surprised you haven't hit fuel cut...what boost are you running at the moment?

RRE email these guys

yup, it's his actuator...

I had the same problem about a year ago....turned out to be my actuator. Since nothing happened when you connected the j-pipe straight to it suggests yours is bad. remove and replace it - problem solved. Call up RRE they might have one laying around for cheap...and yes this is correct.

you mean tuner/logger right? :thumb: hahah seriously you should think about the tuning aspect before you start pushing more air into the engine. you don't want to be knocking and not knowing it.

have you disconnected the battery recently? you may have reset the ecu and now it's trying to adjust the idle...happens to me all the time.

+1 I'm gonna have wet dreams about this....no offense OP!

i think you're talking about the hoses going to and from the stock boost solenoid. Basically what you're doing is bypassing the solenoid (which tries to act as a boost controller). So to answer your question - no it won't hurt anything. Forget that guide on the VFAQ and just follow the one I...

are there ever any dsm events in SoCal (maybe i should say near SoCal) or are all the east-coast guys hogging the scene? I know the law sucks over here but damn...I don't want to drive across the country to see some action.

try following this guide: Best way to install a MBC

Coilovers would be ideal but since we're talking about a budget I'd get a set of springs that will lower the front more than the rear, especially since it's fwd. The center of gravity will shift toward the front in turn helping to keep traction off the line. This, as well as LSD, slicks, and a...

get an hx40 :thumb: also, i think the lag would help you keep traction off the line...

niiiice, I live so close and had no idea there were meets in HB! Maybe I'll cruise out next tuesday and check it out.

Definitely re-wire it. Fuel pumps were designed to operate at 14v (the voltage the car is supposed to supply assuming no voltage drop). Like stated previously, the stock wiring only allows 10-11v, which can limit the actual amount of fuel flow. You should read up on this article at RRE: Voltage...

That's exactly what I was thinking. If so, wouldn't there be a power increase?

So, I just rewired my fuel pump today and after a couple of bumps in the road (alarm remote battery died causing my car battery to die :notgood:) it fired up and now when I drive I can swear I feel more power. My new tires even chirp shifting to second now. Does anybody have actual proof that it...

You can get an evo big 16g for around $600. Unless you have an eprom, how do you plan to "git it chipped?" You'll need to get some 650 injectors, a pump and at least an AFC to achieve your goal.

I doubt it's crankwalk. When's the last time you replaced your tranny fluid? Also, you should consider converting to a speed density setup with ecmlink. With it you can eliminate the maf all together as it uses different sensors to calculate the amount of fuel to inject (the maf sensor can be...

I think your bleeding method might be the problem. Here's how I do it (with help from a friend): Open the reservoir and put fluid in. Close it afterward. Loosen the bleeder and push the pedal to the floor. With the pedal down, tighten the bleeder then pull the pedal up. Keep repeating until all...

I guess I'm getting an hx40 :hellyeah:

thanks for the info jusmx141. just for clarification, how much larger is the turbine wheel on an hx40/h1e over a hx35/h1c? there's no specific info in the holset thread about this. I mean, they could be the same size, right? If this was the case then it should output the same as an hx40...

I figure, from what I've read, that the h1c is identical to the hx35 (as far as compressor and turbine wheels) and I know the hx35/40 hybrid can flow some major air. With that said, I'm pretty confident it would be a competent turbo. I wouldn't consider this setup 'inefficient,' however...

sounds like you have a boost leak...this same symptom occurs when you vent your BOV to the atmosphere too. do a boost leak test and fix the leaks. Also, the orientation of the BOV doesn't matter; it looks fine in the pic.

dang it! it's a wh1c... I guess it's the same as an hx35 but with a v-band. Do you guys think I should still keep it and still make a hybrid out of it (6 blade 60mm compressor wheel), or should I get an hx35?

Yeah, I remember having a really tough time with my rear motor mount, it took me forever to get it. Try leaving the other mounts loose so there is some amount of play. The only other thing I can suggest is take them off and start with the rear first. AND KEEP TRYING! :thumb:Also, I think I...

well it's an 8 blade wheel but I'm gonna convert it to a hybrid after a nice rebuild. I'm just hoping to god it is in fact an hx35. I'll tell you what...if it is I'll give you rep :D

I haven't received it yet so I don't know what numbers are on it :( is there anyway to tell just by the model of the truck? thanks.p.s. you scared me at first glance of that post! hahah

Speed density would be sweet! I'm kinda bummed you guys put more priority toward the EVO guys, in terms of this new lite version. Like you said...you already have the code laid out for the DSM implementation and you could work out the kinks through testing :) Eh, I'm just being impatient...Keep...

I just bought a turbo from a wrecked 95 dodge ram, 12valve cummins turbo diesel engine, 5 speed. I'm assuming it's an HX35 but I would like some sort of confirmation...can someone help me with this?

The throwout bearing doesn't "release" anything. It allows the pressure plate to spin freely while pressure is applied from the fork/slave cylinder. If he had a bad throwout bearing he'd most likely hear a loud noise.

Not too sure how well these work...maybe someone who's tried ebay cables can chime in and let the rest of us know. Also, unless you have a serial port on your laptop I'd get an OBD2 to USB instead.

This tells you that you definitely have a problem with the clutch system. you may have air in the line, bad seals on your cylinders, or you need to adjust the engagement point on the pedal. The shaking is kinda confusing though...maybe the two aren't related.

Anybody have any "inside information" on when this is going to be released for DSMs? As of now all I see on the announcement page is a lite version for early EVOs.

Hey dude scratch that whole building it idea...I think it's only for 1Gs. You can get a nice OBD2 to USB cable from ECM Tuning for $65. Here's the link: OBD1/OBD2 USB cable

maybe try adjusting the master cylinder rod? The shake could very well be chatter considering you have a 2600 and it's presenting itself while the clutch is slipping. But that would not explain the deceleration or turning right phenomenon. I'd consider rebuilding the master or slave cylinders...

what's wrong? describe whats happening...

Get an XTD clutch from ebay :thumb: My install went perfectly and it's had no problems at all for 12k miles

I'd definitely change those wires and get a new set of plugs, even if that isn't the problem. You can never trust previous owners :D Do a boost leak test and when you can get those injectors that car is screaming for (with a means to tune them of coarse). With regard to the idle surge a simple...

dsmlink is pretty user-friendly. do yourself a favor and buy a crappy laptop for next to nothing, install dsmlink (software), and do some research on street tuning with dsmlink :thumb: (hopefully you have the dsmlink cable).here you go: How to street tune using DSMLINKAlso, there are some...

Fuel cut, bad plugs/wires, or a boost leak. This thread (along with about a million others) suggests a common rule: get the support before you slap on the turbo!!!! The stock fuel system is virtually maxed out in all aspects with the T-too-small-25. However, since you are running @ 6psi it would...

Stay true to the spirit of dsm tuning and build it yourself! :hellyeah: haha it's pretty easy to do (and cheap) and you'll learn some stuff along the way. One of the links above tells you how in case you missed it. If you don't want to I guess you could try ebay for an OBDII to Serial (or USB)...

Hey I forgot to mention: you could connect a tube from the nipple (on the turbo's compressor housing) to the wastegate actuator and use that as a way to limit your boost...

that's what I figured seeing all the pics of wheels inside housings and noticing the precision of the fit. At least I know you can send it out to be done...Thanks!

heheheh LOL you need a boost controller (preferably a ball and spring type). you can try ebay for around 15-20 bucks or if you're rich you can find them at many dsm vendors...I got mine off ebay and i've been happy with it for a year and a half

just turn down the boost so it doesn't cut and wait to get some type of controller and injectors...hope this helped :thumb:

Hey, thanks for the info guys. So we're talking about something you can't do yourself (unless you have a machine shop at your disposal), you definitely have to get it machined. Do you know the maximum bore you can achieve? Do you think 6mm would be too much?

well, if they are stock i'd say that is most likely your problem (depending on what boost you're running). I'd suspect they are stock if the car came without an AFC or something to control the injectors...

do you have any fuel mods?

mods? when you say 'falls on it's face' does it sputter or does it just seems like it hits a wall?

This might seem a little ridiculous but I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to bore out their compressor housing to fit a bigger wheel inside. For instance, take an HX40 8 blade (54mm) and bore out the housing to fit a 6/7 blade (60mm). Could this be done?