If you are on stock MAF your BOV should be recirculated.

Yeah that's another way to do it. He asked what he needed to support those injectors and based on the numbers I just gave the simplest answer.

You'd need something more like a walbro 450 LPH than a 255 to fully support 1250cc injectors. Since the factory fuel line is very close to a -6 AN, eliminating the banjo bolt on the fuel filter outlet and replacing it with a -6 AN fitting (filter to rail kit) will likely be an adequate...

The Fidanza flywheels for our cars are aluminum with a steel friction surface. I had one on my old 2G and I liked it, some people don't like them, but good choice in my opinion.You'll also want to double check that your slave cylinder isn't leaking or anything. Good time to replace if it is.

The clutch release clip. Only $2, worth it.EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance PartsIf your clutch fork has never been replaced, it's probably worthwhile. What are your plans for the flywheel?

Sturtevant Richmont Torque Tools & Systems

Pull the oil pan and look for metal shavings would be the quickest and easiest thing to do with an engine that's just on a stand.All of this as well...

For the heat shield you can probably get away without even having one especially if you still have the heat barrier material on the underside of the hood. But it wouldn't be a bad idea to put the manifold heat shield on. The other piece goes over the hot side of the turbo and O2 housing...

For the outer tie rods you can usually get them by just hitting the outside of the attachment point on the knuckle a few times. I wouldn't say a pneumatic tool is at all necessary to get those.

Those numbers are about what I have seen between FWD and AWD cars as well.Speaking in terms of how much power is transferred to the wheels, you are correct. He's speaking in terms of how much power is transferred into forward motion, which is what really matters when you get right down to it...

Aluminum:BUMP TUBE ADAPTERS : DMP Fasteners, Performance Parts Race Supply ShopSteel:http://dmpfasteners.com/shop/an-fittings-and-hose-1647/xrp-fitting-349/power-steering-fitting-hose-1803/steel-bump-tube-adapters-560/

Recirculating or not recirculating your BOV is going to have zero effect on how the MAF sensor reads airflow. The answer to this question is simple. Your horsepower goal requires a larger amount of airflow than the stock 1G MAF can accurately read. You need to look into alternative methods...

MAF = Mass Airflow SensorMass flow sensor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaOpen element filter, MAF, and hard intake pipe:http://www.boostcontroller.com/products/InjenShortRamIntakeSystem_2GDSM.gif

If I'm reading this correctly, there is some misinformation here.First you don't want to connect your wastegate pressure source to the intake manifold, you want it to be as close to the compressor housing as possible. That being said, it looks like you're on stock turbo, so there should...

I'm unable to see the photos. But, if you're referring to eliminating the solenoids, you have three choices. First is to leave them plugged in and tucked out of sight. Second is to measure the resistance across them with a DMM and solder resistors in their place (~30 Ohms, but check them...

I also agree very strongly with this point. I didn't look closely at the cooler kit in question, just glanced at it, so I didn't notice that it used a sandwich plate. I also recommend that you use a 90 style OFH that is equipped with a thermostat. I have a cooler and an OFH that I can sell to...

Rota G Force maybe? Rotas are relatively cheap as well. I've seen plenty of people with high HP builds daily them though.

If you want or need an oil cooler my advice would be to piece together a kit yourself with a Setrab oil cooler, AN fittings, and braided stainless line.Or a cheaper alternative would be to track down an OEM tranny cooler from an auto Diamante or any Mitsubishi car that had one not built into...

The answer to your question is dependent on the answer to this question:How much rust does the shell have?

I am a mechanical engineer and I had a job and started working (part time) while still taking classes two months before I even graduated. Mechanical is a broad field of engineering that is in high demand and you will get a job if you get the degree. Although, as with any job, your ability to...

I have a decent amount I could say about this regarding just the reliability and engineering aspects, but disregarding all that, there is one question I need to ask.How much money is your shame worth? Do you really want to open your hood to show people your engine and have PVC intercooler...

As mentioned it's likely that what you are experiencing is boost creep.There are remedies to this that have been published on this site, so it would be a little superfluous for me to type all of them in here.Here's a link to some good info...

They're not even very rare. It's not like they were a limited production vehicle. I work with someone who was a quality engineer at the assembly plant in Normal from 89 to 99 and he said they pumped out a TON of them during that time. Granted not all of them are still on the road, and the...

Sorry I got carried away and started lumping the EGR and EVAP systems together. As stated the EGR valve is under the throttle body on the side of the intake manifold.The way I wrote it made it sound like I thought the charcoal canister was the EGR valve, I assumed he would want to delete...

The stock crank can handle whatever power you're planning on making.You should throw away that Chilton and get a Haynes along with downloading the factory service manual. I've just never liked the Chilton manuals...You can unhook the FPS, BCS, and the Exaporative Emissions Purge Solenoid...

Try just running a m6x1.0 tap in them first before you go helicoil. If you can get the tap started in the first few threads, you can clear the rest out and probably still be ok. These bolts shouldn't be torqued more than 3 ft-lb.

No problem. Good luck! :thumb:

Yeah if the balance shafts are still in there that's not right. You'll either have to re-time the motor with a balance shaft belt or do a BSE.There's a lot of info out there on BSE, just a couple:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PA2CQDivyshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LR-1adDayQY...

If a proper balance shaft removal has been done, the oil pump sprocket doesn't need to be in time. Are you saying there are still balance shafts in the engine and there is no belt?

Trust me, I understand what you're saying. If you want to go for it, they're your cars! I don't know the details of the swap, I'm sure its been done once or twice before, but its definitely not common, so I will be of no further help here. Good luck!

You should check to see if your tensioner is bad. If there is any visible oil on it, then it is bad. You can take it out and compress it in a vise slowly, if oil comes out of it in any way its shot. When you release tension off it, the piston should return slowly to its expanded position. I...

Before cutting apart two good cars, you should strongly consider just putting the tsi together and using that car. If the shell is bad, you again should strongly consider just buying a turbo model. There is a reason why there is no tech article on this. It has been discussed many times that...

My advice is to modify the pipe to fit around the fans, not the fans to fit around the pipe.

Yes^^^Here's how to set your fuel pressure:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng6llVYSq4w

Unless you're worried about cost I would put two aftermarket slim fans on. I'd be hesitant to run without a shroud. One reason being that the shroud doesn't just protect the fan blades, but it directs airflow. When is the last time you changed your radiator cap? It can't hurt to change it.

The fan on the drivers side of the radiator with the metal shroud only turns on when the car is idling and the AC is on. The fan with the plastic shroud is the main fan that will provide most if not all of your cooling at idle. Is that fan removed for the J pipe?

Are your fans turning on?

The way it is now will technically work, it's just not a preferred method in my opinion.

Sounds like you might be describing the sending unit for an electronic boost gauge that is T'd into the brake booster line. I'm not a huge fan of T'ing into anything for a boost/vacuum source.As far as the black gunk is concerned, you'll just have to find the source of it. Could be an oil...

Yes, most of it is under the battery. Charcoal canister location varies, for some its on the gas tank filler neck, others under the battery, and some on the front drivers side under the frame rail area I believe.

If the car has always been like this, then verify that the extra O2 sensor you've described is plugged into the factory harness. Next, get an O2 sensor socket, let the car warm up to operating temperature, turn it off, remove the old O2 sensor, put the new one in the correct position, and plug...

If it is the about 1/2" diameter one, then that line goes back to the EGR system. You can either hook it back up to your new intake pipe or cap the hole on the intake pipe and remove your EGR.

If you haven't tracked it down yet, the fill for it is in the drivers side hatch ditch near the rear.

Check a local salvage yard, they'd probably let you just have some if you found them and removed them yourself.

He said there were wires cut, but he didn't say that he cut them. Again, that's why I asked if the car ever ran correctly since he owned it. If the wires were always cut and the car ran in an acceptable manner at some point while they were cut, then that is likely not the major problem. He...

Have you taken the brake rotor off and looked at the Ebrake components?

This is the main reason I asked if the car had ever ran correctly while he's owned it. By the way he has described things, it sounds like he never cut any wires to an O2 sensor, so I don't suspect this is the problem.He also mentioned he had codes from an O2 sensor and also the knock sensor...

If there are three O2 sensors in the exhaust system then one is from a wideband that was installed at some point. The one that really matters is the upstream (front) O2 sensor. The only real function the downstream (rear) O2 has is to check and see if the catalytic converter is working. Find...

This is exactly what you should do for your boost/vacuum source. You technically shouldn't T off anything. If you drill and tap for a source and need more than one, like someone else mentioned, you can get a vacuum distribution block. It'll be cleaner and better.

The stock turbo outlet directs outboard towards the passenger side of the car, you could make lower pipes to work with it, but you would only end up with a laggy, low efficiency set up.How bad is the boost leak? Does your car buck and cut out when you try to accelerate?I recommend that...