Check your fuel pressure

By the air box next to the boost solenoid their is a big connector their just double check it

Look at the big connector under the intake you might have left it unplugged

I have the same noise and it's a vibration noise I pinpointed to the timing belt tensioner pulley I tried 3 different pulleys and none of them had play and the noise still didn't go away . My theory is when you delete the balance shafts all the vibrations go to that pulley.and I used a...

Your possibly hitting fuel cut how many lbs are you boosting.

How did you reroute the pcv system.

Check the powers and grounds at the relay.if its a ground thats controlled by the computer which means you have a weak power or ground at the computer or your crank sensor is not good and at last the computer is garbage.

Try cranking fast if the check engine light stays lit while cranking your crank sensor is no good or wiring.

Just loweyour boost by putting the small boost hose direct to the wastegate on the turbo housing.ifits fuel cut this should help.

Check your main starter ground wire that comes straight from battery to starter also check the positive. Worst is that new starter is no good.

You have a loose or corroded chassis ground.

Some low compression pistons will help it feel faster.

I second the ecu sounds like your ecu is done.

I have a 96 eclipse gst m/t. installed remote start and replaced original starter relay with aftermarket relay.The type that has 85 86 87 87a 30 numbers on them.Im sure i wired everything properly because its been working fine for a while.anyway when i remote start it cranks up fine.when i go...

Check your blow off valve to see if it opens and closes while it's doing the bouncing.also check for vacuum leaks and boost leaks.

Do a fuel pressure test.see if it stalls when its cold.if it doesn't replace your front o2 sensor.the worst is compression test.let us know.

Just drive the car till you have at least 5000 miles than do a compression test.I'm sure your rings are not seated yet.

You need to test the fuel pressure before you buy a pump.

You need to trace the wires one by one from ecu to sensor with a multimeter by measuring the resistance and don't forget to check for shorts or bad connectors.

He's saying he's getting lots of oil coming out his valve cover and oil cap .it can be your valve cover gasket and oil cap seal. If that don't fix it you probably have blown piston rings making it smoke .can be valve stem seals and the turbo . Is the motor rebuilt or used?

I want to advance my intake cam one tooth on my timing belt to give me faster acceleration and more low end power my question is are their any cons to doing this?

I can't view any of your logs it says download failed.

Check your coolant temp sensor and like everyone keeps saying check your mechanical timing the right way.

I got my keys to stop shaking at idle with ac on but I'm pulling 33 percent fuel my short term fuel trims show add 17 percent do you guys know if I can get some melted pistons or valves from running so lean at idle. My o2 sensor voltage reads .060 not .60????

Your BISS screw looks completely closed. Open it up a little bit (unscrew it) also check your idle air control motor.

Do you use the original flywheel I believe the awd and fwd are different size.

Eobd facile to log.

No ECM link just safc and robs facile to log my stft and ltft along with othe sensor values.

Fixed pressure to 43 lbs still getting a stumble now its a Lil more often than before..

Ok I'm a put the psi back to stock.i did it because higher psi give you better fuel atomization therefore better mpg.

So your saying my fuel pressure is causing the stumble.?

I get misfires for a second and gos away only when it gos into closed loop

I have 96gst with afc fuel psi at 80 and as soon as it hits closed loop I get this stumble for a second almost like all the cylinders misfire at least once. I do have the 6 bolt cas sensor don't know if that's normal?

Last thing is the ecu itself.

Check your camshaft position sensor.

And compression test?

What size inter cooler are you using and is it keeping the intake temps down.

What afr are you aiming for when your tunning?

Get your radiator pressure flushed to make sure its flowing properly I would double check the thermostat just throw it in a pan of boiling water and see if it opens .

Get some vise grips and clamp the fuel return line if the pressure drops its the pump if it doesn't its the regulator .

The check valve inside the fuel pump could be leaking out all the pressure.or your fuel pressure regulator isn't holding the pressure.

Resize the rods this time their can be small imperfections you can't see with your eyes and don't mismatch the caps.

One more thing to try is using a completely different battery.

After you check boost leaks and connectors and a tune up do a compression test.

O a continuity test from alternator to ecu and make sure no other wires are shorting out once you've done that then go ahead and buy an ecu.

Check all your oil seals for any signs of leaks check the timing belt pulleys for excess play and the tensioner.

You have a faulty thermostat.

Well I've checked nothing is loose just wondering if it has anything to do with my steering rack it does leak about 1 dot every 100 miles. Just doesn't make sense as to why that hose slams against the firewall when I turn left or right.

Thank you finally someone with some useful info.

If you look at roadrace engineering oscilloscope diagram it shows the cam sensor is not compatible but the crank is correct me if I'm mistaken.well my real question is how can you tell the difference of a cas p0300 and an actual p0300 misfire?