I think you've got a missing decimal place in the PTW clearance recommendation. I just put a motor together at .0055" PTW and that was fairly loose IMO...

Sure it's not the line for the windshield squirters?

I was driving with Chad on the trip to TX, and was present for everything he mentioned. I was also banned then subsequently allowed back on the TL page, and my comments were deleted as well. I don't have a personal problem with them, I had referred two people to them for rebuilds before this...

I'm betting the problem your having is the random misfire code, which drops two cylinders when it triggers, and will run like you're hearing.If you have your laptop, pull the codes, and verify which "DTC Checks" are enabled on the "DTCs" tab of ECMlink. With a 1g CAS you need to turn off...

You could just dent the pan like Matt and I did, same area for #3 and #4, they're the two that get close.Make sure you check block clearance too, there's a spot I had to grind down that was a little closer than I'd have liked.

I figured it out and called Matt already, it was the very edge of the rod bolt hitting the pan.Aftermarket oilpans are a bit shallower in certain places, and need to be clearanced like a V8 oilpan would be for a stroker motor.This does NOT necessarily show up when hand-cranking the motor...

Thanks for the heads up Drew, I'll make sure to keep an eye on it! The bottom 3/4 of the plate is aluminum, I might make up a copper heat-sink to sandwich between the controller and the carbon, if it's an issue.I'm actually running the pump on low speed full time right now, haven't seen a...

Here's my surge-tank setup, on my 97 Spyder AWD:The intank pump is a Walbro 255, and is just used as a lift pump. 90* bulkheads are used to get the lines in-out of the trunk area, and all Aeroquip Socketless lines were used. The main pump is an Aeromotive Pro Series pump (same as Mike...

Hoping to drop it in today. The turbo is an Evo 8 MR turbo w/10.5 hotside, and I might be using an Evo 9 turbo instead, for now.I'll report back as soon as it's driving! I did just get a few upgrades, like a 24x12x3.5 garrett FMIC, so she should definitely make some power! The goal for this...

Pictures are coming, we just got done taking a bunch in the garage a few minutes ago. Detroit Style will post them ASAP.My initial setup for the Spyder is going to be a 2.4l 4g64 shortblock with a 2g head, FP2's, and this turbo kit with an Evo 9 turbo. Fuel for now is E85, 880's, and a...

I just sent Revshift a message to take a look at this thread, when I get in touch with him I'll update this thread and start a new one for it specifically.

The only one of these manifold/o2 housings in existence is mine. My car will be up and running soon for testing, so unfortunately this info isn't available yet. I was planning on a big intro post for this setup once my car is running and I can show some logs and maybe a dyno sheet.I'll try...

Have you heat-treated them since assembly?

Kiggly once told me that solids were a bad idea, hopefully you have a different experience.Personally I wouldn't run those in anything that would see the street, you can ask Warren about that one. Solids will vibrate most of the bolts in your car loose. I know since I helped do a "bolt...

Knowledge > you.Kiggly's had Mivec on his FWD for at least a couple years now. ;)

No, it's not, and that's where you're getting it all wrong.The difference will be UNDER THE CURVE, which is the entire point.

In your opinion. :thumb:Shearer makes one for the Evo, and it's ~$1100: Shearer Fabrications - Products

The OP's "goals" here today were to find my manifold.Re-read the original post my man...

You're comparing apples to oranges, and you're the only one doing it (OP IS NOT INTERESTED). You can't get twin-scroll performance out of a DSM housing turbo, it's simply a physics/thermodynamics problem, so no "bolt-on" turbo will perform as well, no.I came here to give some insight on a...

That's great, but the picture of the manifold has a stock Evo9 turbo on it, looks applicable to me. ;)

The Evo twin-scroll housing has been proven to work very well in applications from auto-x all the way to 9 second drag cars, this is just fact.The Revshift setup does not require you to buy $500 worth of waste-gates to retain *TRUE* twin-scroll performance. An FP black starts looking...

The only "Evo" manifold that will work on the DSM head with a DSM turbo as a "bolt-on", is the Evo3.

It wouldn't be cheaper to build and then turbo a 420a, then to get a full JDM evo swap (complete with all turbo parts).The "AWD" part of the swap is easy, as I have a Spyder in my garage with the AWD subframe already in it (converting it now!).I could do it in a day after swapping...

You'd still be FWD, and on the street the AWD always wins. RWD isn't a viable option, you're not getting a built motor and a 4-link setup for $5k, and it's not "bolt-on".How would a Mitsubishi stock Evo motor be less *reliable* than a forged-internals motor built by some shop. There are...

Motor parts are similar in price from Evo to DSM, and the transmission rebuilds are less money.It stands to reason that the 10+ year newer platform will be more reliable than the older 4g63, so it could be *cheaper* to maintain if done correctly. The parts are also physically newer, since...

Adding a boost controller will NOT help you *lower* the boost.The only thing you can do to *lower* the boost from where it is now, would be to remove the boost control solenoid, and run the vacuum line straight from the compressor outlet nipple to the wastegate.You could also port the o2...

I did a quick Google search and came up with:The damage they refer to isn't turbocharger/turbine related, it's engine related.

My guess is nowhere, since the Evo 8-9 turbos are reverse rotation, and no t3/t4 housings exist that I know of.

Here's my results, copied from my dyno thread:Uncorrected #'s from Speed Industry's Mustang Dyno: 434WHP / 369WTQ Dyno sheet http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2674/3835342248_f08cb513e7_b.jpgMy setup is listed below for parts reference, important parts: Stock 6-bolt longblock/intake...

60mm. I want to pick up a billet 7/12 cartridge to try out, they're cheap enough!I've actually got the "rough draft" of that post in another tab... I'll go finish that now!EDIT: Posted in the results thread, and posted the datalog in the first post also.

It's in the post, but boost ended up at 30-31psi. I'm on a 1bar spring anyways, and we hit my power goal early so we called it a day.

We put my Talon on the Mustang dyno over at Speed Industry in Troy MI today to dial in speed density calibration on my car, and to get some higher boost tuning done. My setup is listed below for parts reference.I ended up hitting my goal of 430whp at 31psi with a bunch of tuning room at 12.0...

edit: will post in the holset thread/start a new one.Too tired after the dyno, thought this *was* the holset results thread for a minute!

Definitely check for boost leaks, and hook up a datalogger to see if you've got any codes or other dead sensors.I recently bypassed my FIAV due to it failing, would keep my idle very high on start-up, and with it blocked I idle at 750 rock solid after warmup. I still use the ISC, as well.

2g's have a plastic fuel tank, that's very strange...As for the main topic of the thread, you're not likely to get very far legally. You bought a used car "as-is", no warranty, and did not have it inspected at a mechanic (you should have).It's unfortunate, but your only real recourse is...

Any chance you could take a couple "ass" shots? A couple of the guys here at work have been drooling over this for a little while now, and we're very interested to see how it looks.Also, how much did you chop out of the front/rear fenders for tire clearance?

Cometic MLS, they will make them in bigger thicknesses. I had a .071 here, and they go up to .120".www.cometic.com

This is on a car that makes over 700WHP+, 2.5" IC piping, big bar-plate FMIC, and 30psi+ boost, that's the car that was tested.

Jesus Rivera's Car, ran 9.80 on it's first pass down the 1/4mi. Made 800ish WHP too.I bought his *other* car, and built it up myself. The car now has a CF hood, I need to get some better pictures of it when it's nice out again!

No point in going bigger. I have spoken at length with one of the top 3 FWD racers in our community, and he has done pressure drop measurements with a stock 1g TB, and found about 1-2psi TOTAL pressure drop from the compressor outlet to the plenum.Spend your money in other places, IMO.

I have a Frank 5 (60-trim T04E / TD06H) with an 8cm housing on a stock 6-bolt with a Magnus intake and stock cams, and I don't see any spool issues.With a stutterbox and NLTS, spool isn't an issue. With an 18g compressor wheel, it's not going to be a lag monster, and you could pick up some...

They do fit on a 1g, I have seen it in person.They are 17x8, and the stock Evo tire size is 235 treadwidth.

Any updates on this? Anyone with a 1g want to post a review, after putting them on the car?

Rare DSM = 95 Wildberry AWD (few hundred made) 95 Lime Green AWD Talon/eclipse (few hundred made)

Do you like getting garbage in your oil? Well, if you don't block those holes, they are exposed to the elements, and anything in your engine bay.Not to mention that you would get oil over everything due to crankcase pressure.Call Magnus for info on 2.4l Long Rod piston/rod prices...

Comparison; Plugging a GM Maf directly into a DSM (if possible) would be like plugging your Honda Civic ECU into your DSM. They are two different types of sensor, GM Maf is Hotwire, DSM is Karmann Vortex.Buy a Translator.

Forgot to mention, the car started/idled fine with 450's.

My car does this with a MAF-T in blow-thru, PTE 680's, an A-1000 fuel pump, and SX FPR. Hot start is fine, cold start is a complete joke.I'm running DSMlink, with 35% global, and 270 dead time, with the MAF-T's idle cranked up and 50hz maf comp bumped up 35%.I'm going to call Mike at...

I love it Nick!!! ROFL ROFL

You don't get it. What you need to do is *degree* your cams, or by making multiple dyno pulls and moving the gears in 1 degree increments to find the best powerband for your *specific* application.It's like asking me how many ft/lbs my shoelaces are tied to to be comfortable, since you have...