One of those lines comes from a boost source and the other goes to the wastegate, So basically you put the MBC in place of the stock solenoid. Whichever one you end up getting will have instructions as to which line goes where.

Get a manual boost controller, It just goes right in place of the wastegate solenoid. Glad that you figured it out.

If you have access to compressed air, You can blow air into the wastegate nipple to make sure it moves the armcool man, let us know for sure

If you do notice a difference, The stock boost controller may be letting the wastegate open too soon, Wastegate solenoid stuck open...If you notice no difference, The wastegate itself may be sticking open, Or leaking essentially. The next step would be to shim the wastegate actuator off the...

Cool, Missed that, Yes the stock wastegate solenoid/mbc is the connection you just mentioned. Have you tried blocking the line off yet?

What do you have done to this car? Is it all stock?

Basically, Blocking boost from the actuator will allow the turbo to go full boost. If it does not build boost, The actuator may be sticking open. You can remove the wastegate arm from the turbine housing and see if the flapper moves freely.Just to go back to basics here, Before we get ahead...

This nipple.

Hi,The stock boost gauge wont go over half even if you were running 60 psi. It doesn't really measure boost.You can check to see if the wastegate is holding,When I ran an evolll I put a couple washers between the wastegate and the compressor cover to add extra tension to the arm.Other...

What are you using for a maf? Or are you sd?

Hi, What is your plug gap at? And what type and age wires do you have?Crappy wires, Or too big of a gap will cause all of your problems.The wide band will read rich during misfires.If your wire are good, Close the gap up t0 .020", Try that.Just to add, Closing the gap can also hide a...

Is there enough room for two o rings on each injector? I have pte's and I run 2 o rings per injector. It seems to help them stay true that way.

Hi,I have seen the auto tensioners go bad and not take up the correct amount of slack and make a clattering noise in the timing cover..It is also possible to leave the pin in the tensioner and forget about it. Usually the timing cover wont go back on in this case , But if they used a...

On the back side of the top pin there is a cap, If you get that off you can remove the bolt that holds it in place, Removing the caliper. Once you have it off you can drive the slide out.The other option, If it is an option for you, Is heating up the caliper bracket with a torch and...

I would not recommend gasket matching, That will make the ports huge, Just port matching, Like the intake manifold to the head. I should have stated that, Thanks!

Oversized valves will help, But are not a necessity to reach that goal.Put the money somewhere else,Intake manifold and turbine housing will make a much bigger difference.Porting and polishing helps too, But don't go hogging out the head, Mild porting is all that is needed, And Port...

Check the grounds. One way to eliminate the possibility of a bad chassis ground is to attach one end of a jumper cable (negative) to the negative battery terminal and the other end of the same cable (negative) to the engine on a clean, Bare metal surface, Try starting it then. If you have a...

Have you pulled the ecu to inspect caps? Sounds like an ecu issue.

Any loss of power?Does it get worse under acceleration?Sound like it could be a misfire, Maybe a bad coil??As mentioned above, Check for the obvious bad mount/roll stop.Maybe the exhaust is touching the underbody?

You can use the ISC from a 1g as long as it is not from a 90',Which by your description of the harness coming from the ISC motor, Sounds like a 90' Piece.Hope this helps.-Dave

Hi,The fic 1120's are a bi*** to idle. Adding a lot of deadtime is normal for them. Did you get the data match sheet with the injectors?? I had fic 1120's, I had terrible luck getting them to idle without going lean and misfiring. Not only do you need to tweak the deadtime, But individual...

It definitely can be a relay.

I bet the both of you turned the tensioner pulley to the left, making it touch the tensioner bracket and tearing up the belt.

How are you measuring the current?Do you have a Voltmeter hooked up in parallel to measure current?

Just wondering how your idle is?My car idles like it has a miss, wideband swings all around from lean to rich, and stalls when I come to a stop.My fuel pressure is set to 43.5 vac line off, My Deadtime voltage offset is correct per FIC's data sheet and my injector scalar is correct.I have...

Try unplugging the ecu.I've seen a number of cars that took a half hour or more to "Go to sleep". The ecu will remain active for a bit in some cars.I can't speak for the 2g DSM, So I may be off base here, But how long have you waited to see if the draw goes away?Another thing could...

First, And easiest thing would be to check the clutch.Check the master for leakage under the dash where the pushrod for the master comes through. Look for fluid around the master and on the floor inside the car.While you are down under the dash, Pull up on the clutch pedal and see if it...

Your issue most likely lies with the crank sensor. Either you have a bad sensor, Or the wiring is at fault.You already removed the timing belt and installed the crank sensor right?If so, Check the wiring at the crank sensor for a 5 volt reference, Key on engine off, Check for ground on the...

Do you have an alarm??Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key to the on position?Does a theft light flash on the dash when the key is off?Did you check compression?Check your grounds.It could be a broken wire, Blown fuse, Grab a dvom and a sevice manual and...

Problem was a bad connection/Damaged trace between pin 52 and Tr102.

Hi everyone,I have an issue with my ecu, The #2 fuel injector is not getting grounded by the ecu.I was hoping someone would know what I need to replace, Or what to check for damage.Thanks, -Dave

Hi, Sorry I cant help you with a pic, Because I have a 1g, The difference between a 1g and 2g is the year. The 1g's are 89-94 and 2g's are 95-99. You have a 2g.Have you checked the fuses? I'm sure you have , Just checking.Does the motor turn over?

I figured I would post this for any one who may be experiencing erratic fuel trims.I was having this problem for a couple months, It was making me crazy. My Low trim was going from 85 to 139 at times, Some days it was steady. I was constantly chasing it.I went through everything I...

Here ya go...

Hi all, I have a pressure plate here that I can not identify. It has the numbers 217 -078 stamped on the back side of the fingers, Any help would be appreciated. ACT is closed on the weekend so I can't call them. Thanks in adance, -Dave

That's somewhat comforting. I have an E316g I was considering putting on, I just can't bring myself to do it. Every time I do something to the car I'm driving, That's something that's not getting done to the other car I'm building.

I am running the BR7ES's now, My timing is 3k, 14*, 4k, 15*, 4500, 16*, 5k, 16*, 6K-7500, 17*, At 21 psi.So far so good. I was getting the worst detonation between 4-5k for some reason. The meth has helped tremendously.I am curious to see how the stroker responds to timing...

This is on a 2.0L, I never had this problem until the 9:1 pistons.

No way to measure after the IC yet, Im running a 375 ml/min nozzle, turning on at 10 psi. I may try running a higher meth ratio. I have a 625 ml/min nozzle, Which i think is way too big for me right now.

I am trying to figure out if my timing is average, Or below for my compression and turbo on pump gas. I have 9:1 manley pistons, With a decked head, Probably decked more than once. CR may be a bit higher than 9:1. Compression is 205. I am running a 14b with a 7cm turbine housing @ 20 psi. 93...

I use a torch to heat the area around the bleeder, Be careful , Brake fluid is flammable. don't get crazy, Just hot enough to turn it.There is also the option of left handed drill bits and extractors. Just don't bite into the threads.You can also crack the line loose instead of the...

Both, I don't really hear it in any other gear beside 4th and 5th. Say you are cruising on the highway 60-70mph, And want to accelerate, It is the worst at tip in, Then sporadic from 3/4 to wot.

I am having a terrible knock situation that has been plaguing me since I put in my Manley 9:1 pistons. I have audible detonation under load in 4th and 5th gear. I can hear it in the car!!!My question is this, Is it possible to have good afr's with a fuel delivery issue? I know fuel...

I have given it some thought, And not only is it too short of a distance for the mixture to vaporize and burn, There is also vacuum in the manifold which can suck the water from the line.Has anyone else gotten the snow stage 1 kit? I can't find out which two nozzles come with the kit. I...

Turboglenn, Truly sorry to hear of the hard times you have fallen on. I came on to look for your meth injection write up and just got totally bummed out. You have posted tons of informative material here on tuners, I have read lots of it, Thanks. I know it may sound cliche, But stay strong man...

I know what you mean, The #4 runner is right there. I ordered the snow kit and I am waiting for it to come. Do the nozzles have nuts? Or just drill and tap to install? I cant find anything on it. I am pretty sure my tb elbow is too thin to tap.

I need some insight on injector placement, I don't want to have to weld a bung into my tb elbow, So I was thinking of tapping in right after the tb on a 2g intake manifold. I was thinking in this spot, But from underneath, What do you guys think?

It crossed my mind as well. Anything is possible.

Indeed it does, Yet People have been doing it without and claim to have no issues.