could be a number of things but I need more info. what cas are u running the black top or the stock none adjustable? have you checked for good spark in all cylinders? are you venting you blow off valve?

I would do a leak down test it will give you an idea where the leak is... ive had some low numbers from some tired motors befor but zero compression? was that the actual numbe in each cylinder?

I ran one of the performance Honda ones on a trailer queen talon I used to have and didn't have any problems but me and a buddy of mine tried on his daily driver and it ran a bit too hot it never over heated but just always ran hotter till we ultimately yanked it and made a mitsu core fit...

the biggest thing that stands out to me on your list is the lack of a downpipe and the tubular manifold.... I have ran three of them and had no success they look sound and perform great all for a month till they crack take it from me find yourself a fp manifold

if you go with higher compression pistons, whether aftermarket or stock 2g you will need a way to control timing like dsmlink.

right now i have an 06 cbr1000rr, 01 gsxr750 and a 96 gsxr600 with an 02 1000 motor in it.

you wanna use the six bolt rods and you can get the rods machined to fit the 2g pistons. 14b is the 1g turbo which is better then the 2g t25. i personally use the intake to match the head for example if i use a 1g head i use a 1g intake. As far as the TB use the 1g.

it sound like a boost leak to me. do the boost leak test when you get the tester then check back.

yes base timing with timing connector grounded should be at 5.

no the timing mark on the oil sprocket only matters when you have balance shafts.

sounds to me like a maf problem. make sure you pluged it back in. Yes 17 on the wideband would be lean. do you have black smoke comeing out of the tail pipe and do you smell gas?

tri mitsubishigraveyard.com i know they have them quite often i got one from them a while back for a good deal.

sounds to me like boost creep.. if you are running a line straight to the wastegate with no mbc you shouldnt be boosting more then 10 psi. do you have an aftermarket down pipe like a 2.5 inch or 3 inch are you running a cat or a test pipe?

if i remember correctly evo III wastegates are 10 psi and what do you mean not blowing off? you mean the wastegate isnt opening or are you talking about your blow off valve?

check the turbo for shaft play it could be that either the compressor wheel or turbine wheel is hitting one of there housings. i remember when one of my driveshafts carrier bearings started going out my drive shaft would grind against my exhaust when i would get on it.

first of i am not worried about vibration it is a drag car. second ther has been many people that have welded there motor mounts and had great success with improved 60 times and better shifting. the reson that i am thinking of welding my carrier bearings is because i have a spare drive shaft...

sorry my computer screwed up and only posted part of what i was trying to ask... and this is the first time i have been able to get it to work sense. anyways i was talking about welding my carrier bearings solid like you would do with motor mounts.

i had a problem like this once and it turned out to be a busted clutch disc.

so i was wondering if this has been tried be for? i have a spare drive shaft laying around for my drag project and I'm in the middle of welding my motor mounts and thought about triing it on my carrier bearings so i thought i would give it a shot on my spare. I know there would be vibration but...

i wouldent. i would remove the turbo from the car and take the turbine housing off. it would make it much more accesable.

stock for stock they are close but the 2g is quiker but the 1g in my opinion is a better base. i like the 2g for a dd and the 1g for a track car.

if you mount it on the o2 housing you wouldnt want to weld the door shut. the o2 housing mounted wastegates use the same hole as the internal gate so you would want to cut out the flapper door and drill the wastegate hole as big as u can.

there is a walkthrough on vfaq.com on how to do it and there usualy ia a plug and play harness that is sold on ebay but i just cut the 1g maf plug off and solderd the 2g plug on using the vfaq.com walkthrough to match the different wire colors

the problem i just noticed is you are yunning the oem maf that chip is set for a 2g maf i swear i put that in the email......

if you were to tri to rebuild it with an mhi kit the journal bearings from the kit wont work. those ebay turbos use a larger turbine shaft. Now if you are talking about replacing the turbine and shaft then the compressor wheel wont fit so you would have to replace it to plus the rebuild kit you...

no they are different per side.

do you have an safc or somthing to tune with? you need to add fuel at idle. then once the idle and low driving conditions are dialed in then you can move on to high throttle tuning.this will help http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/58403-definitive-piggyback-tuning-guide.html

the first one looks like the low coolant sensor that goes into the bottom of the coolant overflow bottle. the second looks like the low oil pressure sensor wire.

have you checked plugs and wires. if i were you i would fix the exhaust leak now so you can rull it out.,

action cylinder head in lakeside does all my work and i have had no problems with them.

yes the turbo is spooling im not saying its not ok look the turbo is pumping air into the piping and intake manifold now somewere along the piping or intake manifold there is probably a leak now you will still get full boost even with one of these small leaks now if a pipe was completly...

just because u read full boost on the gauge doent mean that you dont have a boost leak. remember the waste gate will not open until the pressure in the piping is at your setting of 18 so your turbo could be boosting twice that but bleeding off half. you need to do a proper boost leak test.

do u have a logger?did you do an actual boost leak test?

boost leak. and fix the exhaust leak it is contributing to the problem.

looks like an ebay t04b

hey clear your pm box

i have one i used for a few weeks befor getting my link

i used teflon tape

to be honest it is hard for me to tell from those videos but it sounds to me like it could be a few different things. First could be a bad exhaust leak. second could be rod knock, or third the lifters havent filled yet causing the chatter. you could try removing the oil cap and listening to see...

it sounds like the master cylinder to me. Seals are probably blown out on the inside alowing the fluid to leak past the plunger.

have you had it running befor? why are you maf corrections so hi? does it tri to start or just crank?

uh to my knowledge BC cams is Brian CROWER cams.

yes you can do it.

yep its time for a rebuild... good luck.

quikest way to tel... do an oil change.

if i were him i would search alittle more i know there are several 14b's on ebay right now and they are always in the classifieds.

yes but y would you want to?

awd....

uhhh what video?

as far as the rods go they are supposed to have a little side to side movement and no noticeable up down or front to back movement. have you done a compression test yet? have you fixed what caused it to overheat?