I would hand that 18 year old kid a rock the size of my thumbnail and tell him he can keep the car if he can scratch the every last bit of paint off with the rock!
I'm going to use a micrometer and make sure all the oil ports are the same size as an oem plate I'm going to use the topline plate with the oem pump. I think it will be fine as long as the two are an exact match to an oem plate.
I think the big problem is when people run the bov without the recirculating tube on they don't plug the hole in the intake pipe that is after the maf sensor so thats what causes the AFR to act funky. If you plug the hole and don't use the recirculating tube you shouldn't have any issues with...
Take the internal gate off the turbo then either weld the flapper and run the wastegate on the manifold or get an o2 housing for an external gate and walah you have an externaly wastegated. Then you need to decide wether or not you want it recirculated.
I just bought a mitsu pump without the front plate and I already have a topline complete pump and faceplate. Just wondering if it would be safe to take the topline pump off and use the oem pump on the topline plate?By pump I mean oil pump also.
Why dont you just take a cutting wheel to it? the axle is screwed so who cares about that just don't cut the shit out of the spindle and you would be fine. That's what I would do and I have done just about everything lol.
I feel you on the 2-4 hours of sleep a night. My mission times changed so randomly that I just don't sleep until my body forces itself to shutdown for little bit. I love the dyno vid as soon as that thing hits boost it's game over!!
You gotta add me on facebook so I can help you get the fools goin:thumb: Jacob McCormick is my name and I have the same picture on my profile as my avatar.
Well the car is up for sale in the classifieds and I'm going to have giant part out in a month when I get home. By giant I mean over 15k worth of parts!!!!
I'm going to take a guess and say that this is after he replaced the knock sensor otherwise he wouldn't still have the issue or maybe hes trying to help people that are having the same problem narrow it down to the knock sensor....Idk?
Your thread title made laugh! I would say that the reason you receive more knock while cruising at low throttle is because that is when your car runs the leanest. I don't know for sure I'm not a tuner that is just an idea.
I would have to say that a fresh setup is going to produce the numbers faster than a loose/old setup. So yes the faster it gets to max compression the better of shape it is in. So I kind off disagree with you.:cool:
Considering that the price is purposely dropped/marked off I doubt it's a typo..... Maybe they have a sale going on or they are trying to be more competitive on the price.
I would just get the 1g specified kit. I don't think the do it yourself kit comes with a bov flange on any of the pipes it comes with. Another downside is that you have to put the puzzle together to get the pipes to fit, You also end up with extra stuff you won't need most likely. Again as...
I couldn't find any previous threads that could answer my question. I'm trying to save money so I don't have to sell this car and all the parts I have for it. So here it is I want to know if I could have my car dyno tuned to the 550-600whp range with a fully built stroker setup on a stock 2g...
Screw that I have always been told not to reuse head bolts, Studs are a different story. The one time I thought I should reuse Head bolts one of them broke when I was torquing it down. I would just spend the little extra money and order a new set or some arp head studs that are like 80 for a...