Yeah ive tried that, seems as tho everything is giving me the same pinouts.. but I know that is not correct.. and whats even more frustrating is even the Chrysler service manuals are wrong when it comes to wire color/designation.

Would u happen to remember which pins they were or know of a place that I can get a direct answer?

Okay guys.. now b4 I get flamed and told that it ABSOLUTELY WILL NOT WORK, please read this entirely.I recently just aquired a 97 420a speed Talon, and while I was washing the engine bay eariler, I happened to remember that I have both a 97-99 SOHC neon Mopar performance ecu and a 96 dohc...

What all is needed to Turbo a 2.4l spyder using 4g63 Turbo parts?? Is there any tuning issues/general issues as to not boost one?

Anyone know the proper formula?

T/a bolt pattern is 5*127. Dsm bolt pattern is 5*114.3

i do not have a serial port, and i log with tactrix... im just looing for info on what wire in the ecu i run the white wire from the uego to. Then, in evoscan, what values do i change.

What pin of the ecu do i wire the wideband into? And what do i have to change in evoscan to log an accurate afr?

it doesnt take me to either, just takes me to thanks for logging in.

i would have evoscan if it would process my order. I login, and choose add to cart, then checkout, and nothing... no emails, or anything..

Cannot post log. i log with CLANZERS, and it wont save log..

The only reason im asking is because i downloaded the newest rom/def combo. And when i scale my injectors to the 560's that are in my car, it runs so lean it damn near wont idle. I have to scale the evo injectors to 478 with a latency of -.048 just so it will idle and my fuel trims wil be ok...

I am in dire need of maf scaling, maf size, and maf adder tables for a factory dsm maf. Please and thank you.

I just disabled the rear o2, pulled that pin out of the ecu, snipped the wire in half, and repinned it to 79. Works like a champ... lol

I am also having a similar problem as listed above. Except, when i scale my injectors (MD560) and set the -.048 Lacency, my car will barely idle. I have to set them at 450cc and even then, my car wont run out throughout the rpm range like it should.

Okay, i got it to show me everything. My next question is, which map will my car run on? The only reason i ask this is because the BIG MAPS section is all jumbled numbers. Also, for some reason, i have to scale my evo560cc injectors down to 450's just to idle, then anything after 15psi it runs...

Okay guys, new to flashing, but i am running into a reoccuring problem. i downloaded http://ceddy.us/wp-content/uploads/CeddyMods_1v9Cb.rar and my ecuflash screen/ceddymods dosent include half the stuff shown in pic... the only thing mine shows is launch control, launch control antilag, cel on...

Maybe in your city autozone dont do global obd2 scans. I know of atleast 2 or 3 dozen autozones, advance auto's, etc that still do it around where I'm at. I actually just called a friend that works at an Auto Zone and he says there shouldn't be any reason for them to stop. Any who, also check...

Going ecuflash as soon as I find a recently priced h8. Tired of chasing problems. My car needs a good tune anyways.

Yes CEL, P0300.Currently using a 95 EPROM w/green top CAS. I was using a green top CAS with 98 H8 ECU and even did it with that ECU.Thinking about swapping to a black top CAS if i can find one reasonably cheap.

Swapped wires last night, no change. Any other suggestions?

okay guys i will do this today. I really hope this fixes it because driving the car knowing its not up to par just pisses me off. Im just having a hard time understanding why these wires being backwards would cause an injector to lose power. Also, would a bad resistor box do the same thing...

I had a 98 H8 ECU in my car until it took a dump on me, then I changed back to my 95EPROM. It did it on both ECUs.What pins need to be swapped out and how hard are the connectors to de-pin without messing them up?

At a cruise, usually anytime the RPMs stay at or around 3k my car will randomly sputter. I've narrowed it down to its losing either power or ground to an injector. I've tested it several different times, it always affects number 2 OR 3 injector never both at same time, and not always repeatedly...

Act 2600 is being installed right now... so if anyone wants to meet up around chillicothe or lancaster, id be game.... it'll be the first time the car has been out in awhile so im excited as hell..

okay,... i need help deciding on a clutch but unsure of which one will suit my car best... the car wont see the track a whole lot... mainly just a dd and weekend traffic light car... mods include= 3in exhaust, P.R. external dump o2housing, FP 68hta, ported 7bolt intake mani, FMIC, gm...

Upgrades would be to rip it out lol, I had a 3000gt that did the same exact thing after an aftermarket alarm was installed. Rip it out and say goodbye to no start issues

removing the lettering is easy, body shops use eraser wheels, then lightly buff the area where the badges used to be....

also, just a thought... are you running a 1g cam sensor??? I had an erratic when i swapped to a 1g CAS, because of poorly insulated connections, causing a resistance through the Temp sensor and Coil packs..... again, thought a thought...

i installed mine about 8 inches down from o2 housing over a year ago... never have i had an issue with it either... also ran my wires with the factory o2 sensor around the motor for a cleaner look... i can still snap a shot of it if needed

upgrade to poly motor mounts... replace lower control arm bushings, and get some new struts, thats the best things you can do for it...

thank you for the info... guess that sums it up

honestly with video to back it up, i can prove through my wideband that a non recirculated hks ssq and a stock 1g act the exact same between shifts. BUT the hks ssq is the only one i'd reccommend if going non recirc... my turbosmart really messes with the cars idle after shifts, but the hks...

anyone in here know anybody who is able to burn, chip and socket a 420a ecu? or are they flashable like the newer 4g63 ecu's?

ive got one that ill trade for a good 14b with some boot or a mhi big 16g...

Okay who does these eprom burns around central Ohio?

i want to know the cheapest way to set up a 2 step rev control on my 95 tsi awd... plain and simple....

im thinking of a couple things, just from my short experience... bad/poor idle assoicated with shitty startup: bad temp sensor and or broken connectors... i had a 90rst and it had 3 sensors on thermostat housing and one on radiator... are you sure the gaskets you made didnt rip or anything? also...

ok, just bought a 2ga talon awd that is equipped with this turbo, what kind of boost pressures can i run safely with this turbo? the reason i ask is because every once in a while it creeps to around 12-13 and i just dont wanna blow this car up seeing as its my dd.... and proof would be great NO...

that statement just really made my day...haha lol

okay guys... found my problem... it was either the intake mani gasket or lower injector seals... i replaced both when i pulled my intake. now, the car at a 900rpm idle, i hold a constant 20-22 in-hg. boosts fine and pulls hard again...

OKAY... i also have read that if the boost control silenoids arent hooked up you will have low vaccumm readings??? i dont understand this concept, but seeing as my car doesnt idle rough/high/or anything out of the normal, i cannot forsee it being a leak....

factory first gen cams, that i know of... the motor thats in my car is a bit of a freak... much like the person who owned it before me... so its hard to tell exact specs of this motor... i just did a minor overhaul of this motor, and the ONLY gasket that wasnt changed was the intake mani... how...

whats your guys vaccumm gauges say when the car is at an idle? mine currently sits at 11 STEADY... unsure if this is normal or not... also, anything past 3/4 throttle it sputters... overall the whole time its running, you can smell raw fuel... i dont have my wideband bunged into my new downpipe...

i feel the same way^^ that car looks damn nice keep it the way it is...

thanks. yeah now that you say something about that, it does sound like a good idea. any other suggestions??

Okay, this winter before the first snow, i will be ripping back into the laser already to fix stuff i should have fixed when i swapped the motor. also a great time to do all maintenance and clean up a little under the hood.the car already has a set of lightweight 17in wheels, megan racing...

you need to get those coolant temp sensors fixed right away... this is the reason for your car not running... providing the symptoms you described.... get those fixed and she'll run again....

actually ive seen a 600hp built crx prematurely spin rod bearings due to over torquing the rod caps on a 4340 crank with forged rods..... so yes it is possible to "smash" the bearings

start pulling injector plugs.... pull one at a time..see if the idle changes, if it does and starts idling worse, then its not that one, but if ## idle doesnt change then u have a bad injector.... simple test