Yeah yeah Funny guys....45 bucks is too damn expensive for a freakin plug!!Soo the Maf Side plug for a 1g DIY maf adapter harness comes from any 3.0L v6 mitsubishi engine. Its the fuel injection connector located under the intake manifold.Just picked one up from picknpull for a dollar! :)
Does anyone have the plug that plugs into the 1g maf harness...car side.i dont really want to hack the plug off the harness on my car, and i dont want to pay 50 bucks for an adapter either.Id pay 10 bucks for the plug just to save me a day of walking around the freaking junkyard :)
If you are tuning afr in the fuel map...you are not tuning the fuel map at all.you are tuning the O2 target map.when using o2 correction to keep the car in tune, the changes are always coming several cycles after the event. make sense?mitsu has huge resources. true.we are in a hugely...
sorry matt, that comment was not directed towards you.As you shouldnt be. I will try hard to add more sarcasm next time.Tuning is tuning. Doesnt matter what car, what system they all work the same.Sure there are preferences for systems and what not. But this is more opinion than science...
your timing being off has nothing to do with a compression test.the fact that the cylinders are not all even indicates bad something somewhere. rings, valves, head gasket etc. But since its two adjoining cylinders that are low, chances are its the gasket, deck surface or how you torqued it...
if you have a wally 255 pump you need a FPR.the stock one cannt bypass enough fuel to control the fuel pressure in low demand situations. like idle.this over pressure is causing the car to run rich.set your base fuel pressure at 43psi. its the industry standard for modern efi.Moving...
Installed the water neck, clt and iat on the 2g...finally finishing the speed density conversionremoved the d/p i just battled to get installed so i could weld in the o2 bung...just wire up the wb02 and ems crap is done. finally.Decided to pull the eternally leaking oil pan while i was down...
correct.if the tcu is freaked out for whatever reason the only fwd gear you will have will be 3rd. Seems like that would be hell on the tranny stuck in 3rd all the time.
im no tranny guy... but these trans are electronically controlled. The solenoids control line pressure and gear position by being Pulse Width Modulated. Not just a simple on or off.If the tranny is freaking out, it might be worth pulling the TCU out and checking the caps to make sure it hasnt...
This is pretty much all true, and admittedly way over my head. The sensors triggering inputs dont really use much processing power.The process of how your car determines fuel trim however, does require some thought. First you cross refference speed and load {rpm vs psi}Whatever cell...
this is the most ignorant statement ever.if you can tune link, you can tune aem or squirt or anything else.if you want to run speed density there is some bullshittery involved with the link system making it more of a hassle to tune.if you set the AEM up for Boost Comp {google it}...
definitely do not put any magic trans fix fluid in there.that will surely kill it.You need to properly diagnose it. there are some pretty good a/t specific forums out there, over on talk for one.It could be something easy like an end clutch or blown seal causing low line pressure. it...
how about 1200 whp on a eagle rotating assy ls1/ that count for anything?prob not.cause tuning is platform specific i tell ya.lol. db'sthe guys asking for help, not a pud pulling contest.
good link, i forgot the water line on the tube was threaded!!!!if you cant find that exotic fitting it would be easy enough to tap it out for NPT and use a readily available fitting...but i updated my post above to count for it. good find 91on my water tube that bi*** was so rusted in there...
well sweet! i was told the basic damper was chinese while the flex was made in japan. i am COMPLETELY averted to running chinese suspension on my car. {i enjoy my life}i have only ever owned a flex for a suby {cause i got it used for way too cheap} my pockets dont typically have room for...
almost killed myself driving a customers 1g with flip flops on. he had pedals on it, and when i hit anything clsoe to full throttle the flop got wedged between the pedal and tranny hump. Basically leaving the car stuck wide open until i could get the shoe ripped free.it was a butthole...
lol yeah it happens. thats why i asked to see the cal file, it seemed like something wasnt right. on my hondas random RPM limiter almost always meant i forgot to tighten the dizzy and my timing was way off. make sure your cam sensor is snug, then run your ign wizard!ive been having alot of...
I will try and address the concerns..let me know if i miss anything.Megasquirt. Building the damn thing, yes it is a hurdle. Is it hard? absolutely not. Socketing a stock ecu i believe is more difficult than building the DIYPNP squirt.on the ms2 you are doing ALOT of soldering, esp of...
Dont run the turbo without coolant.Fittings. You need AN to Straight thread adapters. they are out there. These simply screw into the straight thread water ports on your turbo and seal with an aluminium crush washer. Here are a couple options. Earl's Performance 991945ERL which is a straight...
wow... im not sure english is your primary language so ill leave it at that.internal or external waste gate, recirculated or not has zero affect on your air fuel ratio or its monitoring.Wastegates are not open off boost. and there is always more pressure behind the wastegate than in front of...
that turbo appears to have been media blasted while fully assembled.Look at the oil inlet fitting. It is clean inside and out {like bead blasted clean}the exhaust housing has been undoubtedly blasted as well. Yet the compressor wheel looks like it has about 5 million miles onit.If you...
i have both the aem uego [external not gauge type] and a couple lc-1'sthe lc-1 is just better all around it seems. better sensor life, less headaches. the aem has been a slight nightmare.the problem with aem's gauge type is the connector is a big piece of shit. cut it off, solder the pins...
If you still need some help down here in the 757 give me a shout.i typically run the abacus dyno for fwd, all aspects for awd and the street for all part throttle stuff.all aspects dyno is better :) but the kid is super slack about setting up the appropriate amount of fans. so definitely...
you can get the tein basic new for about the same price as agx/eibach is new.The basic issue with lowering coils and struts and the loss of suspension travel due to lowering. You are just shortening the spring which in turn compresses the strut. Now you are halfway to bottomed out before you...
The "p" stands for port iirc meaning its a ported vac fitting. Only opening as you discovered at partial throttle openings.They use this as a way to control emissions devices etc. Not my area for sure!Like everyone else said, T into the FPR line. its a good spot.
No. The fuel pressure regulator will raise the fuel pressure 1:1. Which means for every lbs of boost you increase, it increases the fuel pressure 1 lbs as well.This is not enrichment, just keeping the acting fuel pressure at the injector nozzle the same as what you set it at {i set every efi...
if it was in limp mode you would have one forward gear..3rd i believe. all solenoids turned off is 3rd iirc.what do you mean it only works in PRN? does it stall in drive? or just not move? what happens in forward.
Cheap chinese aluminum. Poor manufacturing. Poor bonding of alum to steel yoke {not always necessary}
not a big fan of alu driveshafts. no one ever considers they are larger in diameter so even though they weigh less very well may have the same or more flywheel effect {inerta}As far as weight...
Sweet..ive been looking for that. I just bought a 1g auto that idles like crap. On all the writeups i found no one mentioned the diag jumper under the dash!
Well...the restrictor is not necessarily there for the sole benefit of the turbo.Following this holistic view lets start at the top. The valve train spins at half the speed of the crank. The valve train has less friction and therefore less lubrication demands of the bottom end. The oil pump is...
well as usual i see lots of parts and money being thrown around.heres my recipe to success.Holset.. good choice. do your research on which one u want.injectors... 720cc is about right for a 500whp car. you wont get much more out of them, but tuning will be easier than with HUGE injectors...
That was aimed towards TSI not you..but whatever.alum and stainless have nothing to do with each other. alu is the easiest metal to work with, stainless one of the hardest.
wow..you need a new car bro.theres no way to abate/stop that rust short of chemical dipping.its in structural places and cavities. Once water is allowed to enter rust starts and never stops.get a bug sprayer full of OSPHO and get to spraying!!! EVERYWHERE the nozzle will fit!this is what...
my vote is for headgasket.if the headgasket is blown from overheating, its usually bad enough for water to be pushed into the cylinders during idle causing it to smoke.if the headgasket is blown the other way {from boost, detonation etc basically from the combustion side} then the leak tends...
just take an O2 bung plug drill it and tap it for 1/8 npt. should use a 21/64 drill bit if i recall correctly.but why do you want egt where the o2 bung is at? Thats too far from the valve to do you any damn good. Who cares how hot the exhaust is 3 feet from the engine? egt post turbo is...
CAREFUL!!! Bead blasting anything that will ever have bearings in it. That shit gets everywhere, and youd be amazed how many engines/trannies get assembled with little pockets of blast media stuck in them.If you want to bead blast engine parts, i recomend using a pressure pot blaster and...
recirc tube off, it runs better? Sounds to me like its stupid rich for whatever reason.Check fuel pressure, plugs, man check it all!!!!!unless it simply has a bad maf.
your turbo is already wiped out.You better rebuild it before the wheel touches the housing and the whole thing is trash.Plain Bearing Turbos Never really require a restrictor. Esp if the oil return line is proper. I always use a -10.Any resistance in the oil return will cause oil to back...