Geez nice runs! What were the 60' times? What is the weight of the car?Yea AFC (less than) DSMLINK (less than) AEM EMS. DSMLINK lacks a lot that the AEM can provide. The DSMLINK always reminded me sort of as a between step before a full standalone (albeit VERY close)

well the valves them selves dont cost to much money... its the machining that will get you... But if you work at a machine shop then I doubt you pay much of anything for machining :)Sorry to hear about the motor and good luck with everything.

www.stealth316.comits all there, in fact he has a bunch of calculators that you can use that will give you what you need. At least that is how I do my compressor maps

PTE runs a line (the blue one) from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator directly. If you want to run your existing line then you will need to remove the blue line and cap off the source on the compressor housing.

Honestly I would run the 2g pistons with metal headgasket, so that the compression comes down a bit from 8.5:1. Right now my motor is around 8.5:1 and I dont even like tuning very much on higher boost levels.From dealing with DSMs anywhere from 7.5:1 to around 10:1 (it cranked out 275 psi...

How the hell did u have an almost 10 mph difference between the two runs? Thats like a 60+ horsepower difference?!

Nice time man.. I am very impressed by the 60'. Yea I think after you do the porting, intake and exhuast you should be good for mid 15s.Keep it up man I love to see quick NA 4G63s!

No ideas anyone?Someone told me it may be the rubber stock clutch line and to get a stainless replacement. I will admit I dont have the braided line and it is actually on order.However that doesnt seem to make sense to me, because if the stock rubber line was to expand when warm. Then it...

It may be something as simple as linkage. Check to make sure that the linkage (cables from the shifter to the transmission) didnt come lose. The linkage has been known to back out the 2 bolts that mount to the transmission. You will need to take off the intake hose to get the best view at this...

OK this is just getting sickening now. I have been playing around with the master cylinder adjustments to get the proper height but it seems like I just cant do it. Here is why:right now when the car is cold the clutch begins to grip at about a 1/2 inch off the floor. however once it warms...

Nice man, and good luck with everything to come!!!

I agree with the last two posts and will add this: In you case you are going to GLD (also my home track) and the rule is 11.49 or faster, so you will be fine. Good luck and have fun :)

The quarter mile MPH is pretty low. This is a 5-speed car right?I would say check for leaks first and maybe get a logger to ensure you are getting the proper amount of timing, knock, and an idea of A/F.Murray

And here is another one over a slightly longer range. I really like this one because it clearly shows how it takes much more power to improve your ETs the lower they are.Murray

Ok well I was bored a bit tonight and so I rounded up a few of my old slips of my car in its various states of tune. I then tweaked the "parameter senseitivety" (sp?) until I got the correct ET/MPH ratios for my car.Note please dont take this as an end all but rather as a more refined...

Yes in most cases the seals that go around the shaft in the center section wear out and the oil pressure (or water pressure) pushes oil (or again coolant/water) into the turbine housing where it then smokes. Thats why you will notice large amounts of smoke coming from the tailpipe but when you...

In lamest terms 118 means that your computer thinks you need 118% of a "normal" amount of fuel to keep the proper A/F ratio... Meaning you are lean.

Its somewhere on vfaq. www.vfaq.comI think its called like 16g turbo rebuild or something.. Dont worry JDM or not its the same center section..Murray <- Garret forever :D

Does it take well to AWD launches or the constant jarring of driving in the city... or driving in the city with AGXs and stiff springs?Other than possibly breaking alot I think its pretty cool!

As long as it was maintained and the engine isn't too tired. Mid-15.I have a friend that has just a K&N and runs low-mid 15s with a 91 GST.

Wow! Very impressive, its always funny to see how the 14b responds bosot wise to a built 4g63... You make it feel like a t25 =]BTW I am so jealous of your 119 on your ete32.. What was ur boost level to pull that off. Sounds like u have one helluva car.

And I love how you used my name... ass!LOL, I'm just kidding with you kid. This is the OWNER of teh screen name WhatsADSM.. Jake who originally posted just used my name when he was at the shop, so the last two posts are actually from "IgenLaser"Anyways, from what jake has been...

after comparing compressor maps through the different turbos I have found that the 2.4 will give me better street response than the 2.0 motor swap.

The RB swap is very good, but after looking through all the swaps, I have found a perfect power adder for this car. I will be using the ka, not the RB, not the SR20, not the CA, but the truck motor. The reason I didn't do the RB is because that motor is so expensive. All in all this is a full...

4 mph through the 1/8 is amazing!Good to hear man, and I agree with some good shifts in there you should be into the 11s.What is your whole setup?

Well for a quick update.. I went to the track and noticed that basically when I am using race gas the car is a totally different animal. I get all my timing back, I can lean it out a bit so it doesnt have to be so pig rich, and I can turn up the boost a bit.In any case I think sometime next...

Neighbors 2003 Viper GTS... Just gotta get this 50 trim running right =]

Ok well I changed out the transmission and tightened up the knock sensor a little. I will say that it seemed to help the partial throttle conditions alot... However I am still having knock problems, because I figured I would put my new injectors in (the pte 50 trim should be in next week)...

Thanks for the response guys... I think part of it may be the torque on the sensor....I went home and looked on the DSM manual and I swear, the spec is NOWHERE... I looked through all of the 1g Manuals.At first, when building the motor, I basically put a wrench on it and made the sensor...

I will agree that it is possible that I am getting real knock... As far as the 2 things you suggested tho Newlogics, I honestly dont think that is what is going on with mine.Remember this motor is about 2500 miles old and I PERSONALLY did the motor build. The pistons are brand spanking new...

Okay, I have been battling this problem for sometime now...Since my new motor build my car has been acting funny with knock sums. Basically I get P-Knock like noones business but it is especially true in the lower gears.For example when I let out the clutch in first gear and give it gas...

I think you are comparing apples with oranges here.In any case building a forged motor over a stock cast style motor will be a better choice if you plan to run higher boost.Otherwise, what appears to be the other part of your questionm is will the non-turbo block work with your turbo...

LOL, I couldn't agree more.BTW, from what I have heard the sleeper 16g is a hell of a turbo.. And actually now that I think about it, you may want to consider it as well as an option. It should have a little more potential than a 20g, and still look like a 16g (I also believe its in the same...

Thank god this weekend I was able to finish up on my car. I am actually really proud becuase I got my parts back from the machine shop on friday the 4th of april and had the car running on saturday the 12th.Here are a TON of pics you guys can just browse...

porting what?

http://www.turbofast.com.au/tfcalc.html :cool:

Honestly, I wouldnt worry about it, but watch that cylinder closely maybe do another compression check in a few months to make sure its not falling quickly..BTW if this is a 1g then that is good compression =]Murray

To compression check you will need a compression checker with is probably 30 dollars or so from a local auto parts store.... obviously better if you know someone with one..Other than that just make sure you have some basic sockets/screwdrivers and a spark plug socket (at most $5)check...

Sounds like the cv boot is ripped. It is the grease they use to lubricate the cv boot.Most times it is easier to just replace the whole axle (halfshaft) with a reconditioned one. You can generally buy them from autozone for around $80 and a core.If your car doesn't shake at certain...

Yup definately sounds like the mounts then...I believe the poly mounts are just inserts not the whole mount, however they are probably your best bet and should fix the problem. I honestly dont know how much extra vibration there will be but I doubt it is much more than stock. I think road...

Double check that the tranny will bolt up, both with the block and mounts and axles.If the axles dont fit I would assume you could take some from a 2.0 vehicle.If you are just trying to remove the tranny then the best way is out of the bottom. Basically remove all wires, both axles, all...

Seems a *little* low. Although the combination of colder air and winter gas usually will drop MPG a little.You could always get a new o2 sensor for relatively cheap from one of the mitsu vendors that offers a DSM discount.

Yes the pulley can be used to check against the cam gears, because the pulley is forced to be installed with teh mark at TDC and is directly related to the sprocket that the timing belt rides on.However you will probably need to get down there (i.e. maybe in the wheel well) and check...

Check at the injector resistor thingy (yup thats the technical term) to see if you are getting a signal, then if not you will need to run new wires from there. Otherwise check at the ECU to see if you are getting a signal, and if not run new wires from there.Finally, I don't know how this...

if you are hell bent on doing it, then buy a busted shell.. Maybe one that got in an accident or something. You are probably going to need the engine, ecu, all wiring, trans, mounts, axles, all fuel stuff, all ignition stuff. Definately not a "drop in" process.BTW if you are going to do the...

definately could be a motor mount, mine did the same thing when it was broken.Does the motor clunk if you shift hard between gears... like when racing? If so I would definately say amotor mount.Not sure about the 2Gs, but on the 1Gs the roll mount (the one facing the front of the car) is...

Ouch.. bring it back to the place that originally did the job.. It does sound like the tbelt skipped a tooth or two..Otherwise if it is more of a knocking sound rather than a clicking, you may have a lower end knock like a rod knock (possible the guy who did the new pistons/rering did...

Umm... first off make sure its not just normal operation. Turbos do make noise :D especially as boost pressure increases.Do you see smoke or anything when you drive or when you get on it?Finally if you are looking for a cheap replacement try the local junkyards or www.dsmtrader.com You...

First check for intake leaks. Make sure all of the hoses from the turbo to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the throttle body are secure and tight.When was the last time you changed the plugs/wires/fuel filter?Finally, if all that seems ok, and there are no check engine codes...

Like others have stated make sure you have fuel pressure and then run a compression test.Good luck