yes

update?

do you have any ideas that you wouldn't mind sharing?

any updates ?

every little bit helps :)

you could just de-pin the plug and pull it through the shaft

any pics?

chromoly 2g front subframe + strut bar that acually mounts to the firewall

any news on the front sub frame?

that would be the high pressure line, correct? and the barbed fitting is the return?

- aluminum cover plate in the engine bay when removing the abs module - ss brake hard line kits - aluminum door handles

any update on the front sub?

i believe the 2-wire plug is for your alarm

any news on the subframe?

what about joey t. http://project2g.com/ over 100k in his ride im sure he's makes the top 5

any updates?

this is for aempro. it shouldnt be too much different in tuner

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/424709-bad-alternator-what-some-good-upgrades-replacements.htmleither one should be fine 1g- 75 amps 2g- 75 ampsalso consider 7th gen galant - 90 amps direct fit 1g = MD149750 ('89 - '93 Galant) 2g = MD327535 ('96 - '98 Galant)

they were available,i got mine(reverse carbon) from gtfab years ago when he first made them. the only issue was the price. it was the same for the carbon /f.glass doors, full carbon was more $$$ and all f.glass was cheaper.

why not get reverse carbon doors(fiberglass skin,carbon frame). door would be a bit stronger even though its gutted.is that full weight(panel,glass,etc..) or just with glass and speaker?

what about the 8232 coils?

have you talked to john at ipt IPT Performance Transmissions | Performance Parts | Torque Convertersi know he's done quite a few (mine included)

igniter testing http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/229419-how-test-power-transistors.htmlcan you disconnect the msd (delete plug)or is it hardwired in? goin back to stock might be easier to help diagnose the problemdo you have a chilton/haynes manual?

according to fal it can be tinted also its alot easier to see through than percy's glass.

^ how did you install yours.(screws,glue,etc...)part# is 9008 Flex-a-Lite Automotive Search results for: '9008' a month wait though since there custom orders there cheaper through retailers

CarJacket, the Original Car Storage Bag - CarBag - Protective Jackets for Storing Your Car or Motorcycle. Made in the USA.

it looks like the map sensor it should be bolted directly to the manifold

pic here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/418081-davies-craig-elec-water-pump-reverse-flow-2.html#post153361016

i would probably bolt them to the metal plate under the pass side carpet(where your abs ecu is). so atleast there somewhat grounded. from what i read the noise filter is inline so it shouldnt really matter where you bolt it. (not 100% sure)

#3 pic - both should have brackets,i would probably bolt them to the firewall (left is injector resistor pack,right is ignitor) #4 pic - noise capacitor should be bolted as close to the coilpack as possible #5 pic - i believe that is bolted to the frame rail on pass. side (omron generator...

having a crank sensor is more accurate since it eliminates timing belt stretch/whip. i believe there are a few threads on this subject.

does the polarity of the coolant sensor matter?

the issue im having is the pump wont cycle on/off when set temp is reached. i have it wired into the stock sensor and it works fine. is there sumthing wrong with the controller or do i have to use there sensor?

do you have an auto?http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/298047-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.html

is there any reason why the evo 9 comp. mount is vertical and not horizontal like the others in post #25. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153186961-post25.htmldoes it matter how the comp. arm is mounted to the subframe?

Blurred Talon do you have any pics of your setup how is your coolant sensor wired(tapped into stock?) aren't these pumps supposed to cycle on/off when set temp is reached?

it could also be the crank sensorthe female starter plug is attached to the battery harness

1 pic - ac compressor 2 pic - coil pack 3 pic - left = knock sensor right = coolant temp sensor 4 pic - starter connectorpics are too fuzzy to determine exactly what they are hopefully im not too far off also what color are the wires

better? you could even get rid of the 3rd mounting point(bottom left) if its not needed

is there a reason the comp. arm has to be bent besides wheel clearance?

would something like this work

i dont think mounting would be to much of a problem to fab something up i found very little info on the eci setupWelcome to Hydratech Braking Systems :: High Performance Hydraulic Brake Assist Systems this might be better than finding a donor carwhat about electric brake assist? ABS...

has anyone done this what donor setup would work the best lookin to go this route or possibly this: ECI Universal Brake Assist (UAB)any info would be appreciated

lesson learned (wires came loose) :ohdamn: i guess i should upgrade from elec. tape to solder or better yet a crimper

i have id2000 hi-z injectors if you dont solder all 5 wires together (remove them from the harness) will the car still start. cause mine does,it idles like crap but runs

you can use this for the 1g cas, evo+stock 2g tps sensor (have to make keyways for it to fit) AMP Jr. Power 4 Position Housing [Black] 5950 Search Results : New United Race Tech, New United Race Technot sure if this goes here but these are oem (in a way)autometer gauges -...

any info on the front frame?

any pix?

New United Race Tech, New United Race Techask for justin

stock 2g acc. cable "L" tab is cut from the coolant bottle bracket works fine