Im looking to upgrade, i dont want to rape my credit card, only make it feel violated and uncomfortable...so, for under $900 bux.. which turbo can i get for max power with a streetable spool..must be internally gated (external stuff would put it past price range)must bolt up to stock...

what is your NORMAL water temp when driving yer car pretty hard..I have an el-cheapo 180 stat from autozone in my car and when cruising around normal i sit at right about maby.. 185..but earlier i was getting on it alot.. high revs, boost then getting back on it.. basically shaggaing ass...

3 years at over 300 to the wheels and going strong on my phantom grip.

thinking of buying one. I was wondering what is involved in the install so far as cutting or removing the bumper support or and whatnot..just curious.

that doesent seem to be it.. the bottom part of the seat is firm.. but the back part seems to move around and jiggle alot.

My passenger seat rattles alot... sounds like its not bolted down all the way.. but IT IS..with a passenger sitting in it.. it doesent rattle..what exactly could be rattleing?leather seats, manual adjust.

well none of you know or care i guess..but supposidly this is a problem.. something about the 1g CAS pissing off the 2g ECU.. i need to install a potentiometer on a certin wire to make it go away..but i dont know what wire or what kind of potentiometer... apparently this is not terribly...

Ok.. first off.. my alternator is definatly on the way out.. it charges infrequently and then comes on. then quits working... and so on.. it has been this doing this a couple of days.. and i intend to replace it soon..the other problem though.. MAY be related to the alt.. maby not.. I...

yes, but your interest rate will be higher.. BUT since you are gonna pay off the bulk of the loan as soon as you sell your old car.. it isnt a big issue really..PLUS after you do get the loan you will start building credit.. which is always a +just go to your bank and give it a shot..

true..you could always get a loan for the new car.. and pay it off with the money you get when you sell your old one..thats what i did with my spyder.. and it cost 13 grand..

and LOOP your water lines, do not block them.

I would not break in any car with a huge honkin ass turbo, use the 14b.. you can run it "dry" but make sure you use a turbo timer..its not like yer gonna be getting on it alot ona brand new motor anyway.

oil from filter housing > oil from head

I round 50 psi of static fuel pressure (idle)

I run 22 psi on pump and get no probs..but i dont tune by knock i tune by wideband 02 and to a less extent EGT temps..

check fuel filter, you have a fuel pressure gauge by any chance...I make it a habit to change my fuel filter every 4th oil change... its a bit overkill.. but fuel filters are cheap.. motors are not

you canA: sell you car while it runs good, and buy a turbo model.B: spend as much as you paid for your car to make it turbo, and run alot slower than a stock turbo and then possably break down..sorry, but that really really is how it goes..

main bearing seal is probably to blaim

If we all only ever had or wanted just what we needed, we would all still be living in caves playing with our own sh!t

between 250 and 400 HP...honest.. thats about as much as can be told.. Tuning + motor shape + unlimitless unknowns..

no, but reading your post cause me to spit all over my monitor while trying to re-create the desired sound effect.."My L2R was a Dual-BB turbo, that sounded like a banshee at 20psi, just a high-pitched scream."Excellent!

"bissol boost box" ROFLOL!!!!as for my intake.. its a 2.5 inch metal pipe with a rubber elbow attaching to the turbo inlet on one side and the fatter part of the stock rubber neck thingy on the other.. the accordian part of course is totally gone.

first off, sorry if this is not the correct section for such a question.anywho, i finally got my slowboy race block more or less broken in and whatnot.. got everything behaving as it should..So i bought me your typical Hybrid 50 tim (t04e .63 ar 3"inlet)i havent gotten it yet...

elaborate.. ?

whenever my car sits still or is driving slow.. slow enough that water doesent run off quickly.. i always get a leak right where the A-pillar meets the top.. anyone else have this prob or a way to fix it?

well everything is back together now, and no leakage whatsoever as far as i can tell..only stupid idle surge :cry: :thumbdown

I dont get it, all the parts i had on my 7 bolt (which did not idle surge any) are now on my new 6 bolt block.. and im getting idle surge..it idles at like 1000 and then slowly rises to 1700 and falls back down, and starts again..I find it hard to believe my ISC is bad.. because it...

oh yea, ive been calling slowboy since 9am and all i get is a buisy signal.

Well i got the tranny and everything out (FUN!) and sure enough.. tha toil gally plug was only in like.. hand tight.. and not torqued down at all...i put some teflon tape on it and ran it down pretty tight..hopefully that fixes it :mad:

Reply from slowboy is that there is an oil gallery plug in the area pointed out in the pic, guess i better drop the tranny to check it out..and btw, aside from this leak (which im sure is prolly my own fault) the engine fired up and ran as smooth as glass... even without balence shafts and...

well.. its kinda high up to be either of those.. and also its coming from between the tranny plate.. and the block.. so whatever is leaking is in that area.. the rear main and its gasket are not..i dunno

I got my stage 1 shortblock from sloboy all finished and installed finally...well.. turns out I have a pretty huge oil leak.. but its in a wierd spot..its OOZING from between the tranny plate and the block..as shown in the pic below..I *think* there is a plug/bolt on...

Ok i fixed it...turns out.. you know the hollow stud on the waterpipe side of the motor.. well i slid the trans on the stud BUT DID NOT put a bolt through it and into the block.. so there was a small gap there.. the trans was not 100% butted up against the engine.. thats why it wasnt...

i dont get it..I just finished a 6 bolt swap and get everything back together.im using my "old" (about 3000 miles on it) ACT2100 and a brand new 6 bolt fidanza flywheel..I had already shimmed the pivot ball some earlier and before the engine swap the car shifted like a dream..I...

very very nice!

ive got my new motor and crap in, but havent wired up the electrical yet,anyone know where i can get a GOOD diagram showing all the plugs of the engine bay harness and where they go?Im sure i can figure it out if have to, but this will make it LOADS easier..thanks

wellyou have to understand my situation..the motor is READY to put into the car... its going in tonight...and i have 15 people telling me 15 different ways to set my timing.. and each says its the only right way..everything ranging from "you just set it to withing 3 degrees of 5...

im not buying DSmlink to set my timing, and I have never met a single person using it.. so i cant borrow their ECU...

ohhhhh ok, so now insted of just needing apocket logger, i need a ####ing standalone computer system just to set my timing???this just gets more redicilous the further it goes...

here are some pics of the harness i did, just for the hell of it..

Ive done everything fine so far, including rebuilt the tranny, i know what im doing..this is the first and probably only thing ill get stumped a little on.where does one aquire the said scan tool from the description listed..also.. it says 96-97.. but i though the 95-96 and then...

so, just go down to autozone and buy the haynes 1G block in 2g swap manual eh?

"""As far as setting your timing, NEITHER logger can do that. All loggers do is read values from the ecu,"""I was told i need it to get the proper timing, because supposidly you cannot ground a 2g ecu while you set the timing like you can a 1G, so what i have been told is that i cannot go by...

i cannot find the engine timing adjuster, it does not seem to be in 2gs.. maby because you cant adjust the timing..i dont know the colors for it, and the picture of the plug is vague..sure if i had a 1g with a motor in it i could prolly go by the pic.. but i have a 2g with no engine in...

i have a 6 bolt in my 2g, and apparently the only possable way to set the timing is with the use of a Data logger..i have been told there is not possable way to properly set the base timing one a 2g using a 1g cas.. without using a logger.. I find that VERY hard to believe but nobody has...

look ------->this is the problem, i do not know how to groun a 97 ECU and I DO NOT want to have to spend over $300 on a device ill never use except to set my timing one tim with..THAT is the problem...

ok.. goddammit.. something here is making sense..what im getting is that i have to buy a stupid datalogger to set my timing.. BUT i cant use a datalogger to set my timing because it wont set right using a data logger..that makes absolutly no sense.