From my understanding, DogBox Racing is back up and running. https://m.facebook.com/pages/Dogbox-Racing/1606503062917462

I will be attempting to fabricate a 10pt cage in my 1g and I have some questions. I tried my best to understand the NHRA rule book with cage requirements but I'm not sure if it left me more informed or more confused. My goal is to make a cage that hugs the inside and cant be seen (within reason)...

That's nice looking man. I never heard of a dynasty 280, is that a replacement for the 200? I see they still didn't throw in ep and en adjustments on them like the 350 has. Pretty cool machine

Those are 2 m8 thru holes with 2" spacing. I didn't feel like filling them up so I just started and stopped around them. It does look pretty funny in the picture. Looks like the bead is sharpied out ha.

I was running bc280 cams in my last build and I have zero complaints about them. My opinion is that too many people fuel the stereo type that BC is garbage and no power can be made on them. So anyone that wants to make some real power just goes with something more expensive ie. Kelford, gsc, fp...

Nice fab work. Only gets better with time like a fine wine. The welds look like they could use some more gas coverage and maybe less heat and little more filler. I'm no expert just my 2 cents. Some mild steel weldment from earlier this week. Nothing special

You did a nice job, would you be able to get a picture/measurement from the exhaust to ground where it passes under the driveshaft Infront of the rear diff? That is where the lowest point would be. Im glad I work in a machine shop, so I will be able to make one of those adapters. Thank you

KYN, that's an awesome exhaust you made there, but how was the clearance around the transfer case and oil pan? I know when I made my 3.5" turbo back it was tight going through that area but then again my 3.5" fit closer to the chassis than any aftermarket 3" I've seen. I don't like the idea of a...

I haven't striked an arch in a while because I've been doing mostly machine work, so I decided to see where I was before welding up a manifold for myself. Nothing special.

First off Darren from FFWD is a great guy to deal with. My fiancé delt with him a lot when she bought me a set of Vader Rods for Christmas. I haven't installed them yet but I will say these things are light and works of art.Darren is always willing to answer any questions and give advice plus...

When I originally installed these seats I followed a write up that utilized angle brackets that are NOT safe by any means. I do suggest buying a set of sparco seat brackets to mount the seats to. Only problem is they are a little expensive ($150 a side). But that is the easiest and most safe way...

R1, it looks really good. It takes a lot of talent and patience to be able to get pie cuts correct. Most people would give up halfway through a project like this. I do like the shape of the dump tube, it looks "factory". For the back purging, it's the correct way to do it but if you look at 85%...

2 In 1 catch can and coolant overflow. More pics later

Thanks man, yea my brother has a "thing" for taking photos. I would like to get a couple more now that the headlights are redone.

Last year in ohio. Pic my brother took after I washed it.

Wow that 2g cage looks gorgeous with those gussets. I would like to see more cages as well so I can plan mine.

I agree with Livedsm. I was nervous about break-in on my new motor but I just manned up and actually drove the car. A Lot of decel for first couple drives. Then about 300 miles in I got the car tuned. 45+psi of boost and over 1000 miles later and 20+ passes at the track, everything is still...

321 SS dump tubes for an Evo

R1, Nice man it doesn't look bad. Great job on the pie cuts. The bends look very consistent and that's hard to do. Great test piece.

Not trying to be mean or offensive but I guess going fast isn't for everyone. My girlfriend has an sti with most bolt-ons and she loves taking corners but when she gets on it she gets mad because its still not nearly as fast as my car. Cornering is fun, accelerating is more fun.

Pretty fast shifting. Wish I could bang my shep 4 Trans that fast. Also what is that whining after the pass?

Wow that's pretty impressive. How conservative is the tune on your car? Stm is the shop to go to, very happy with the tune Emery did on my car.

Yea this year was pretty beat. I can't believe there was a dj playing that honda crap music drowning the place out. There were 4 Dsms in the bracket class and I took second behind a guy that was racing his moms summit with 134 event wins under his belt...... At least I still made $50.

After getting different direction from MQ with the suggestion of an exhaust leak from the egr hole I found this noise was indeed an exhaust leak. That explains why I found nothing with the stethoscope. The plastic thermal Magnus gasket has melted and warped and will be replaced with a phenolic...

Well it seems like this is an appropriate thread to post this. Last night I launched the car and and banged second gear then came to a stop. I quickly noticed this noise and turned the motor off. I then restarted the car and the noise was still there. It's weird because its like a single tick...

Yea I think we got a couple people that can meet up with you and just Bvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv. What you think? Shot out? We meeting in mta train station at 10am sharp cheddar.

So Mitch was able to get it to work or those settings were an attempt? My car is currently down and I'm trying to set up a 2 step using a clutch switch but would like to have a vss 2 step as well and thus us what I was able to find. I personally haven't tried these settings yet but my friend...

Well I guess it wasn't long for me to post in this thread, I have 430 miles on my entire build including my Motor city reman 160 amp saturn alternator. The car was running good and charging very well until I got the car tuned 40 miles ago. Well now the car runs like crap because the alternator...

I think I will have to get this. Thanks for the link. STM will be tuning the car so maybe they know the settings to use and if not then I will order this piece.

Wow that seems like the best fix yet. But where can I get it? It is the Terratrip T007 but I can't find it anywhere especially in US currency. Where did you get yours? Thank you.

My friend just got series 2 in his 1g and is unable to get his VSS working also ( bigggg surprise). I will be running series 2 as well and I Would like to find a solution to this fluke. I called AEM yesterday and asked them what was going on and they said it works totally fine on there shop 1g...

Over 30k here not including the price of the car ($2,650) and about to put another $1600 into it....... I think I just threw up in my mouth.

My solution was I had to unplug the Power transistor and solder the green wire (tach signal) from the cdi to the white wire (number 4) on the power transistor plug and now my tach works.

Yes I did have a pedal stop in there but Steve @ PTT told me to take it out and extend the clutch as far down as it will go and since they use a regressive spring it gets hard then soft then it would get hard again and that is there built in clutch stop so the fingers aren't over extended. He...

Let me start off with this, I have been having a clutch drag issue since I first drove the car (151 miles on it now) after being fully built. New parts are as follows and all BRAND NEW:Rebuilt pedal assembly OEM master cylinder STM SS clutch master to slave line Isuzu slave cylinder OEM...

I use a piece of wood in between the jack and the crossmember. I place the jack under the engine mount.

Now that's a legit antilag setup /\/\

Yes that is the only thing I haven't replaced and at 43 bucks I'm doing it. I should have it In a couple of days. I will also be calling shep trans and PTT to ask what they suggest.Talked to PTT today and they are helping me solve this clutch drag issue. So far they gave me instructions to...

It is a braided line from master to slave. Brand new slave and not so new master. I don't remember having these problems when I took the car off the road to build it. Also the switch at the top of the pedal adjustment is all the backed out for max throw.

Some background: 150 miles on new engine, trans, clutch, pedal assembly...... Ect. As I have been trying to put milage on this build I can't seem to help but notice the car doesn't like to go into 1st gear when stopped. It will either hang on the syncros for a bit then go into gear or it will...

Lets hope STIs don't start showing up........ Jk, if it wasn't for an STI I wouldn't of made it there last year haha.

Old thread but I just installed the sparktech pro + cdi and I'm not getting spark. The instructions say nothing about the power transistor. Is this something I need? Thanks for the help.

That thing is huge, what did that cost? $80?

So I'm in the middle of installing the pro cdi COP setup and the instructions mention nothing about the power transistor. So it sounds like common sense to not even touch it but I just don't want to screw up something when I'm a couple days away from first start up. Need answer ASAP. Thanks

That's sick /\ This was last years cake, she stepped it up a notch this year lol.

This is just a rough non accurate sketch of what is going on in there. I should of tool pics before I sealed her up. My father also said I should of welded everything from the inside but I like exposing welds as you know is an art all in itself.Actually Welding the fittings from the inside...

Well I guess this is what happens when you poison your girlfriends with boost. They get you a turbo cake! Lets see them cakes!

I just picked up the pro Cdi unit and I will be installing it today, I'm glad I read this thread first because I will not be running an aftermarket tach and I would like to see my rpms lol. So I will follow the instructions and if something don't work I know what it is. Good thread.

Well had to finish the can so here it is tacked up.