I dialed in a set of Crower 64416 cams. Just so anyone reading this thread in the future knows the 0.050 lift that Crower states as measured at the tappet is actual measured at the valve itself.
Just picked up my head from the machine shop. I was wondering if there was as a concensis on the subject so I did a search and found this thread. My head is off a 92 Evo 1 so there was some debate about the correct length based on year. There are three specifications. 89-92 93-99 and 92-94.My...
I want to see this thing built. I'm all for a car that doesn't fall into previously explored territory and it would be even better to see it with awd as well. I also never saw this level of complaining when people have shown v8 builds in the past.
Personally I prefer to drop the transmission out the bottom and then pull the engine out the top. I find that doing it that way is easier than keeping them together and pulling them at an angle. Never even considered leaving the transmission in to pull an engine. As for pulling it with the right...
Tried to find info on the removal of the door buzzer today but there wasn't much to go on other than the vague v-faq. So for those that get tired of hearing the buzzer any time they have the key in and door open then here is what you do.1. Remove the knee pad below the steering wheel.
2...
I'v already got both setups the 90 style on the damaged engine and the 91 style on the engine to go in. I guess I will be sticking with the oil to air cooler.
Thanks for clarification on the years, My last talon was a 92 with the oil to water cooler and the cars vin comes up as a 91 so it must be the build date that gives it the 90 style. So from what I'm reading people would prefer the oil to air cooler.
Got a 1991 TSI AWD with a blown engine that came with a good engine to put in. My question is should I run the 91 style oil cooler or the 92 style cooler that is on the replacement engine.
I don't know the part number but when I had mine rebuilt I got the parts from Jacks Transmissions LLC — Welcome You can also check the vfaq or the vendors section on here.
I like to chuck the valves up in a drill and use Emory cloth to clean the carbon off, only takes about 15 seconds for a valve. Just watch out for the sealing surface.
I come from Alberta Canada and even a crappy TSI, AWD or GSX/T costs around 2k. There aren't really any shells available to buy, and I have been watching for them. I agree it's their car and they can do with it what they want but for those in a situation were a solid platform is scarce it is...
I have come across several build threads that start with a clean awd DSM that is built into a gutted RWD drag car. I can see the desire in using a clean shell but it pains me to see these otherwise fine cars taken off the road. My main question is why not just start with an ESI that won't be...
I'v been there with the time shortages of going to school full time and having my talon an hour and a half away, again money paid for some else's time could be paying for your new tools. So if you are gonna invest in your car all power to you and the talon. Anyways if the shop doesn't specialize...
I say rebuild with some NPR 2g pistons and start planning for a 14b, most parts can be had for a good price but DON'T cut costs on the gaskets or you will regret it.
I didn't see timing belt tension-er on the list so you will probably wanna add that, also a stock crank can easily handle that power. If stroking it why not go with a g4cs block instead and again save yourself the cost of a crank. In my opinion putting a car together is more fun than driving it...
My talon would run fine starting in -25 Celsius as long as the block heater had been on so count that out. The turbo trans most likely uses different CV shafts, so get a drivers side shaft from an awd so that it has the propeller shaft.
Here is the vfaq on DSM's go to the drive train then the page on installing a BMT LSD Insert. It will show the diff. Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page
From what I understand you would weld the spider gears together but the insert would probably be a much better choice if this car...
I gutted all the emissions stuff outta my car and it ran exactly like it did before. If you delete anything make sure to avoid vacuum leaks, it also cleaned up the bay a bit.
Assuming your fans are pushing air through the radiator and you have taped the car so there are no gaps between the radiator and intercooler haven't you made it so that either your blowing hot air out through the front of the car or there is little overall air flow because of the fans and air...
So my car had been progressively consuming more and more oil up to the point where I was going through 2 liters a tank. This led to the rebuild and balance of the 14B. I probably could have gotten a used 16g for the price of the rebuild but why buy some one else's problem. I also ported the oil...
I bolted the starter to the plate between the engine and trans, yes the plan is to go through the whole engine. I didn't screw up the testing, I did it more than once with the same results. It took 10 or more cycles to hit the wet 180 were as cylinder 2 hit 300 in just 4 cycles. I suspected...
No stickers that I was aware of, the guy at check out had said to my brother that he had wanted to get that engine cause he new it was running, but that doesn't say much since the one we pulled ran but knocked. After reading other posts and 96 420a-t reply we have chosen to put in new rings.
So I'm replacing the engine in my brother's esi with one from pick and pull cause the original has a serious knock to it, but before putting it in I did a compression test and got 160-180-150-60 on cylinders 1-4. After that I tried a wet test on cylinder 4 and got 180. To have a comparison I wet...
Electrical can be iffy I had a 91 ecu that I stuck in to see if it would change the way my car ran and it made it run like crap compared to the original, but the car still started. If you have the chance I would take the ecu out and check for blown capacitors. Other wise like stated check for...
14b is better as in it will flow more than a t25, but for that much you should be able to get a used 16g, and front mount, just look in the classifieds there are a lot of better deals there. A 1g blow off valve would be a good upgrade if you not running a big turbo since it is metal instead of...