure there aren't any notches.. Whether or not to use JB weld is iffy, but that's up to you. And why are we talking about the bellhousing also? If you scratched the shaft there is no reason the replace the bellhousing.

There are definitely benefits of using a manual rack as opposed to a rack that was designed to be power assisted, if you're not using any power assistance. The manual rack will be much easier to turn and drive with, and will also last longer.

I'm sorry guys, everyone is trying there best to help this guy, but in the future someone is going to look at the thread and gain zero knowledge from it. Most of the posts are nearly illegible. This isn't the Honda forum, let's try a bit harder.And you must have bent valves for your rocker...

Okay, Thank you Jimmy. That's a good idea.

Hmm, I didn't even think about the turbo in this situation.. And it seems like the AFR's are fine for the first few minutes after startup, whether it's warm or cold.. Maybe the ECU has the adjust.. But now that I'm thinking about the turbo I'll be keeping my foot out of it.. (I guess I wasn't...

So I currently don't have a BOV because I need to build the flange, and don't have the opportunity to do so right now. So I did the sensible thing and simply moved my air filter up to the UICP, therefore I bypassed the turbo. It seems all well and good because I have MAFT in the UICP to meter...

Updates?

Stock plock means no ARP rod bolts, and it looked like they were OEM bolts in the video.

That CX racing FMIC is going to be a nightmare. There was a test someone conducted and showed that it's less efficient than the OEM SMIC. If you want an inexpensive intercooler go with the VRSF intercooler.

I curious about this. Because it sounds like it needs a trans, so I doubt there was a trans in the car. So the rear end, driveshaft, and the transfer case would have freewheeled. Right? I don't think there would be an issue.

There is a general welding tech thread in the custom fab section.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/424233-official-welding-thread.html

ignition fuse?Something is wrong with your ignition switch it sounds like.

If it's coming from around the turbo charger area, look at all the connecting wires to the alternator.