Its true-Ive never seen water cause a spun bearing (besides if the car was run with milky oil due to water contamination for an extended amount of time. Id have filled a cylinder with water and cranked it! lol-insurance fraud :(
Rubber lines tend to swell with time. ALSO-if it gets worse when it gets warm youre getting fade-due to bad fluid (water in it) as brake fluid is anhydrous and attracts it. It then lowers the boiling point. Put some synthetic fluid in there-thatll help with the new line.
I heard that the installation of that kit makes your vision get all blurry like paul walker in the fast and the furious. Id be careful-that just cant be safe....werd
whats in there thats going to rust? valves, valve seats, springs, spring cups, followers, lash adjusters, retainers, etc, etc. NO SIR! use a solvent-petroleum based-some sea foam (lol) will eat the carbon away, so will pb blaster. as for lapping, it requires the springs be taken out. basically...
i was under the impression that the later motors had a propensity for crank walk at higher mileages, as well as being weaker! Not that itll matter on a mostly stock car, just sayin'. Im sure thats why people are swinging from the cohones of the 6 bolts.
sounds like a good oppurtunity to buy the larger calipers so you can use the better rotors-larger rotors=windshield face plant for unsuspecting passengers!
is the fuel pump coming on? some vehicles (namely fords) have a relay in them that trips during a collision/bump/messing around causing the fuel pump to die to avoid fires (again, for collision). If the timing is good, and it just died, check for spark, and fuel pressure at the rail.
And Im not sure if your car has a seperate sending unit for the gauge, but on many vehicles there is both a sensor (for the ecm) and a sending unit (for the gauge) if you have an option, get the sensor, not the sending unit.
coolant temperature sensor (ect) . It determines when to send the ecm into closed loop operation (when it warms up). It changes the air fuel ratio according to the temperature of the coolant. See if its damaged, or test it. Just an idea.
turn the ac on. If the fans dont come on, you're that much closer to fixing the problem! (the ac forces the fans into high speed operation-if they dont come on with the ac (assuming it works) then we can bet theyre not coming on when the temperature dictates.)
I have a ginormous superduty-40" tires and a 10" lift. I was playing in a flooded road-water was up to the bottom of the doors-well a car saw me and figured my truck was stock height and as such the water was shallow-it was hysterical-lol.
ooh-I had this happen before on a chrysler. I installed the transmission and it had a grinding noise. turns out the plate that goes behind the flywheel got bent (the sheetmetal spacer plate between the motor and trans) and was rubbing, causing a noise. Just a suggestion.
also, do your fans work at both high and low speeds? the fans should be on high when the ac is on-when they come on, turn the ac on and see if they speed up.
is your thermstat stuck? Thatll cause hoses to balloon. Air will compress before itll inflate a hose-cooling systems are generally low pressure (sub 20psi) Or it could be the hose is just old and bad.
does the compression gauge move at all? Does it flutter? Even burned rings should get you someting. Sounds like a valve is bent or stuck or the pistons got an actual hole in it. regardless, dont drive the car. Oil pouring out the exhaust will catch fire.
Ive definately had TOBS cause audible knocks when engaging or disengaging. Although Im a bit ignorant to 4g63s, I cant imagine it doesnt have some sort of bushing/bearing for the input shaft. Is it grinding while starting? when its running, if you engage the starter do you notice a change in...
You might notice the car becomes a bit less stable in the corners, but its not dangerous. Like the name suggests, its an anti sway bar. sometimes removing or disconnceting them will get you some traction if its an issue, but thats generally front bars on highly modded RWD cars.
Should be fairly straight forward. Buy a can of 134a with UV dye, and check for leaks-If you dont find any, Id bet your fans arent operating properly. However, the only reason for the compressor to kick on and off would be inadequate pressure, or perhaps a faulty high side pressure sensor.
Does it go away if you turn the car abruptly at speed? try left, and right. Depending on if it goes away it could be a wheel bearing. Pick the car up in the air, put something near each tire (or better yet-get a gauge) and check for runout.
when I said that I was referring to the carbon on the valve seat still being there (dull area), and the shiny area being the finished section that was lapped. I guess I could have been a bit clearer with the description.
headgasket. Get a couple of the strips to test the coolant for combustion gas contamination. They change color if they detect any traces of exhaust gas. with 22lbs of boost I doubt your lifting the head. I lifted a head once on my powerstroke-it had arp headstuds, fire-ringed, and copper head...
it sonds like you have a vacumn leak-spray some starting fluid over the motor with it running (cold so you dont explode) and see if the idle rises-that would DEFINATELY explain the white spark plug. As for the noise, Again, Ill say you have low oil pressure and the hydraulic tappets arent...
how high a voltage spike are we talking? certainly sounds like you fried something bad-can you open the ecu and see any visable damage? black marks, plasticy smell?
until the motor breaks in compresion is going to be a little low-was the head machined? Did you mess with the valvetrain? sounds like you have too much clearance and you have a valve noise. Generally rods sound like a hollow knock, valvetrain noises generally are ticks. Whats your oil pressure...
sounds like you burned a piston. What grade fuel were you running? mods? Id bet that cylinder is scorched-with luck a hone will work. however, 0 psi is bad-Even bad rings should net you SOMETHING. Id pull the VC and see if you have any bent valves.
pull the pan-check for metal down there-remove a rod cap and check to see if the bearings have dirt contamination (small pit marks), signs of overheating (blued), improper machining (inconsistant shiny streaks) or wear-if the crank has grooves that catch your fingernails a rebuild is in order...
if the motor really only has 12k on it its pssible the metal is from the break in process-motors tend to produce some serious metal when breaking in due to the rapid wearing in of parts-the rings seat, pistons get seated, most rebuilt motors have some sort of rough machining that tends to make...
You can get a lapping set at most auto parts store. It consists of a wooden suction cupped tool, and some fine abrasive compound. Id definately dissasemble, clean, de-carbon, lap, and make sure to replace the valve seals-how often do you want to take a head off t do it? great opportunity! If the...
a good indication on whether the head gasket was bad is whether some or all of your pistons are clean. water attempting to compress tends to steam clean the inside of your combustion chambers really well. Make sure the rods are straight (measure the lengths-if one is shorter, its probably a bit...
Did you replace the throwout bearing? How about the pilot bearing? If the input shaft isnt properly aligned itll make noise, and a bad throwout will certainly cause knocks. Good luck
I Installed my probe after the turbo and it read over 300 degrees cooler than the same probe PRE-TURBO. Seemed like it gave me a false sense of security-as aluminum melts around 1200, I wanted to make sure to be as close to the combustion chambers as possible. good luck.
I could use either, prefer 8 blade hx40 (the one you guys dont want) so its a direct interchange-I have a few parts to trade, but would rather find a cheap one and pay cash. Thanks guys