20G turbo. Was rebuilt by a well known member on here. 0 Miles since the rebuild. Wastegate flapper is welded shut. Asking $400 shipped OBO.PM or text 5seven0 5six0 0nine0eight

Finished up Cobra exhaust

Here's exactly where I got mine. I love the shit out of mine, and haven't had any trouble with it at all. Not sure if it really does save on purging gas or not... Just might be what they call it since it's trade marked.Gas Saver

I believe it was around $200. It was bought for me by a friend in exchange for fabrication work. Had he not of bought it for me, I still would have gotten this model. I believe you get what you pay for, and don't mind paying a little extra for my tools and equipment in hopes that they work and...

I'd have to say the most important thing about getting good color/gas coverage for stainless is your torch setup. It took me quite a while to find a good setup that worked the way I wanted it to. Here's what I got:Started out with this gas lense. Figured a gas lense with a decent size cup...

New set of Kooks headers for an 01 Cobra and the start of a X-pipe on the table. V-band>ball/socket flange :D

Aluminum bung welded in and tapped to M16x1.5 for the factory radiator fan switch

I hogged out the back of the fittings to match the inlet and outlet of the rad. (That's what the sharpie line was for.)Then it was just a matter of a c-clamp and two tacks making sure it was lined up.

-16 bungs welded on an AFCO radiator

haha.. Yeah its a PTE 62 trim .82ar v-band housing

^Nice, looks awesome!Started making this little guy

HX40 pro. Like I said, I'd have to look at a log to be sure because my tach drops out under wot. 91+ ecu in a 90

This is the first manifold I made myself. Its T3 with the bullseye housing.I was seeing 25psi by around ~5500-6000. I'd have to look a log to actually be certain.I like the top mount style manifolds, mainly for the ease of access to the turbo.

This is mine

I'm almost at a grand just painting this turd..

Can do

And will probably be a little more crammed with two toy-bos

Also you need an avatar.. lol

Needs moar compound

It says not to connect the Blue wire to the ECU sensor ground because it can blow the track. Just a chassis ground is fine.

You don't need a drill, or a lot of time for that matter. Just tear it apart. You can turn the mileage on that to match what you have now. Its pretty easy to figure out once you have it apart

It is indeed both a LSX in an E36, and a beautiful piece of work.

Love me some pie.. cuts

I got my aluminum tubing from Intercooler Pipe Fabrication - Silicone Intake Systems Auto Parts for my intercooler piping.I didn't even have to touch it with anything to clean it, and it welding like a dream.

If you really lay into it with the amperage without back purging you can get this raised oxidation or "sugaring" as someone else called it.I don't back purge, and as long as you aren't welding too hot, you rarely see any "sugaring".And as far back purging making a stronger weld.. I've...

My fuel and timing curves are zero now.Can you elaborate on what you mean when you say my MAFComp table looks weird? It idles around 550Hz, so I adjusted that slider to get .25AirFlowPerRev. Set the Open Loop perimeters higher and took a 10-15 min cruise log. Then with that log I ran...

What difference does the fuel and timing sliders make if this is happening in closed loop?How does the MAFComp table look strange? I set the MAF Hz at idle to get .25AirFlowPerRev then did a cruise log to use the table that the MAF compensation gave me. Whats it supposed to look like?

During this log I didn't hear anything but earlier in the day while on the highway I could hear preigntion or knock at the same speeds.

I'm getting knock while cruising at highway speeds and I have no idea why.Happens about 3300 rpms and 65-70MPHAnyone see something off in the log?

Air/Fuel is near 11.0 at WOT (I say near because it varies)25lbs of boost steady but not quite to redline.. I see knock and let out usually around 6000 or soI normally do 3rd gear pulls but the pulls in the log are 4th gear pulls on the highway.You're not coming off as an ass at...

Trust me, I'm not running straight to the forums without doing any research myself.There are just things that I've either missed or didn't find.I'll see what I can do and come back later

I've looked on ECMTuning wiki. I'll read, I just need to know what to read :confused:

Does it make it a lot harder to tune if you don't have a map sensor to log boostest?

I didn't even see logging boost was an option... I will add that.Isn't my wide band AFRatioEst?

Trying to tune a little with some highway pulls, but keep getting counts of knock in the upper rpms.Doesn't seem to matter how much I retard the timing or add fuel.The pulls are near the 230 second mark and 500 second mark. 500 second mark was with current settings. (just added a little...

Grenaded my throw out bearing

I know the LT1 has a low oil sensor. Maybe you could use them? They're kind of big though :p93-97 LT1 Low Oil Level Sensor

Are you doing this with the engine running WITHOUT grounding out the computer and diagnostic pins?

All you have to do is run some extra bolts into the bolt holes that you are going to use.And for the freeze plugs, we knocked them out and before we put new ones back in we will just run like a small flapper wheel inside quick to get rid of the extra powder coat inside the plug hole.

I don't think temperature would be an issue at all IMO.Here's our block we did, haven't ran it yet though.

Have you came to any kind of solution? I seem to be having nearly the same problem as you.

You raise a good point. Does it make a difference if you run the GM-2G cable on a 1G instead of using the GM-1G cable?

Yeah the TPS is set at .63v closed...

Ok, I've just got back from vacation and planned on working on this thing some more.I'm still getting a CEL at cruising speed under light throttle but doesn't show up Link under update DTC's.Did a boost leak test and nothing seems to be leaking.I'm still around .38-.47...

No I didn't, but I do now... Seems to have fixed that problem, Thanks! :thumb:

Ok, I just made a boost leak tester today at work so I will check that out tomorrow.Somehow I got the car to idle with the timing connector and diagnostic connector grounded (it wasn't before). I set the idle and all that happy crap.Now I set the sliders back to zero, and it seems to...

The timing was set correctly before I had this issue.I have not done a boost leak test, but I know I should do one to be sure I don't have a leak.I'll see if I can get another log tomorrow.

Alright, I captured MAFRaw and at idle it was around 700Hz. So I started to adjust the sliders to get it closer to .25 AirFlowPerRev, but I couldn't get it even close with out it starting to die and idling like garbage. The closest I got was around .33 but it would hardly stay running.I...

Nobody?