BEP is Bullseye Power.

It's really the vents on the inside of the rotors that matter when talking about mounting/rotation direction. The are designed (slanted in one direction) to draw in air while the rotors are turning to help cool them off. If they're mounted backwards the vents can't draw in air.

The best way to get the kind of look you're describing is to do an actual HID projector retrofit with your headlights. Some reading material...http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/412804-how-hid-retrofit-97-99-oem-headlights.html...

Not sure exactly what you're asking, but you need both for the engine to run properly. That is, unless you convert it to use the 1g cas. However, if all you're missing is the crank trigger plate, I would think it'd be easier to just get another plate.

Good 'ole DSMs. They're such multipurpose tools.

As everyone said, the engines aren't compatible. However, to answer your question in the first post, the lowering springs should work on your car. The fuel pump I believe should work too. Most things like that (body, interior, suspension, etc.) should work. It's the power train and related...

I mean no offense jtmcinder, but no actual "locking" occurs in a viscous coupling. There are two plates with fins on them, and a very thick viscous fluid in the diff. the plates are attached to the output shafts. When one plate is spinning faster than the other it drags the fluid and the other...

Buddy Club P1 Racing II Plus to be exact. Good eyes guys!:thumb:

Well I normally sit slouched, but I could take some high res pics of me siting upright if you like. Seriously though, I'd like to see some posters of the "in action" track day shots some of the members on here take of their cars. With their permission of course. I just like action shots though.

32 mm if I remember correctly. And you should be able to get one at a parts store. I know when you buy a new cv axle it comes with a new nut.

420a's water pump is timing belt driven. To the OP that sucks tho. Sorry to hear it. I didn't see the other posts before I posted. The smoke in the exhaust is probably burning coolant/oil not condensation. Hope everything turns out ok.

The "smoke" coming from the exhaust is probably steam since it's cold out. Condensation builds up in the exhaust as it warms up then evaporates. It's never a good idea to run an engine without the harmonic balancer on it, but I don't thiink it would cause a slapping noise from just not being...

...Lacey Chabert...mmmmm

When my poor little T25 blew up on a dyno pull. Everyone's like "Wow, I like your car. Sounds really good man." Then poof, instant mosquito killer. I have to say though, that turbo took some abuse before it bit the dust.

From what I understand the "built in" clearance in forged aluminum pistons is there for heat expansion. As the engine warms up and the pistons get some heat in them they expand slightly and take up the extra clearance. My guess would be to have the cylinders bored to match the piston plus...

I work for a coil spring manufacturer. I do a few things there; shot peening, load testing, powder coating/finishing.

sidewaystsi, I don't know if this helps but I saw this thread earlier regarding Jackal.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/391035-ds-map-back.html

Very nice! I especially like the power and obd placement.

No, you cannot put a 6bolt crank in a 7bolt block. The main bearing caps are completely different.

I would definitely purchase one if they were offered again. Sign me up!

Just a shot in the dark, but it might be a loose ground. Since you had the head off, maybe you forgot to tighten a ground wire? Or its got some corrosion on it and isn't making good contact. The reason I say this is because I had to replace the engine in my civic this weekend ( I know I know...

I agree with gofer, but I guess it's all about what give ya piece of mind. I will say however, to stick with the oem hydraulic tensioner. A solid tensioner is basically a block with a threaded rod through it. Since it's not self-adjusting like the hydraulic one, it will need constant check...

If you're just looking to get it running again with a bare minimum budget, obviously get a new connecting rod (maybe a set if you can find some used for cheap) and new rod bearings. And yes its a good idea to replace the rod bolts with new ones. Inspect the pistons for any damage or cracks...

+1 to what Eeeeky said. I had the same problem with oil build up in the spark plug area of the valve cover and it was a leaky oil cap. I have the 4G63 but I would imagine the same problem could happen on either engine. Over time the rubber gasket under the oil cap gets hard from the hot/cold...

The clunking does sound like a sloppy u-joint. Does it happen mostly when the transmission shifts gears? I don't know about the pulling to one side though. Maybe a bad wheel bearing?

Fun kart kid is right, the 420a uses a modular clutch or "clutch pack" as I've heard it called. The bolts to hold it on will go through the empty holes on the outside of the pressure plate (the ones you pointed to with the red arrow). But basically the pressure plate, friction disk, and the...

Sorry, yes the turbine housing is clockable too. The t-25 uses 4 bolts and these C-shaped brackets to hold the turbine housing on. Also yes the 14b compressor housing is smaller at barely 5" (have one of those sitting around too). The 14b compressor and turbine housings are clockable as well...

No problem. And the compressor housing is clockable on the t-25. So that should help with fitment too, since the compressor outlet has that 90* bend. Looks like you've got all of it figured out already lol. Sounds like a pretty awesome project man. Good luck. Maybe post some pics for us while...

I measured the compressor housing on a t-25 I have sitting around. Its about 5 1/4" across like the red line in the pictured you posted. Theres only one problem with using a t-25 or 14b like you're wanting to use it though. The oil returns on those turbos are gravity fed. So they need to be...

Honestly the 7bolt block is just as buildable as the 6bolt and crankwalk, if that's what you're worried about, is very overrated. What's going to make the build reliable is doing it right not cheap, getting your machine work done correctly, and making sure all your tolerances are in spec. You...

No you don't have to use the lube on the stud where it goes in the block. Its a good idea to clean the threads in the block though before you install the studs. And remember, the studs should be just hand tight in the block. No need to go twisting on them with a big ratchet. Use the lube on the...

Bringing up kind of an old thread here, but I am looking into getting the prothane bushing kit for my 2g. I already have the engine mount inserts and I love them. I was wondering though, I haven't seen a picture of the bushing, but why should you not install the one in the front lower control...

Sorry to hear about your engine. That always sucks. Well let me start by saying that anything is possible provided you put up enough time and money lol. To answer your first question, it IS possible to swap the 2000 Eclipse RS engine (its the 2.4 SOHC 4 cylinder if I remember right) into your...

Welcome to the forums! Hope you enjoy being a member and I hope this site helps you as much as its helped me with everything.

This style of manifold is great for performance, but usualy is a bit on the expensive side. Basically though, if you're looking for a performance manifold its best to get an equal length one if it fits in your budget. Tubular manifolds are usually lighter and less restrictive than cast ones...

Not all manifolds are like that. There are lots of diffrent styles. The T3 reference is the style of flange on the end of the header that bolts to the turbo (a T3 style exhaust housing on the turbo). The design of the manifold itself, I've seen it called a "ram horn" style most of the time. Like...

Try lining up the cam gears, putting the belt on them, then securing the belt to the gears with clips or zip ties. That way the gears can't turn seperately because they are bound together. Something like this picture- http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/Tbelt/fig14.gif

Sounds and pretty much looks like an AFPR. The external wg should be fine as long as the internal wg flapper wasn't just left dangling. As far as external wastegates go, from what I understand they are more stable and don't suffer from boost creep at higher boost levels compared to internal...

This addition may be totally useless, but since you said the car sat for an extended period of time make sure the tires are in good shape and are going to hold up for the trip. I had a dry rotted tire tear on me going down the road, not fun. Also the leak from the pipe on the valve cover can be...

Gotcha. Yeah sorry for not being very helpful in my response. Try the dealer again and hopefully you'll get someone who can actually help you. But if they are still being douche bags about it you could pm me the VIN of the car and I'll call the dealer I usually call here and get the code. That...

I had one stock radio that had the code on a sticker on the back of it. But any time I need to get a code for the stereo I just call the dealer and tell them the VIN of the car it came out of. I don't have a hook up at any dealer or anything they just tell me for free. $50 for some information...

Like 1993eclipseGS said, are you sure its oil smoke? You should check for shaft play in the turbo. With a blown turbo you're burning oil and coolant through the engine/exhaust. So running the bad turbo you risk running low on oil/coolant and causing some major engine damage. Also the longer you...

Sorry I edited my other post after I realized you were asking for the 1g. I was giving you the 2g sizes.

The dash speakers are 4" I believe. The doors are 6 1/2" and backs are 6x9". I've also read that the doors can be 5 1/4" and the backs can be 6 1/2" depending on which factory sound system your car came with.

After a while the rubber seal under the edge of the oil filler cap gets hard and doesn't seal anymore. I think you can get a new seal from the dealer. Or a new oil cap with a new seal will work too. I had the same problem, and I'd end up with a puddle of oil in the valve cover where the plug...

I don't know if it would effect the flappers or not but I've read the hot tanking is hard on aluminum parts and tends to pit them. If I remember right jet washing is a better alternative. Of course it all depends on the solution being used in either. From what I understand though, harsher...

Agreed. I seriously doubt you hurt anything. Just make sure its in time before you tighten everything up and crank it. The valve springs alone aren't really strong enough to do any damage like that, even if there was some valve to piston contact.

Well as far as the water pump goes, the pulley itself just bolts to the shaft that drives the propeller in the water pump. So if the bearings in the water pump are bad you'd have to replace the whole water pump. Just spin it freely with nothing on it and see if it turns without much if any...

Um...just set them in the head and put the cam caps on top. Tighten the bolts hand tight first then torque them down with your torque wrench. Tighten them down from the outsides of the head in to the middle. Like I-1 then the one with the big arrow, then I-2 then I-5...like that. Make sure you...

The part with the spring goes toward the engine.