Well if you can still use it to display knock, I wouldn't say totally worthless. I'd say it's a good thing to have for dsmlink becasuse you can customize what you want it to display. Knock sensor is ONE of the options.
Well if you were hitting it from the other side of the casing (as in you had the transmission apart)...yeah. Seeing as how you're on the OTHER side, though... you're going to have to pry it out, if at all possible. Be careful about the seating surface for the seal though.As for the t-case...
Think about this carefully now. The shaft is sealed, yes, and there is a female end inside the transmission, yes, but you're changing that seal. The transmission may leak some oil, and the transfer case will definitely dump oil out the driveshaft connection, and it takes 1 quart. Since you're...
As far as for boost, you're right, it is useless.HOWEVER. If you realize that it's measuring the airflow into the engine, it makes a pretty good airflow meter. I use it to measure airflow into the engine (like for how fuel efficient I'm driving and such).
:ohdamn:I did the SAME thing when I swapped out for someone else's coilpack because I thought mine was out. Turns out it WAS the plug wires.Yes, that's right, on both.
I don't do irreversible fixes, and I also try to avoid temporary fixes unless it's just to get me home. If I know it's going to wear out anyway, I'll just get an aftermarket bov.
Ohh the seal on the transmission! Oops.To change that one, I had to remove the transmission and actually hammer it out from the inside. You can PROBABLY pry it out if you remove the t-case (all of five bolts, and you need to disconnect the downpipe from the turbo and let it hang). but it may...
The stock one won't break, it's an entirely digital gauge that uses the MAF to "guess" how much air is coming into the boost system and it really has absolutely no clue how much pressure there is. Most other boost gauges have an air line that feeds directly into the back of the gauge and will...
Sounds like a boost leak test. What's the car's stock boost gauge look like? Does it look like you're pulling in a lot of "boost" when you're sitting there revving?For the record, the car's stock "Boost guage" is a MAF "Guess." It sees how much air is coming into the engine, does a number...
To answer your question, and oil catch can ends up basically "replacing" the PCV valve with a literal can that collects the oil vapors that come out. A lot of people do the swap after their dipstick pops up when they start running higher boost and the crankcase sees a little extra pressure. I...
I remember having this problem for a little while on my car. I believe my solution was to run a can of seafoam through the intake system and also through the fuel.
Generally the simplest solution is also the best solution, so I'd recommend keeping the project as simple as possible.As for the stock boost gauge removal... why?? It actually can give some handy information about the MAF readouts, and gives away when your turbo piping fails immediately.
I removed my transmission in my garage with jackstands, so you'll be fine. You'll want to drop down the exhaust so you can access the two bolts holding the axle to the frame (stabilizer thing for the axle) 14mm, and then you'll probably want to remove the axle as a whole from the hub. From what...
Heat shrink tubing if you can get it to fit over the solder, otherwise electrical tape. I feel your pain, I had to clean up after a messy installer when I did my stereo...
I'm still rocking the stock BOV, but if you're shooting for a bov that'll hold 40psi, bending/crushing the stock BOV *isn't* the way. The message that I posted the "do it right, do it once" to was in response to this:I don't like rice, and I only change things out when I need to. I'll keep...
My car got broken into about six months or so ago. The way they got in was they pried back the driver's side window seal and slid a slimjim down inside and flipped the lock.Ever since they pried back the window seal, the window hasn't rolled up straight (It'd roll up straight before then...
+1 To the semi-talon look, the rest are all too ricey and are just...ew. The black FMIC is kinda cool looking, but really my advice would be:Don't paint it. The car looks like it's got a clean coat of blue, and multitoning will ultimately turn it rice, and the solid blue looks way better anyway.
Nah that's the driver's side cover, it has the hole there to manually turn the engine when doing engine work...If you need more pictures from different angles, let me know. I got the trans out right now, so the wheels are off.Edit: Is that TWO different panels there in that first picture...
Have they said WHY it doesn't pass? Or is it a "Oh, FMIC = not pass."Just some ideas that may make it pass the visual:
- Paint the FMIC and associated pipes to look like a radiator. Matte black hi temperature paint.
- Maybe make a "jumper pipe" just from the turbo to the wastegate and take out...
If you've done a boost leak test, ignore this next paragraph.I had an FMIC assembly done by some noob previous owner on my car when I bought it and was all to familiar with boost leaks by the time I got the custom pipe welded. Make sure that you don't have a boost leak somewhere and that your...
How you could tell: it's not going to run at 100%, or even close to it, but it'll still get you home. An easy way to put your car into limp mode would be to disconnect the plug on the MAF.
I would highly suggest becoming a DIY. Go to your select parts shop (My favorite is Advance Auto) And pick up a Hayne's/Chilton's manual. Next, check your craigslist or check on here for someone selling a palm pocketlogger and pick one of those up. You'll save yourself a lot of coin, and get a...
I've heard the east coast is having lots of trouble with unusually high snowfall.
It's been abnormally warm here... lots of 60 degree days (10-20% humidity, is nice :D ).
I've heard it's the solar flares?
That happened to one of my friends of mine. Friend A was driving, but it was friend B in the passenger seat who decided that they were gonna drift around the next corner, unbeknownst to the driver. I get a call shortly after saying they're about one or two oh... BLOCKS from the house and need a...
Right, forgot to mention fuel filter, but that would make him run lean...not rich.A pocketlogger palm pilot will run you about $100 or so from someone, and they're fantastic. If you can, try to get one that has mmcd and dsmlogger on it, they both do different things better.
I have an HTC hero, and I definitely like it more than my samsung restore (though I do miss having real buttons for texting while driving.... :P ). The phone's a little slow, doesn't like text message logs longer than 500 texts (starts to get REALLY slow). Come to think about it... this phone is...
I already ordered an centerforce. This one had a 90-day warranty on it, and it's not 90 days old. They already told me they won't replace it. I've had a very negative experience with Zoom so far, and I wanted to share my experience.Edit: Centerforce, not ACT.
Mainly I'm just really sick of hearing about the guy. I live 75 mi from him, so it never ends here.16psi with a small 16g, The highest RPM launch I ever did was 4000 rpm, and that wasn't too often. I actually kinda babied it, I rarely shifted fast or hard, and NEVER powershifted or w/e that...
:ohdamn:
1. Jack is not the end-all be-all. I just rebuilt one of his transmissions for someone else. Yes, he's good, but he's not a god.2. Yes, I properly adjusted the pedal. .612 is the stock spec, mine was .6115, measured at about 10 different spots on the plate.3. Yes, I used a good...
Flywheel remilled before installation, .612", alignment tool put in before I bolted down the pressure plate, kept the trans nice and straight putting it on, bolted everything down torqued to spec, new throwout bearing, pivot ball shimmed with a washer, new clutch master, new pedal assembly...
For me, it always dragged just ever so teeny little bit. It handled a couple hard launches, but apparently that was about it. Also, when these ones get hot, they get WAY sticky.When I called customer support, they were a very far cry from knowledgeable. All they told me was that it only needed...
Do it right, do it once, replace it with an aftermarket that's designed to hold more boost.Oh and no you don't need anything else.
Source: Let me google that for you
The best solution would be to get a datalogger... you'll be using the crap out of it anyway if you really plan on getting into these cars.If it's the O2 sensor, you'll see the O2 sensor voltage on it won't change even when you stomp on the gas or w/e.Some possible solutions:
Ignition...
So when I did my transmission job, I pulled a major nono: Bought a 'performance' clutch from a company I've never heard of for far cheaper than it should have been to save a dime.I'll keep this short and sweet: Zoom Performance clutches don't work so well, and their customer support is...
Update: The clutch got so bad tonight it would hardly disengage enough for me to stop. I managed to get it home, but now it's gotta come apart. I'm thinking it's the clutch plate itself or the pivot fork that needs replacing. Any suggestions on what type of clutch to order and where to order it...
:hmm: Sounds reasonable. I haven't pulled it yet, but I can do that here in a couple weeks. Far too busy until then.Update: Seems to disengage relatively okay while I'm driving, but only really has problems when it's stopped. The faster I'm going, (5000-7000rpm shifts) the better it generally...
Yes, brand new assy.
Master and slave are in excellent condition. When I say the master is new, I mean like 20 miles installed new.
Yes, completely bled.
Did that when I bled it.
:banghead::banghead::banghead: I've done all of this.I'm only a newbie to the forum, not to cars. As for that...
So I've already read this post...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/262833-clutch-disengagement-issues.html
and I'm having a very similar issue. Initially, the clutch wouldn't disengage. So I replaced the pedal assembly and that fixed the issue for a short while. After that, the...