Sounds like a faulty MBC due to bad ball or spring or could just be a simple case of boost creep, it all depends on when it spikes. you can try running your mbc off a air conpressor and some vac hose rigged up to check its opening pressure. Ususally theyre hard pressed to be bad so it may be...

A Fuel Lab afpr is only 200ish, This possibly wouldnt work due to its size and the limited space at each end of the fuel rail. Also you would have to spend that saved money on a pressure gauge to set your base fuel pressure since that HKS does not come with one from what I saw.

Its possible as the shaft centers it. But be sure to note that the gears are pitched at an angle and can only go in one correct way without binding. VAFQ has more info on that. When installed you should be able to spin the stub shaft both ways with no binding. Be sure to loc-tite the stub shaft...

That small amount is ok. If it comes all the way out then whoever rebuilt it forgot to put a detent ball bearing in the end of the shaft to prevent it from sliding out. At which point you drop the rear cover and put one in. Sounds like yours it there so all is well.

Its an old type or alternative type of pcv system, Because the exhaust creates a vac it can function as the suction for your crank blow-by gasses. Used to be used on older drag cars but not seen these days due to emissions

its a china knock-off, its real but only good for a paperweight or conversation piece.Usually any ad on ebay that has to resort to using 18+ point font is some knock off company.This is my favorite part though:Note; The items in photographs are typical of the ones you wll receive...

I believe they are a M10 - 1.0. I picked up an aftermarket manifold which came with m10-1.25 bolts so I re-tapped the holes with little resistance.

RockAuto Auto Partsmy personal pref. Mounting brackets are cheap, the lower shock mount not so much. you can also check JNZ tuning

adjust your master rod under the dash if you havent already and then check after to be sure your check valve in your master cylinder isnt blocked by pushing the fork back after adjustment. The slave on our cars are self adjusting so be sure to also check for fork movement on pedal push...

Sounds like you got most of the emissions stuff. depending on your situation and possibly you mi9ssed it but you should have also blocked off the egr valave on the intake manifold if you wanted to. But that will throw a CEL without mod. No need to worry about the hard lines under the intake...

a set of $40 ebay slimfans works good too. usually ebay parts are junk but they've worked for me flawless and flow amazing.

If you pushing the pedal to WOT and holding it to redline or close to then its a boost leak as you suspect. As far as I understand first wont boost as high due to engine load requirements in first and the airflow inducted.

unless I won a free trip to willy wonka's DSMlink Chocolate Factory, V3 chips are red. Well mine was and Im still waiting for the invite.

If you log your front 02 and it also shows you running lean then you can adjust your maf or fuel trim settings depending on what doesnt match. you should be pulling about 40-50 Hz on a maf at idle and If i remember right about 32 Grams per rev. hesitation on accel sounds like it could be a fuel...

No way to tell specifically but a loose belt could jump possibly. Just be sure to check the tension to spec after install with a ruler or caliper. The exhaust cam has a tendency to want to rock back two teeth upon belt install so that may have been the cause too. Goo thing the valves are ok !

sounds like you may have a small leak somewhere pre sensor. mine does the same but link says my startup is in the 13's . the display goes blank --- due to not enough input but once you throttle it a bit it should kick back on. To be honest the WB is only very useful when doing open loop...

When interfacing the WB with the ECU you need to buffer it due to the way AEM WB sees and sends voltage to the ECU for readout. ECM tuning has the buffer and radio shack does too possibly. Theres a few posts out there about wiring it in. I havent done mine yet due to a leaky DP gasket...

A stock setup should have about 1-2 inches of free play before the slave rod begins to move basically putting it closer to top. you can adjust the master push rod under your dash to lower the point if its too high, just be sure to have enough room for full disengagement, you'll know if you need...

Could be the 02 sensor for the WB. I ve got a slight leak I am fixing in a couple days and right now my WB reads about 2 points leaner than actual. what does link say for your 02 in closed loop?

Your wastegate wouldnt give you a vacuum leak, but maybe the seal in it was loose if your spool did increase. Some seal somewhere probably got a good jolt from the kick of the studderbox and may have reseated possibly. Good fortune but I wouldnt be suprised if it poked its ugly head again. Stock...

I would imagine the high pitched squeal at shut off is related? The only guess I can give you based on a healthy running engine is that your pcv valve might be gummed up or blocked causing excess crankcase pressure to slowly leak by after shutoff.

So you got a speeding ticket and decided a DSM was a safer bet? Thats like admitting your and alcoholic because you drink too much beer and figure drinking mass quantities of wine will solve the problem ;)I think that tach could be used as a sundial. If you mod the cluster and put it there it...

I run my stock 6 bolt at 20 psi all day safely. any more and the wear of 106k may start to show. a fresh stock rebuild can hold 25-30 or more. but 400-500 is the general consensus for power. Just dont do what many people do and chalk the car breaking down to a "DSM Reliability Issue" if you push...

12VDC/10A DPDT Plug-in Relay - RadioShack.comrun a 10 gauge wire directly from the battery and the interrupt connection to your headlights and a keyed 12 power line (ie: cig lighter) for a super clean install with the above relay.

If you have deleted the emissions and capped it all off then your leak is the egr valve. some guys cut a coke can and block it for good, ghetto but it works. Since you got a place coming just get a short peice of vacuum tubing and loop the two nipples or crush them closed. However int he mean...

You have to be at almost WOT to really get enough airflow in first to make some decent boost before you hit redline due to such a small window in 1st. But if your getting boost in every other gear then try a BLT but minus a major leak you should be good. Also get some new cam seals and a catchcan.

Not reliably, at the moment your car still assumes you have your stock injectors and will add fuel as if your new injectors flowed the same. without dialing them down you will run rich. also once you turn up the boost adjusting for knock is essential too. you can try a chip on the cheap side or...

Theres a little sheet that comes with them. Big difference is the torque using the moly lube or regular motor oil. I thought I was smart getting all 6 point craftsman sockets until I got the ARP'sThe washers can be a pain if you dont put them on the head first on a 1g, the springs get in the way

Sadly no, The AFPR is based on rpm specific and boost specific feedback. under boost the AFPR matches the fuel 1 psi to 1 which would cause your oil pressure to rise correctly in theory but not to the cars needs. When you first start a cold car the oil pressure is in the 80-100 psi range and...

The measurements are in Centimeter based on diameter or width. If its unmodified there's a bunch of charts out there with all the pre-determines specs for a variety of turboshttp://www.fftec.com/EVOIII16Gspecs.html http://www.ztechz.net/id1.html...

Was the alternator new or used? On alternators are voltage regulators that usually go bad and cause this symptom. If the alternator is spun fast enough it will hold charge but at idle rpm's it will start to lose voltage. Over time you will see a big decrease and one day the alt may day. If its...

Whistling indicates moving air, check the Vacuum ports on the Intake Mani as there is one right behind the coil pack. IF those are good then check the tightness of the intake manifold bolts and the gasket. Your vacuum should read 17-20 hg.

Its pretty straight forward for the timing part, just make sure to get it the cams and crank at TDC and the dumb oil pump if the balance shafts are still in. all marks are on the block and head. the only thing the haynes manual omits is using a large flat blade screwdriver to wedge the tension...

At what point does it backfire? In not too sure about the gas light unless your low on gas it doesn't signal much else. If he is running stock and a bigger turbo then somewhere in the fuel supply system is an inconsistency. I cant speak for the stock fuel pressure solenoid but the aftermarket...

Its pretty easy to change, just a little tight if you have big hands. There's no good way to tell its age easily as I had one on a honda for 200k miles and it looked new. Make sure to do the idler and tensioner w/ pulley too since our dumb hydraulic tensioners wear out. You can always opt for...

Maybe some oil from the head or a leaky valve cover. Regardless some sort of liquid PS or Oil tried to lube up around 90 amps of juice like dropping a radio into the tub. Most likely the core grounded out to the case via liquid which blew your voltage regulator.Unless you have some sort of...

At the bottom of your Oil Filter Housing is a small dinner bell shaped object, That is your Oil Pressure Sending Unit. theres a cheap and ineffective plastice covered metal clip that gets the signal that has probably popped off due to age. I exacto'd a hole on the far side and ran a cotter pin...

OEM is recommended but if your over then most likely you'll find more aftermarket. Basically if your not sure of the head and block surface being perfect then run composite or organic, but if your pushing high boost and you had some surfacing done run a MLS Gasket instead. Composite should suit...

Just make sure the surface of the PP is not too scored or pitted and is smooth and that the fingers are in good condition and not bent or damaged, usually the splines are ok. Though it is recommended to get your flywheel stepped when you get a new clutch and keep the old wheel, some guys have...

There is a detent and ball that hold this into place. If the trans was rebuilt and this was left out it should be ok. However if its a stock trans then you may have some loose floating parts abroad. Im not too keen on the trans yet, but I believe you may be able to take off the back cover and look.

Sounds like an alternator possibly, should take it to autozone and have the alt bench tested. as for the idel, once the car is warmed up you can try adjusting the BISS on the throttle body under the black cap on top. Get your idle to 850. But get your alt fixed first since that will mess up your...

Define high? Idle should be about 18-20 psi and driving should take it up to 70-90 depending on rpm. But you should be running some 5 or 10 weight. I run 10w30 in the winter and 40 in the summer

depending on your gas, 16-19 and a a/f ratio of 11.1 is ideal for a WOT pull in third. The more you can get away with the more power you make, but usually any higher on regular gas and people start seeing knock.Your duty cycles should be fine.

Not at all. Most people tap their J-pipe if they dont have a port already, attempting to get it as close to the initial boost source. Many people have tapped it close to the intake mani with little issues so you should be fine as close as you are. Just make sure you secure the hose so it doesn't...

I believe 18.7-18.9 is stock on a warmed up engine under no load and no accessories on. Sounds like there may be another. Granted thats perfect world so 17-19 is healthy

If your looking more street then the 264/272 combo will work good. But with the turbo you have planned, the 272/272 would make that puppy scream up top.

any direction is ok, but down is more logical to keep dust, water and random fluids out.

Once you pulla sensor it throws a CEL and you wont pass ODB2 inspection. Pending you have a way to turn it off, the only two sensors in your emissions system are the EGR on your intake manifold which you can get a blockoff plate to replace and for the 2g I believe the Rear 02 is also emissions...

Usually a manufacturer has their own dimensions and two different brands can cause conflicts. If you pick up some 3" pipe and some flanges and mark the angles you can have someone fab it up for you. I dont know of any 3" adapters personally and ended up in the same scenario so made something myself.

DSMLink all the way, dont go lite either you will hate it. Theres a lot of support with it and its pretty simple once you spend some time with it. Its fully customizable so you can upgrade in the future you fuel or air system and its the most comprehensive logging and data stream to see exactly...