That’s the walkout basement. The house has no garage. I’m building a pole barn when the house is done. :D

Me and my 650 bobcat have been putting in work clearing more trees and doing grade work around my future house. Don’t have any pictures of the driveway but had to cut that in too and spread 100 tons of stone. It’s about 500 ft long because nobody like neighbors.

Looks like we might finally get some better gear options for people who don’t want to build a dogbox. This is the same company started making spider gears for our center diffs a while ago. I hope they get enough interest to put this into production.

I am in no way disputing the reliability issues of a 2.4. But I also stand by my statement that there is something to be gained with that extra .4 displacement and that comes from real work experience as well. Wether or not that gain is worth it is another question in itself. My current setup is...

I would disagree with the “gains nothing” statement. In fact way back in the day when I first switched from a 2.0 to a 2.4 I gained 50lb/ft of torque on a simple 16g setup changing nothing else. After a few changes that setup eventually made 502lb/ft of torque on boostins mustang dyno. Since...

Tore into the car a little more tonight. I know you guys love carnage photos so enjoy. Still can’t fathom what could have cause my trigger plate to be damaged like that.

Thanks for the pictures. Looks like a 1g pickup is in my future but the evo pickup looks promising also. Might not even need the kiggly mod for the evo pickup.

Idk can’t find anything that says either way and I don’t have any 1g stuff on hand to compare the 2. Was probably gonna get a evo and a 1g pickup to see what I can make work.

Gotta make sure the wife is happy first. Then I need to decide if I want a 100x50 or just go all out and do the 120x60 for the shop.

Not sure to be honest. I’ve read about the evo guys having issues with 2.4 cylinder walls cracking in the past but I’d bet there are a lot more evo’s that run a 2.4 than there are dsms so they would have a bigger sample size. So maybe that’s what he was worried?

Working on building a house. Hoping to break ground next month and be dried in before the weather takes a turn for the worse.

I put mine on buschurs dyno the Thursday before the shootout. My car had only been remote tuned at 35psi up to that point. First pull was 740/650 with the tires spinning. I had been driving the car around like this doing street pulls for a couple years now but never any track days. Tuner ended...

Yes it’s an oem front case that I purchased through extremepsi and dropped if will all my other parts to be built and the only whining I heard was from the dogbox. As for the oil down in the pits yes and no. I did leave a small trail of oil back to my pit but nothing like what that Honda did...

Looks like they got a little warm so I’m thinking Kurt was right on with the oil starvation being the cause. Now I have to decide if I want to roll some new bearings in or pull the engine and send it off to Buschur to get sleeved so I don’t have to worry about the cylinder walls cracking that...

No offense taken. I completely understand how cheap dsm owners can be. I treat this car better than I do my first born. Haha

No I am not logging oil pressure but I will after this. This happened after the first time I ever took the engine past 8000 rpm’s not sure if that’s related but I’m guessing I need to look into some oil pickup mods/baffles at this point?I do plan to check the bearings while it’s all apart...

The oem stubby shaft. I have never even considered for a second using cheap parts for this car. Right now I’m considering paying $1000 over new price for a FF oil pump.After talking to a member on here this morning I believe the cause of failure is because they used a 2.0 belt instead of a...

Still trying to figure out something besides belt tension that could have caused this. Been doing a ton of searching through old threads and I did come across another post where someone had this happen multiple times. They even tried setting the belt tension “loose” but it still happened.The...

Caleb’s old 2g was pretty slammed. They are out there you just aren’t looking hard enough or are you wanting the car to look broken from excessive camber?

I would appreciate that very much. I’ve found 3 photos of my car so far in all the shootout albums I’ve gone through. Happens every time I go to a cars and coffee too. Pictures of every car but mine haha. I really wanted a picture of it at the starting line but I only ran on Friday so I doubt...

I won’t directly name the shop but I’m pretty sure they’re listed in my vehicle profile.Thank you sir. I’ve been going to the shootout for a very long time as a spectator and this was by far the best time I’ve ever had. Already have the parts ordered to fix it and I’ll see how deep into the...

Made my first ever passes at the shootout this year and after my 3rd run I started leaking oil inside of the timing cover. Thought I pushed the oil pump seal out so I parked the car till I could get it back home and tear into it.Well after getting it tore down I found that not only did I push...

I have mine in the back by tank but if my return line was stock I would get some barb fittings for that sensor and put it between the fpr and the stock hardline.

I have a set and love them. One day I’ll need a set for the wife’s spyder but not currently. However if you were to ever announce a final run of LCA’s I’ll get in on that regardless of price and throw them on the shelf till I need them.

I went out to the garage and got a picture to shed some light on this discussion. This is why cam gears are remarked when timing a 4g64. The top gear is a 63 gear and the lower gear is a 64 gear. Both are from the exhaust side. Notice one has the timing mark on the tooth and one timing mark is...

All you NEED to install a 16g on a 2g is a j pipe. The stock manifold, downpipe, O2 housing and intercooler piping can all be reused. Yes you can upgrade those things to get more power out of the 16g but without upgrading the fuel system and having some way to tune it then it will all be...

Glad you chimmed in too. I came across your post of time-serting everything in the head. Made me want to do all my manifold holes but that would be a pain to do in the car. If this happens again I guess I’ll do them all.

I’ve never even considered that. Guess I’ll save my money and use the ones that come with the kit.

So I recently had a manifold head stud pull the threads out.After doing a bit of research I decided to use time-serts instead of a helicoil or thread insert. My question is if I am using a stainless manifold and stainless studs one would assume I should use stainless time-serts instead of the...

Gave her a bath and now I’m gonna go fill up on E85 so we can turn up the boost and make some power.

Mine acted in a similar way when my rear toe angle was off every bump I hit the rear end would walk out. The car would walk all over the place when it rained to the point it was undrivable. Doesn’t look like they did any adjustments on the rear of you car most likely because the toe adjustments...

I was using my old 30psi autometer gauge for the bench test. There is a picture above of what I put together to bench test the WG’s. Plus both my Omni map sensor and the gauge currently in my car reflected exactly what the results were on the bench. So idk it’s just strange that every spring...

I’ve already done that. I’ve also benched tested both of my wastegates and found that with 3 different spring combos in them both wastegates don’t open till after the rated spring pressure. Both wastegates react exactly the same as each other with all 3 different spring combos when bench tested...

It wasn’t jumping up and down if thats what you mean by the kangaroo effect. It hit 22psi saw a slight spike to 22.8 and then settled back down to 22. I only ran it out to 5500 though since I’m doing tuning pulls with my remote tuner. The new file I was sent this morning is good to 7500 so I’ll...

It held the 22psi with the solenoid hooked up and all the tables zeroed out. I’m happy with that being my minimum wastegate pressure since the only time it will see that low of boost is when 93 is in the tank for winterizing and cruising to the shootout. Once the 93 tune is finalized I’m running...

Always glad to help that’s what this site and our community as a whole has always been about. Glad it’s working out for you so far.

Just took it for a drive and boost held at 22psi with the new spring combo. I’m happy with that so I’m gonna send it.

I followed the directions in the video that tial put out on how to bench test their wastegates. Just had to put together a tester which I did with stuff I had laying around the garage.They didn’t mention anything about trying to account for the exhaust pressure so it didn’t concern myself...

Pulled the wastegates off the car and bench tested them. With the 24psi spring combo that was in there the WG wasn’t opening till 30+psi. Switched it out to a 9psi spring and it was opening at 12psi. Then I tried the 17psi combo and it is opening around 23psi. I think it’s weird it pushes past...

Yes the top ports were VTA and the lower ports were hooked directly to the compressor cover. The boost was exactly the same as it was with the solenoid hooked up.The 24 psi setup are all three of the heaviest springs in the wastegate. If I lose the small spring it will bring it down to 19psi...

Yes it is activated and clicks like it should when activated so it is being recognized by the ecu. Like I said though it is still over boosting when I run the waste gates directly to the boost source and don’t even have the solenoid in the system. So even if there is a communication issue...

Boost table is zeroed out currently so nothing. It should be just running spring pressure with the table zeroed but it’s still over boosting even when I take the solenoid out of the equation.

I’m trying to get my car ready to be tuned and I’m having a issue with boosting past spring pressure. My mods list is up to date but the basic run down is a 6062 divided T4, 38mm tial WG’s with the 24# springs, 3 port IR boost solenoid with both the top and bottom wastegate ports hooked up and...

I found this post from a couple years back about s90 having an updated version of their throttle bodies with a thicker shaft and better seals. I can’t find any additional info about these supposed improvements. Has anyone ordered the “updated” version? Curious if this is a load of BS or if there...

To give the opposite perspective I’ve ran optimas in all my cars for 25 years and never had an issue. Just spent $250 on a yellow top for the wife’s Tahoe a month ago. IMO they are the best batteries on the market.Today I drove it for the first time since the end of 2020.

New plugs gapped to .018 and a free air calibration of the WB. Ready to start turning it up now.

In to hear what the resident experts have to say about this reproduction gearset.

The only thing I look for is a clean straight and rust free shell. Im not a body man and everything mechanical is getting upgraded. I could care less about miles on a car I’m going to be upgrading everything on anyways.

Really looking forward to a October event. That august heat is brutal.