It should be on the same citcuit as all your other lights. If I remember right there is a plug-in from those to the main harness behind the bumper support. There might be corrosion on the pins or just be unpluged all together
If your computer isn't eprom it will need to be changed and if it is then you will need to get it socketed and then you can either get a new chip programmed to your setup or go with dsmlink and tune at will. As far as the maf you can do what you want both work well.
I think around 20 millieamps is normal, anything over that something is drawing power. And like coryd21 said, just start pulling fuses until it drops. Good luck
This may seem like a stupid question but can I run denso 545cc injectors? They are 13.7ohms and the stock injectors are low ohm injectors (not sure of the exact number). Will that be to high of resistance for my 90 GSX?
just got my car back together and the maft, safc2 hooked up and set to a starting point and i have a few problems. i let the car warm up to o/t and it idles around 1200 rpm but on my safc2 it says like 600-700 rpm and every once and awhile it will idle down and a/f ratio will just to 18:1+. so...
make sure the alt. fuse is good still. it is possible you have something drawing your battery down when its not running. if the fuse is good, take a test light, disconnect the positive battery cable and put the test light from the battery positive to the positive cable. if it lights up you have...
The first ring is the smaller one with the "shinny" edge, the all black thicker one goes in the second groove. The bevelled edge goes up and I think you get how the oil ring go on. Hope this helps.
I would say if your manifold is getting red hot then your exhaust plugged up some where, that would heat up your head and what is bolted to the head, the t-stat houseing. That would cause the coolant to get very hot and it can't get rid of the heat fast enogh. So check your exhaust to see if it...
i'm in the process of getting rid of the rear wiper as well. i don't have to worry about snow though cause i only drive my mitsu in the non winter seasons. looks very good though, hopefully mine turns out that good!
so just to be safe i will switch out the 95 pistons with evo 9 pistons. i was going back and forth between the two anyways. now another question to throw at you guys, are the non turbo and turbo rods the same material? i know they are the same length and everything but i heard from someone that...
i have read a few things and i can't really find what i'm looking for or a straight answer. i have a perfectly good non turbo block sitting in my shop and i am planning a build and i need to know if i can use it without installing oil squirters. i am shooting for 350-400 hp and i will be using...
ok i feel really stupid, i made i plate, put it on and now it runs. the idle is very high but it stays running. but now i noticed it is leaking coolant from the back side on the motor right above were the A/C bracket would go so i have to rip the timing cover back off to see where it is coming...
umm no not my first timing belt job, ive been fixing car almost every day for the last five years so i do know cars but this is my first turboed DSM/car. not trying to be a dick, just letting you know. i was reading other posts and it just hit me, i was going to block off the EGR and i haven't...
i'm confused, i bought the car and had to put it back together, and now that it is together i can start it, it revs to like 3500-4000ish and dies BUT i can keep it going if i give it gas.
ok, so i bought the car last summer and the guy was in the middle of doing a headgasket. i know the head went to a machine shop and there is a new gasket in there, i put new timing stuff in (belts, pullys), and i put a 16g on, and am running a GM maf and translator and i have an EPROM...
you can not use R134A in an R12 system. as for the compressor locking up, 134a can't move the r12 oil because it is to heavy so thats why you keep wrecking compressors. either get it retro fitted for 134a or put r12 in it. and if you already retro fitted then you still have some old oil in the...
a bad pressure switch will cause both your idle problem and the a/c cycling continuously. when the a/c compressor kicks on the pressure switch will tell the computer to kick up the idle and at the same time the compressor kicks on the computer doesn't see the pressure go up to what it wants so...
rotors warp because they get really hot and if you just get them turned then all of the hot spots are still there and they will most likely warp again. just save yourself the hassle and put new ones on.
the solenoid for the starter in junk. the click you are hearing is the solenoid trying to engage. get a new starter or just have yours rebuilt and be on your way
i'm thinking that something shorted out in your ecu, if it is suppose to ground the relay and it has power there then the ecu is junk. open it up and see if there are any burn marks on the board.
to install them it needs to be unloaded but if you are talking about adjusting them it doesn't matter. i will say it is a little easier to adjust them with some weight off of the suspension. hope this helps
it sounds like your strut plates aren't working like they are suppose to be. the plate is suppose to turn while you are turning the steering wheel but on yours it sounds like they are not turning and while you are turning the spring is sliding on the plate. i hope that all makes sense. the...
boost92you need to have that aligned, when you put positive camber to a tire and not set toe the tires will be toed out very bad, hence the inside wear to your tires. get it aligned ASAP
the timing wouldn't matter if the piston was hitting the spark plug, it would smash the valve if were out of time. i would put the right NGKs in there and see what happens.