Sorry to hear man. The shifter linkage that bolts to the transmission that braces both shift cables may be canted too much forward or backwards/unless you already checked that.Loosen the two 12MM bolts, move forwards of backwards, re-tighten. I can't tell you exactly where it should be, but...
There's no reason at all why it can't be spliced in. One just needs to pay close attention to the schematic and double check their work with a multi-meter. Some wire colors may not match up. The ideal way might be to de-pin the junction blocks from the Spyder GS and GST harnesses and work from...
I think you have the connector for the IAC (which has 6 wires). But in any event, pin 2, looking at the connector from the back/top center pin is not connected.I guess there's many different ways to tackle this. I guess for me, it's easier to pin some wires and splice in power to the...
I'd start with capping off all the excess wires that the P/O had before anything. Verify there's no power wires coming from the battery and anything that can contact metal behind the radio. Also, take a look at the large 100 amp and 60 amp fuses in the under-hood fuse box-particularly the wiring...
Oh nice. I missed the cam sensor back there on the passenger side of the head then. That makes things easier. Your Spyder cam sensor plug plugs right in! Those two must be the coil pack and O2, but I could be wrong on that so double check everything and post wire colors if you can.On a side...
Lol on the top plug. I'd bet it's the reverse switch--located on the transmission.The bottom connectors: The right one could be the coil pack connector (likely). The left could be the front O2 sensor.From the picture it looks like you have a 95-96 Turbo motor. The cam and crank sensor are...
Good stuff man! That sounds about right, but I also think you need add a Fuel pressure solenoid (if not, just route the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line directly to the intake manifold and that will get you going just fine) and verify your IACV (Idle solenoid) wiring is OK to plug in. That...
Possibly boost control/wastegate solenoid. On the GST, you got the solenoid by the front passenger side near the intake, correct? If so, that's it and it does have to be pinned to the ECU (pin 11) while the other lead goes to any 12V POSITIVE WIRE off of any of the other solenoids or a wire that...
Correct. That link in (post #3 actually) has a very good "how to" on the resistor pack install. I'd hack the whole injector section with resistor pack connectors and injector connectors from the donor GST you have. Just take time and make it clean and it will actually turn out better than the...
No problem. The resistor pack is absolutely required for running the OEM DSM Turbo 450CC injectors or any other low impedance injector. Your OEM NT injectors are high impedance and thus they did not come with a resistor pack. I say start wiring it up now and looking for a set of injectors if you...
Are you going to be running a turbo 97-99 ECU? If so, I would manually bring a wire to the ECU from the knock sensor and pin it into pin 78 on the ECU and ground the second wire. You should be able to use all the other connectors. You will have to wire in a resistor pack for the turbo injectors...
Agreed with the above post, but the Ebay ad says "T3" but shows a Mitsu flange, so I'd stay away. I'd recommend an EVO 3 manifold as I ran one with great results with my 20G and FP35. Virtual Dyno netted me 440/400 all day on E85 with my 20G. I know it doesn't look as "flashy" as a nice...
The sealing oring that sits between the pump outlet and the housing may have failed. I would check there first after verifying the AFPR and all external connections visually.
All good advice. If you don't want the oil pan to leak, use Mitsubishi's sealant "MD970389." It's pricey, but if you seal the tube after use, you will get much use of that sealant for multiple engines (and parts).But, in any case, make sure you add sealant to the tips of every 10MM bolt before...
Yamahaulin,Without any sign of improper install or other issues (TOB, fork, can't shift, etc.), I would say the chatter is 100% normal. My friend's QM 8 leg on his EVO 8 chatters during clutch depress as does my Comp Twin on the DSM as does the Exedy Twin on my EVO 8. Chatter is an...
Derail20T,Yeah, I saw your old profile. Your above mod list (post #7) makes much more sense now as you just don't have a factory freak JDM motor. :)
I had the same issues Friday at my local track with the alternator/battery light flickering on an "Autozone" unit (<6 months old). I checked my...
First off,GREAT numbers. That car is a beast. I miss my E85 20G setup just because it was a street monster.Secondly,Get rid of the Pacesetter Header and put a 2G exhaust manifold (ported fire ring/or not lol/still better) or get an EVO 3 exhaust manifold. It's cheap and you will notice...
I have Sparco Monza's wrapped in allante from a local upholstery shop. They are great seats--once you put good upholstery and padding on them. I would consider getting them reupholstered. Any good shop can follow the traces of the original stitching. Expect to pay 400-700 bucks for a quality OE...
You're good then/if max you see is 12 PSI. Still have your car logged (I say this to everyone) to make sure there's nothing prematurely causing motor issues (AFR/TIMING/IDC specifically).
Yes. Well tuned, stock head/block, good fuel mods, I prefer the T-28 over a 16g any day for daily driver.After you figure your issues out, just monitor your boost levels. With your exhaust and intake mods, you may be taxing your fuel system quite a bit. Again, I'm not sure what fuel mods you...
The right answer is: get the head decked.The OEM composite style headgaskets leave divots and material everywhere. The "channel" that the coolant made may have created an uneven valley on the head. Take a GOOD look, clean it well, and when you think it's ok, get it decked anyways. :) (I'm not...
Agreed on the Felpro Composite. The cylinder bore on the Felpro is actually slightly larger than the OE Mitsu composite, although I don't have any measurements/I just put the two together and compared. I'm running one right now on an 85.5 bore. Daily driven. Mods in the profile.Use L19...
The headgasket could fail in such a way where a coolant jacket is ever-so-slightly connected to a cylinder only allowing coolant to be sucked in during idle situations. During more positive driving, combustion chamber gases will enter the cooling system causing all sorts of overheating/boiling...
Splice the new head-unit's blue "remote" wire to the dangling skinny blue wire on the Scosche. Connect the front RCA left/right off of the Scosche to the head-unit's front pre-outs. Connect the rear RCA left/right to the head-unit's rear pre-outs. Hopefully your deck has 4 pre-outs on the back...
I'm surprised the common brake and battery lights aren't on with this issue. Check the wiring carefully for the alternator regulator (should be a connector right in front). Disconnect your battery when you're doing all of this. Also, check the main alternator power wire.The OBD scanner is...
Double check everything. Try a thicker set of O-rings and lubricate them well/make sure they don't pinch. I did what you did and had no issue. It's probably just a thickness issues.Try here for some size info:Power Steering O-ring ClarificationEDIT: Scroll to Post #13
I have had eBay rotors and while they got me going for very cheap, they warp very easily (maybe since my car needs much more stopping power than "stock"). I would stay away, even if you're only going to do very little track use with them.If you MUST get them, use a VERY good quality brake pad...
I recommend ARP L19's for the head studs. They are worth the extra money. They won't get spongy "the second time around" god forbid. Actually, I've had stock 2G TTY head-studs yield less than the ARP standard head-studs, but that's just me.Just make sure your BOV doesn't leak at the boost...
Agreed on the transistor pack and cam/crank sensor connectors (between the engine and driver's side firewall). Clean all the corrosion/if any and re-seat. Have a good look at your fuse-box/fuses too. Does your check engine light illuminate with key-on still?This may also be fuel pump/fuel pump...
Sound clip? Lol J/K...but if you do have it...post it!Have you checked for hairline cracks on the exhaust manifold and turbocharger area (specifically underneath where you can't see)? That could explain the coming and going as metal expands and contracts. Also, a loose downpipe or warped DP...
A shop would cost you easily $800-$1200 for a full head decking, OEM parts, and fluids. About half would be labor. Every shop is different. You can probably piece all the parts together pretty cheap also.I would change all the timing pulleys to include the tensioner and belts. This way you...
I've run a 255 HP (un-modded) on my bone stock 95 GSX and I was able to keep the fuel in check. I also had an SAFC and 625CC injectors and it still idled stoich. I guess mileage varies with every person and the age of the FPR. He shouldn't be pig rich that way though. The only way to know is to...
While the damage look like it's away from the roller's route, something catastrophic happened and it's *usually best to have them checked close up for microscopic cracks.It's really 50/50. You might be able to bolt them up as-is, but will never know if the cam's are twisted or have some...
Check the wiring from the SAFC to the ECU. Maybe something came loose on the MAF intercept wire. Also, Make sure the SAFC settings are still set. Remove the SAFC from the loop and see if it "went bad." Don't forget to jump the MAF intercept wire or use the included jumper plug that originally...
Your alternator could be on it's way out but usually the brake and battery lights would be on while you're driving normally. The tach and speedo going out is a telltale sign that the battery is losing power and the charging system is not working.Start with the fuses to include the 100 amp...
Seems like you have access to some logging software and a tactrix as you stated that you have set the target idle.I would log all the sensors to include the TPS and MAF while monitoring everything else with the engine off and then on. Do you have a wideband? If not, you could look at the...
Looks like an RS. (2.0 /non-turbo).While RS's and GS's should be OK if well maintained at 130K miles, what alarms me is that there has been some modifications to it (exhaust mainly). The car would be a good car for you to drive around and be reliable if it had no modifications, which this...
The AFC intercepts the MAF signal and the MAF signal wires have to be connected/spliced back together. You can't just unplug it/unless you already did that. Verify the idle switch also (on the TB).Seems MAF related.
Place the belt on both gears as best as you can get it without swaying too far left or right. One mark will be ever so slightly lower than the other. Once the belt is on both, zip tie the belts on both gears or have a friend or have yourself hold and gently walk the two gears in unison one tooth...
I'm assuming you have a non-turbo intake manifold without a boost signal/nipple for a BOV. If that's the case, just tee-off any other vacuum line that goes into the intake manifold. The fuel pressure solenoid line comes to mind. Also, one of the throttle body nipples may work which runs to the...
If the axles are seated, you shouldn't have an issue like yours. Verify the passenger side axle cup is almost flush with the transmission and the drivers side is in by verifying there is very little "smooth silverish" surface protruding from the axle shaft seal if AWD or again the cup is near...
When you get into big power later or even just now to practice, you can buy a throttle body flange, and intake manifold flange, 4 velocity stacks, a length of tubing (cut in four even pieces for the runners with one end massaged to a nice oval-like hole to weld to the flange), and some sheet...
Do you feel the gear engagement when you row through them (I'm assuming engine off of course)? There should be a slight to loud audible click and you should feel it in the shifter too. It shouldn't feel like a "soup bowl" if all the cables are connected right and the transmission is fine...
I voted 20g--specifically OEM MHI TD05H-20G (take a Hahn Super 20G and shove a 7CM DSM housing on it). If you want a solid 350 WHP, you will get it and be daily drivable. It will not hit like a freight train off the line like a 16G, but this can help if you go to the track to get that traction...
These are good words. Make sure you got .5/.020 over pistons because the worst case scenario for your black soot at idle is melted/scuffed/ruined pistons and rings. Take the spark plugs out and get/borrow/con someone into using a bore-scope and look at the tops of the pistons. Make sure you...