is there a clear answer as to whether the evox calipers will work with 8-9 rotors? i really dont want to have to ditch these rear X calipers and find 8-9 calipers and rotors if i dont have to. it was mentioned in that link @steve-o_95_GST but there reall wasnt real clarity in anyones answer

i am currently in the middle of doing the EvoX brembo swap on my 2g and have run into a roadblock sort to speak. Has anyone else done this conversion on a 2g yet? i have not been able to find much information about it. i have the fronts bolted on and they seem to be good but the rears is...

i checked the tps sensor but it was secure so i guess i just burned up the clutches in the trans. I guess its time for a built IPT trans and call it a day

I will try and drive it tomorrow but chances are its not going to move or move much. I have only had the parts on for less than a week and only used the shift box 1 time just to try it out. I did not use it all all while cruising, i did turn it on and tried to shift with it while the problem...

Inly reason i dont think its clogged is because i drove the two hours on friday sometimes pretty aggressively, i feel like it would have happened during the drive and not after sitting all night and all day at the show. Forgot to mention it will not even go into reverse just revs

I have the forced four shift box but i was not using it at the time this happened i was using normal tcu control. The shift box has a switch to turn it on and off for full line pressureI drove the car 2+ hours to a show with no issues. Went to leave the show today and boom

I didnt do the job, a very well respected shop did the install when i had it in for fp red upgrade so i would assume they took the necessary steps to ensure proper drivability. There is trans fluid on the dipstick but tough to say the level at which it is at. As i stated the fluid is still red...

Recently installed a koyo rad, STM trans cooler and forced four plus shift box on my 96' spyder gst auto. Today while driving the car started to buck severely while deaccelerating and will not accelerate after beginning to move again until it cools for a bit. But even after cooling down the...

im picking up a set of Evo 8 and Evo 10 wheels on the cheap. trying to get a feel of what tires everyone thats running these wheels are using? any help would be appreciated. thanks

similar thing happened to me, oil was dripping on the timing belt and getting flung up on the hood and firewall. i removed the timing covers to find my oil pump sprocket was coming loose. tightened her up and problem solved

i am running the STM kit without the fitting and i have had no problems with the line leaking at the tank.

i also ran into this problem. all i did was weld a barb fitting into the j-pipe, hook it up to boost controller and run other line to WG and walahhh no issues.

im in the same boat with my gst im runnin 2.8 60ft times on a .426 reaction time. no hook up in my car with street tires : ( best i can pull is a 14.5 at 105mph with 16g pushing 24psi

Im in the market for a new radiator and am pretty set on the Koyo rad. Ive read the previous post about them but they are pretty outdated. The stock fan does slightly touch the j-pipe at the moment so the larger core is going to require a slim fan. Is anyone currently running this radiator and...

The battery is only a year old. Was replaced with the reman alternator. Now being that some of the post about the galant alternator are so old can they still be bought new? I contacted my local mitsubishi dealer and he informed me that part# MD327535 is not available anymore but the part# has...

i think its the alternator, like i said i never had this problem until i got this shitty napa remanufactured. i think im going to take it down to my local advanced and get it checked out. i will also look into Q33 on the ecu and see if i notice anything unusual. im guessing the galant 90amp...

Ok so im in the market for a new alternator, my problem is that i have a crappy napa remanufactured alternator that doesnt charge. Unless my car sits overnight when i start it up my volts never go above 10.5v-11v until i rev the car up to 4k in which time the volts jump to 13-14v. I was told...

always hold these meets on the same weekend as carlisle : (

^ +1 i have 18x8.75 XXR 527's wrapped in 225/45's. minimal stretch on tein coils. i love the look while at the same time not giving up funtionality. my fender sits right over my tire with minimal camber as well. its your car do what you want, if your not making 500+ hp like most of us here...

im from monroeville and theres 2-3 of us out this way. if any meets are goin on definately post it on here

i mounted my 527's on 225/40r18 and they look great. minimal tire strectch, i havent driven the cars with the wheels on yet so i cant comment on the ride but as far as the tires go they look great.

i am experiencing a similar situations except my gauge is pegged all the time. i have a Autometer cobalt oil pressure gauge that worked fine for 4 months then all of the sudden one day it read 60psi and never moved again??? i contacted autometer about the issue but before i send it back to...

well first off your not leaning out it if it drops to 13.0/1 that would be getting richer anything higher than 14.7/1 would be running leaner. do you immediately let off when you see it dropping into the 13.0/1 range? stay on it a little longer and see where it stops at WOT. i have a similar...

96' gst spyder. 18x8.75 35mm off set with 225/40r18 tires yes those are the wheels i am looking to buy but in gold or bronze

looking into getting some XXR 527 18x18.75 wheels over winter. anyone have any experience with the fitment of these wheels? will i need spacers and longer studs?

in Delmont theres a place called FJ Performance whether they work on DSM or not idk. Also J&S dyno in verona, they work with Nate from TPG tuning who is a great DSM wiseman.

So i did a BLT and found several leaks. My j pipe, BOV, and throttle body and BISS screw are all leaking air. Would it be more beneficial to rebuild my stock 2g throttle body or go for the 1g ecimulti manifold and 1g throttle body?

I have not replaced the tb. Stock 2g tb and intake manifold

Bov is recirculatedI do need to do a blt but can those issues also be contributed to the tps sensor or iacv

I have only tried making it harder and softer. But it still seems to flutter no matter whatWhen you say look inside the bov should i take the recirulating tude off and look inside?

I kinda had a feeling about that i just wanted to make sure. My car does tend to lean out sometimes and rpms drop significantly but usually doesnt turn off, a/f usually catches itself and adds more fuel bringing my idle back to 900rpms. I do think i have an idle issues. When i start the car...

Mine does a similar thing when building low boost on my evo316g. but when i accelerate quickly and let off the gas it seems normal. I have my heavy spring in my Greddy rz bov. Max boost is 22 psi. Should i go to the lighter spring

Was driving around and everythIng seemed fine until i come to a stop. Car boggs down and autometer oil gauge reads 0, rpms drop to 100-200rpm and and car shuts off and oil light comes on. Car fires right back but continues to do the same thing until i give it gas or begin moving in which oil...

I have about 2,000 miles on my rebuild and was just wondering what a good choice of oil would be to run after my final oil change on the break in? Currently im using Valvoline 15w-40 diesle oil to clean out the assembly lube and anything that may be hanging around in the engine. I was going to...

i am having a similar issue except mine only comes on when im at a complete stop. As soon as i accelerate the light goes away i think the wire on my sending unit is loose and/or going bad but it doesnt happen everytime i drive the car. Any thoughts?

when i did my rebuild not one shop in the area ie. valley honda, pittsburgh crank, evanuik performance, or a few older local guys wanted to touch my block and all used the same reasoning. they didnt want to assemble my block for fear that it would blow up and they didnt want to be responsible...

is anyone going to this "Lets see them Whips" car show or the starlite im torn.

the heli coil size will go to 10x1.25. stock studs are 8x1.25. you can pick up heli coils at any auto parts store. another route to go is a time sert which is easy as long as there is still some thread left to tap into.

i did heli coil and make sure to use red loctite

just got my engine back from a rebuild and notice what appears to be idle surge but from what i have been reading about it im leaning towards it being something else. ive read the terrys talon article but somethin about it doesnt add up for me. when i start my car and it idles my wideband...

but stays steady 12-14 on my volt meter but lights are still coming on

well the shop that built my engine got it for me from napa. probably a rebuilt napa brand and battery is also napa. it literally has less than 500 miles on it.

wow thats pretty lame i just got this alternator and its already failing? any specific reason this could have happened?

im having the same issue with my car it just started on sunday after a long trip home. new alternator and new battery and my volt gauge never falls below 12-13 volts. any other reason this could happen. also its only the brake light and battery light on mine.

im in

my car did the exact same thing in the same spot after my rebuild. started it up and it immediately started pouring oil from the same spot. took to the shop that built my motor and they are claiming head gasket failure. I agree with the diagnosis but as others have stated check the specs on...

after doin a rebuild on the engine i got everything back in place and hook up the battery. as i open the door usually the int lights on the mirror come on, nothing happened, the alarm didnt even sound. i then turned the key to accessories and the radio, boost gauge, and wideband all light up...

ok i got it. if im goin to run the can without a vaccum and just keep the filter is there possiblity of damaging the engine? i just rebuilt and am trying to get everything in order so i have no issues with the new engine.

^ +1 mine only has 2 outlets on it one for the vc and one for the PCV valve. so i should run 1 hose to vc, 1 hose to PCV, remove filter and run a hose from intake pipe to can?

yes ive read that article before. i thought i had the correct setup running to my catchcan. so is my setup correct? i still cant come to a conclusion i just installed it and want to do it correctly.