100% it isn't a boost/vacuum leak. Is that because you completed a boost leak test, or everything was okay prior to the problem with the AC belt.Everything you've described, from the tractor sound, to the lean at idle/rich at cruise, sounds exactly like a boost leak.

Bump for parts. Pics attached.

1995 Tsi AWD part-out.Most aftermarket parts are gone. If you need factory/OE/hard to find parts, shoot me a private message on here or email [email protected] in the Myrtle Beach area.

6 bolt block. Wiseco 8.3:1 forged pistons. Eagle H-beam rods. OEM Crankshaft. Balance Shafts removed. Mitsubishi Composite Head Gasket ARP Studs 2g Head with 1g CAS (green top) Stainless Exhaust Manifold Studs.Approximately 15,000 miles on the motor. Pulled due to lack of interest...

Boost leak test.

What's your battery voltage with the car turned off? While cranking? and with the car running?Pull back the sheathing your ground wire. It's probably corroded and needs replaced.If autozone tested it on the car, and claimed it was "okay", then you shouldn't have the dash lights.If...

But have you gone and done an actual boost leak test.? People are telling, you aren't listening. It 100% sounds like a boost leak.

That sucks, although those are awful long skid marks with a good bit of force behind the impact still for going "slightly" over 40mph.To answer your question though.Front radiator support replacement. Radiator Probably AC condensor Bumper.And whatever underlying damage to fans, etc that...

Pretty much any aftermarket SMIM has velocity stacks utilized.

Battery is trunk mounted, with 2gauge power and ground wires running the length of the car, as well as being grounded at the back.I don't think it has anything to do with the relocation though, as the drain is gone if I disconnect power wires running to the fuse box.and fml. I just...

Finally got my car back on the road, only to find out that I had an electrical draw big enough to kill the battery. Searching led me to how to track it down, but I'm at a loss.With everything connected, I've got a 211mA draw on the battery. Narrowing it down to 4 fuses, all of which are in the...

It does indeed sound like the Windows Recovery Virus. Malwarebytes should clean it up, but for some reason it doesn't, here is a link to manually remove the virus. It involves some registry editing and such, but you should be able to get it gone with one of those two options.Windows Recovery...

Looks like I'm out then. I really can't justify driving an hour and a half if they aren't doing test n tune.

Might have to be a Wednesday night. It looks like they've got bracket racing going on saturday nights in June instead of the normal Grudge/TnT

That's what everyone is trying to explain to the OP. You CANNOT just buy a chip. You have to buy a package (which includes everything) and that includes the chip. Ecmlink does not sell just the chip.

#1 Tigerhorns #2 Zxrider_sa #3 kingkraka #4 mrdavidbradley #5 Palmetto_TSi #6 SOADweskey #7 ArticNemesisDepending on what saturday you set it, the corn-fed holset would like to come out and play at Darlington. I work the 4th, and 25th of June for Saturdays.

Nope. Different size head ports.^^ faster at responding.

Post a log, and make sure that your profile is up to date so we can help.

boost leak test.

They don't. 2g eproms came in 95's and only in that year. Spyders didn't start til '96.So if you are finding an eprom, it was put there after the fact.

Nobody cares to recreate threads on questions that have been asked & answered multiple times on here.A simple search for "meth" yielded 500+ results, of which it took 30 seconds to pull up these that have plenty of information on what you've just asked...

Is your car overheating? Are you losing coolant?If not, then the pressure is normal. The cooling system is supposed to be pressurized. The hoses will seem to swell a little bit, and become "stiff" as you say when it's at temperature.

Define "a lot of pressure". The cooling system is supposed to pressurize under normal operating conditions.

Ecmlink forums have the evo 560's listed as a -18% compensation, you are up at 25.4%.Try changing that and see if it corrects it enough to cycle your 02.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/77418-common-spyder-convertible-top-problems-link-motor-drive-pin.html#post644831Sounds like the drive pins sheared.

Because there are quite a few tech questions in this forum, and when you hit the new post button, it shows up in the list. I know I don't personally check to see what forum it is if I can answer it. Much like this one.

That is a hose, not a wire.Did you remove the charcoal canister? Looks like your emissions system.

Have you adjusted the pedal travel?At the top of the clutch pedal, there is a threaded rod from the master cylinder that threads into the pedal. It's secured by a nut (I think 10mm). Loosen the nut, and you can adjust where the pedal engages by screwing it farther into the pedal, or back...

The innovate lc-1 has two outputs, one for the wideband signal, and a 0-1volt narrowband ouput.You'd just have to wire that into the ecu's front 02 signal, and have the lc1 simulate the narrowband signal.[edit] few minutes late, had too many tabs open in browser and just got around to...

Powder coating kit/gun. Powder. Oven. Way to strip down the items so they are ready for powder.The cost adds up.

It really depends on how bad the flywheel surface was damaged/warped the first time, and how much the machinist had to take off.It's such a variable answer, because it really varies from flywheel to flywheel, and machinist to machinist.

Sorry, but the crank cannot move 1/4". The torque converter or flywheel would hit the outside block way before that. If it is moving a 1/4 of an inch, you have a bigger problem than that.

Are you sure that your harmonic balancer didn't just let loose, and that is what you think is moving?You are talking hundredths of an inch for crankwalk, nothing that you can physically move by hand, you need a micrometer to measure it.

If you want to do it the way you've done, you need to physically cut the front 02 wire to the ECU and wire in the yellow wire from the LC1 to the ECU side of the wire.Right now, the ecu is trying to pull information from both the LC-1 and the stock 02 sensor because you just tapped it.

The LC-1 should have come with software for it. The LC1 has a serial DB-9 connector that I purchased a DB9 -> USB if I want to use just the software. That's pulling data from the serial port, vs the way ecmlink logs (You hardwired it to one of the 02 inputs or whichever other sensor you chose in...

Sounds like the throttle plate is getting hung up on the new elbow you installed. Take it off and look for signs of rubbing on the elbow

The EZon tops are awesome tops for the money. I bought two of them for my spyder, the first being a tan one, and then a black one when I wanted to convert it. Fitment is spot on, and the stayfast fabric is rugged, and lasted for well past the time I had the car and DD'd it (proper care &...

It went into gear with the engine off. It was either a hydraulics problem, or a clutch problem.

Assuming you've got all the bolts out, heat and a big ass sledge. The hub and bearing all come out as one unit.

Auto or manual?Auto, just pour it down the dipstick tube. Manual, there is a bolt on the front of the case (17mm or 19mm, can't remember which).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/390449-methonal-injection.htmlhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/264396-best-methanol-injection-kit.html

Well, your symptoms pretty much describe a boost leak. Fix your timing, do a boost leak test.

You need to fix your timing first off. Second, have you done a boost leak test?Meh. You should be checking your oil level every time, or at least every other time you fill up your gas tank. Driving around with a low oil level is just asking for a broken DSM.

Did you set the timing belt correctly after you changed the seals?

Nope. Nice clean filtered oil from the housing. As the OP already stated, the issue that happened with the turbo wasn't a problem with the engine regardless, but the turbo itself.Glad to hear FP fixed the issue for you, and equally as glad you decided to contact FP prior to bitching about...

That's terrible advice for any street driven dsm. The hydraulic tensioner is there to adjust to any belt stretch/contraction associated with wear/weather and such.

The big black colored one directly in front of your radiator is the AC condensor. If you've removed the AC, then that is only taking up space.As for the other "mini" radiator as you called it, have any pics? It might be an aftermarket Trans/PS/Oil cooler.

You bought a 19 year old car. There are things that are going to have to be replaced!

The first picture of the "control box" is actually your ballast. You should have two of them correct?A single picture with all the parts would be helpful. The two small black/red wires are probably your switched source (positive/ground) that trigger the ballast (usually run off your stock...

It's held on by a combination of the plastic trips, and some adhesive trim strip. You can find a 3m adhesive strip, or equivalent at your local advanced/napa/autozone.