Well mate I'm in the same club. New Fuel Filter, Walbro 255, Stock Injectors, new TB. Car starts up, without me pushing the gas revs up to the 2500 or so range then dies from running lean.

You can compare the numbers on your ECU to this table: Eclipse Talon Laser Galant 3000GT Stealth ECU ID ReferenceIt is best to use the number on the white connector because theoretical the metal case can have a sticker that differs from the PCB.For a Turbo AWD the numbers you want are 4478...

This is really hot...what kind of brackets did you use?

So I found a fuel leak in my assembly. Specifically the metal line that makes a 90 degree bend has a small hole at the bend that lets fuel drip out.Should I be buying a whole new assembly or can I just get someone to weld a new 90 degree piece to the thing?(The thing had a hole at the...

The pump is a Walbro GS341...I have replaced the FPR already.But which walbro is that and do I need something special for it to work?

Could a badly wired or poorly grounded fuel pump cause a car to run very lean, like stalling out lean? Could a bad fuel filter?

the metal one...its not terrible (i think)

Well I have tried letting WD soaked and have put so much force into it that the hard line is now twisted ><I'll give it another try with the wooden bock idea, but i dunno if that'll do anything...its a real rusted PoSWell I broke an inch thick piece of wood, but putting a wrench under it...

So I wanted to remove my fuel pump but haven't been able to get the fitting to come off no matter how hard I try or how much WD40 I use. I've heard of cutting the hard line, but then what? And where should it be cut?

Alright so now with the stock map it is still doing the same thing, only now it reeks less.Also i found my spark plugs were too cold and replaced them with NGK Copper 6's. Also spark plug wire to cylinder 2 was in bad shape so i replaced those. It now runs for longer but still dies...

alright lets hope this is problem solved...now to go on a scavenger hunt...and something just came to me->the chip would have to be from a 1990 or else problems would arise->correct? Also stock compression would be 7.8:1? Stock fuel pressure 37 psi?

no..im running stock MAF and stock injectors..i literally just realized that i HAVE a chip that ISN'T stock.so how would I get a stock map on my ECU? Just find a place to buy the right chip?

Here is a picture of the ECU as it came shipped to me from a forum member:

YOu don't want bass out of your speakers. You get a subwoofer for that. It will allow you to hear music in higher quality, louder, and NOT blow your speakers.This is a blessing.Also you could be under powering them. Seeing as how your headunit is putting about 50W into each speaker MAXIMUM...

Alright so today i was going through the checklist again. I chekced every fuse and found my alternator blown and the fuse for it as well. New Alt:New Fuse:I also triple checked the coil wiring:new FPR:New gaskets for TB and elbow:Also i wanted to make sure...is my coil pack wired...

ground is attached, BISS is all the way unscrewed again. TPS voltage not measured because it Doesn't idle...thats the problem IPS being the little button that gets pressed when the TB closes?I was talking to my aunt and she said she had a similar problem with her Renault and that it was...

the straw i was grasping at with the FPR is that the car ran for LONGER with a vac leak and i was able to bring it back from near death.Now I have a PalmOS unit thats capable of being a datalogger, the question is do I need DSM Link as well.

Well with the new throttle body installed, the ISC on it is good...and Air no longer seems to be the problem.Now theres a more interesting set of symptoms.Before i could feather the throttle to keep it going, push in let off a bit push again ETC. Now after letting go of the throttle even a...

ISC coils being?

its a 1990 EPROM Federal ECU. It doesn't get a chance to warm up because it starts, goes to 2k RPMs, chills there for like 3 seconds then starts going down until it dies.Basically what i've done: 1) NO START -> new ECU, now it starts but dies slowly 2) Found out VAC lines for emissions are...

I see you have a lot of wrenches... If you don't know the size guess 12mm...more than half the bolts that i've needed to undo thus far are 12s.

The TPS was already set when i cleaned the TB (resistance method)The BISS is out as far as it will go, at that setting its supposed to give the highest amount of air...however the car doesn't get enough air to idle.I'm figuring that the idle mechanism is somehow dead...

Alright so i rotated it by hand, and the timing lines up.So i figured since it ran worse are i plugged the Vac leaks it wasn't getting enough air. So I screwed out the idle screw as far as it would go, and that made it not sputter when starting but it still dies.Holding open the throttle...

yeah i never use anything but ice when detailing. From car soap to clay to wax.

Timing Mark 1Timing Mark 2Where they're supposed to meetI would define that as timing being horribly off. Am i correct? Could this have cause damage?Also is there a guide on how to set the CAS when setting timing?Further i found a box and a relay. The box has not brand only the...

so in other words its meant to go from Purge Control valve to intake. However since i believe i am missing the Charcoal and the vac lines that go from the TB to the Purge Control Valve are closed off, there is no point for the hose and it can be removed?Also it would explain why the engine...

theres no fuel in it though... and its at the front of the car, whilst the tank is at the back.I always considered the fuel line going to the rail the only thing going from my tank. However i would like to know if i am mistaken.

from what tank? is it supposed to be connected to something?

how important that it be connected? it doesn't seem to run to anything. and i have no AC.

Alright so while installing the EGR block off i found a thick hose (like 3/8) that appears to reach towards the intake and traced it back to be under the battery. What is it?

I have heard good things about the 68HTA from FP Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP 68HTA Turbocharger for DSMmore specifically that it spools fast and can deliver lots of power.

I would run one...IF i had one.However my car came without Vac hoses, BCS, Timing Cover, Spark Wire Cover, Spare Tire, Jack, FSM, Trunk carpet/cover, working license plate lights, screws holding front bumper, AC fan on radiator...and probably more that i haven't found yet...

thanks Steve, ill run that along with the vac hoses once my block off plate comes.

to what screw on the tb is that ground attached? Also approximately what gauge is it?

Originally there was nothing. The clear hose was added by me the day I popped the hood.

There was NO hose going from the crankcase to the intake pipe. But it wasn't oil i'm pretty sure... It felt more like high temp grease. Same kind of silvery color and tendency to clump.

I already got brand new silicone hoses in all the diameters i'd need from RRE.So you're saying that grease around the shift linkage (i think?) doesn't mean anything?

So today i popped out all my old vacuum hoses and found a couple with holes. More interestingly though i found a LOT of grease. There was a lot if on the upper on in this picture (the one with the crumpled rubber cover. The folds of the rubber were full of the grease...this picture is post...

sort of curious about this as well.

I have a similar problem on a stock motor. Check your VAC hoses is what i've been told.Come to think of it the screw could be maladjusted or the throttle cable could be the wrong tension...

stock intake, fresh MAF though (the only thing weird is that the screw is covered in some grease. K&N filter, the air can etc got removed.I'm gonna try the hand crank but so far i looked and wasn't able to see time marks just two splotches of white paint (have no clue where thats from)...

ah thanks, well basically i don't have an MBC that i know of. There also would appear ot not be an EGR block off plate but ill check.Could the timing being off cause it to shake like it does when it drops from 2?

Alright so i got both those hoses taken care of. 3/8 in diameter. Gapped my spark plugs to .28 they're BRE7SE or something like that. Also i changed the oil.So this time when i started it it starts at 2k RPM and then slowly goes down to 1k and dies. If it drops below 2K it starts to clunk...

how long is the hose and what diameter? As i understand it the breather i can just put a filter on, or run a watch canWith the PCV i can run a catch can so it doesn't send oil into my intake, but it must sealed tight. Moreover what is the diameter of the hose i need?

Basically the car wasn't getting spark, so thanks to some help from the community here it was traced to an ECU. From the classifieds i got a new eprom ECU for the 90 AWD.Now the car starts but dies unless i keep the gas (air) above 1k rpm. I've revved it to 6k and its more or less fine. The...

well it sorta goes like I have the money, but not the time. I gotta have it running by next sunday.Thanks for that classified ill check it outAnother quick question. Is there a major difference between the 90 ECU and the 91-94 ECU?

How long would that take? I want to get it running ASAP...also whereabout would be the cost?

so you suggest ordering new caps and having them soldered in place?

Alright so I went under the hood and pull the ECU. The part number indicates its from a FWD Turbo. MD128625 E2T34474It smells sorta of fish and has a little bit or a brown corrosion type thing going from one of the caps. Whole board Closeup of the Chip The cap in question. Sorta hard to see...

Would i blatantly see if it was bad or would i have to wait for the caps to come?(Thanks for the advice BTW)