Does anyone in NEW JERSEY have a extra 1g head they wanna sell?

Thanks. Gonna try when I get home. When the plug was installed it screwed in nice and easy.. rush is my enemy. I can see the rust on the hex that came out. I got it to move a qtr turn and that's it. So I ordered a double edged extrctor thinking Mabe I could turn it back and...

With my luck the whole car goes on fire. I'm go na go try in a few. I'm so upset about this. Everything was going good. I got it insured and registered. Now this. UGHHHH 😢🔫.

If a fire starts do I let it burn out or spray it with a fire extinguisher. I know these are stupid questions and someone is gonna make fun of me for them.

Are you saying that sarcastically? Lol Being that I've had it soaking for a while with pb. Lol

I've tried pb and letting it soak for atleast a week

The reason it's stuck is it's been in there for a while. Some how water got on the plug and rustedI had the engine rebuilt about 11 years ago when I was 19years old. Then I moved out of my parents and got a daily driver. So my eclipse just sat. Now I'm getting it on the road and back...

That was plan. I have a propane torch. I was just nervous that if I stick the torch down the spark plug whole that the engine would explode or something. Lol. I'm always thinking the worse.. I also have a easy out. I probly spent $60 on different easy outs. And freeze spray and pb...

I'm getting down to my ideas. My spark plug snapped and the thread are stuck in the head. I got it to budge a little bit with a sqaure easy out but it's not moving anymore. I seen people use a torch and then the threads come out pretty easy. My question is can I put a torch down to...

Thank. I think I fixed the coolant problem. Did you read the post? And this is my 3rd eclipse and I never had a plug snap.

I wish I put them in. Because I never seized one before this either.And rust is the devil's work in this case. Idk how only this spark plug has rust on it. The other 3 are clean and I changed with no problem.

Lol. I sorta made that word up. I already bought the #5 easy out and I got the threads to turn about a qtr turn. The reason i was asking about a "easy in" is so I can turn the threads back that qtr turn and then out again.I was able to find a "double edge extractor" that is use for...

I've never had a plug snap on me. Just waiting on a easy in. I got a qtr turn loosing on the threads. And it won't move. So I ordered "easy ins". So I can turn it back a qtr turn. Then out a qtr a hopefully slowly work it out.

No i got hung up pretty damn bad. Since the engine was built, the builders didn't put anti seize on the plugs. Can you guess what happened next!? 😢🔫.

So am I. I sorta gotta stuck in another bad snag.. I don't even wanna say anything.Now that it can get coolant back into the system it's not gonna over heat.

I think I solved my problem. The return hose in the overflow container wasnt touching the bottom and wasnt connected as it keep falling off. So I cut a hose long enough to touch the bottom of the overflow. And used a hose clamp to connect it so it dosnt fall off anymore. I will let you...

No. When my rad cap released pressure my coolant fills the overflow reservoir. But because the return hose was off it couldn't get back into the engine.

I don't see any corrosion. I think my problem is the hose in the overflow keeps falling off so the hot coolant can enter the overflow but since the hose isn't connected it can't go back when the system cools.

It was 14psi. My bad. I thought it was at 12 on the gauge.

Im pretty sure it was a metal FelPRO. And yes the head was check and ported and polished. Also the block was check when it was at the machine shop. If the head gasket was bad wouldn't I have either white smoke from the exhaust or coolant mixing with the oil? The oil is as gold as new...

My heat works great. I just thought of something. Soo when the coolant expands and there's to much in the system it pushes it into the overflow reservoir.. and when it cools it's suppose to pull coolant back from the reservoir. Well the hose that's supposed to be connect to the cap...

I understand the point of pressure testing is to see if it holds pressure. I put 12psi in and it held with no drop in pressure..I make sure the rad is full before I go out. And within 10 minutes of driving it starts to get hot and then my reservoir fills up... Believe me I'm looking hard...

I just put a brand new thermostatWhich way should the jiggle valve face. Mine is at 3:00 oclockIf the head gasket was bad wouldn't I have coolant in the oil.It's also a brand new head gasketI had the reservoir filled to the minimum mark and I went for 10 minute drive and checked it and...

I would hear it leak or the pressure gauge would go down when I did the coolant pressure test. It stayed at 13psi for over 20minutesI mean like the system is full and after I go for a ten minute regular drive the coolant leaves the system and fills the reservoir

The problem is it starts to over heat because it pushes so much coolant out. I cant drive it for more then 15minutes without it starting to get hot. And it's because the coolant is low. Everytime I wanna run it I have to top off the coolant first..

I bought a new stock cap and even just tested it with this tester and this cap isn't leaking.Any recommendations were to get one?I've also changed my oil checking for coolant mixed in it. And it's gold as new... And no smoke out of the exhaust.

Ok so for a while I keep loosing coolant.. but there isn't a puddle on the ground or anywhere wet in the engine.. so I was told Mabe the heater core is leaking. So I bought a coolant pressure tester pump. And it's holding 12psi no problem. What should I look at next?Coolant pressure

Is this the same for a 1g about the jiggle valve facing up?

I already unplugged the clutch switch. Thanks tho. 👍

I have to wiggle it to get the electrical system to work. It just clicks as if the starter is bad. But I replaced it with a brand new one. Once I turn the key one and off a couple times it will crank and then fire. But sometimes when I turn the key it does nothing so I have to...

After talking to many people on here, nobody told me the fast idle air could be stuck open causing my idle surge. My next problem is when I go to start the car sometimes I have to wiggle they key back and forth for it to start. I've replaced the starter and it still does the same thing...

I don't wanna sound dumb but how do I loop the heater core lines to check? And wouldnt me doing a compression test tell me if I'm leaking also? Just asking. Thanks for all the help. I'm gonna look under the dash tommro and see if maybe the carpet is wet. Also my car dosnt have AC.

Can I check if it's leaking with that coolant pressure tester?? I can have someone pump it up and I can try and listen under the dash?

The whole dash has to come off. Ughhhh.

Only a little bit. I'm just getting the car back on the road. I got insurance but now I have to wait till may 6th to get registration and plates because of the DMV is appointment only now cause of the virus. I do wanna say the heat dos smell sweet thoAs I remember tho it starts to over...

What should I be smelling at the the exhaust? Like a burning coolant smell?. It just smells rich to me.. and no I haven't checked the heater core. Is that behind the glove box? I know my heat works good.

When I open the coolant cap it's always low. And there isn't any leaks. But I'm not seeing a milky oil cap. Or coolant in my oil. Or white smoke. I'm hoping trying to retorque it will help. It has a couple hundred miles on the engine.

Removed the shrader valve from the cylinder compression tester?It only had a couple hundred miles on the build. I was.hoping the head just needed a little tighting

.Would this kit be ok. And then when I pump it up it should hold at 13psii right?

I have a cyclinder compression tester.

I think I may have a head gasket leak. I'm loosing a little coolant. But no smoke from the exhaust. And no Milky good under oil cap and the oil dosnt look like any is in it

No I don't have ecmlink. Here's one more question I have. I had the engine rebuilt and the head rebuilt. I should probly check the head bolts and make sure they are still fully torqued.. sooo all I have to do it take the valve cover off correct? And start at the center and work my way out.

Ok. I'm so happy I got my car going. There was something wrong with the fiav. It kept leaking coolant into the throttle body. So I got a block off plate. And made sure I have no boost leaks. And it's all good. The one question I have is what does it do if you move your TPS sensor. Mine...

I will give that a try. Thank you. Also Mabe you know the answer. The fuel filter seems pretty simple to change as it's right on the fire wall. As long as my fuel rail gauge says no pressure am I ok to unscrew it?

It's a rubber piece. I thought it went somewhere in the hatch..

Yes I disconnected the clutch switch at the pedal. Still does it. I was thinking the key cylinder also. Just seeing if anybody says anything different

So SOMETIMES when I go to start my car and turn the key the starter dosnt turn. So I have to turn the key on and off and bunch of times then the starter will turn. I've replaced the starter and it still does the same things. I've also checked all my grounded points. There good. Could it be...

The bolts don't bottom out.. the tighten down good. It's just the TB could be to much to the left and leak a little boost. Or to much to the right and leak.. or to far to the top and leak. Or to far to the bottom and leak.. and I have another throttle body. The holes are the exact same...

It was running fine before. I have a second throttle Bodie and the holes are the same size. PLEASE READ #4I did buy another TB. the holes are the same size.People are confused because noone has read the posts above. POST 4.. That guy explained why it's has some play.. If people...

Have you read any of the above comments? Check out #4. He understood what I was saying.. the TB bolt holes are pretty big and the throttle body would dangle.