They are 28x8.5 M/t's. The car usually feels pretty solid going down. Leaving on 20-24psi it does track a bit to the left in first but straightens out well for the rest. Probably going to switch to something a bit wider soon though. For the size and weight plus price I honestly couldn't be more...
Hey guys hope all is well with everyone. Just getting around to updating this thread. Made some changes to the car including allowing my good friend Waynespeed full control of the tuning and super happy with the results. Finally got it dynod and pretty impressed on the power it made. Especially...
Hey guys just passing through figured Id post updates. Car is still alive and better than ever. Just made switch to fueltech ft550 and full m1 and couldnt be happier. Have dyno scheduled in two weeks.
Attempt to make more power with the manifold while keeping the actuated runners. I picked up a sh*t load of torque down low with the cyclone and wastegate mod. The car was able to stall from 3200 to 4200 without spray with just this change. I would like to see if I can squeeze a bit more out of...
So I'm going to be taking my cyclone intake manifold and build a custom plenum for it. Going to go for a 4" tubular plenum with 8 velocity stacks. I'm using the wastegate mod to actuate the butterflies. Will be taking pictures once completed.
Here's the video of the 10.7 pass. Watch how the car is pulling through the brakes and then I came off the brake half way through the 60ft and still cut a 1.7. This happened because the vacuum pump wasnt operating at full voltage.
Yep, it's fine though now I'll install the 120amp Saturn alternator and be done with that. It's crazy how the car completely died the last pass and still made almost the same mph but a lot lower et. I think the pass might have been going more to a low 10 high 9.
Hey guys got a bit if an update. Finally got a chance to get the car out to the track. Had a few first time out issues and a few extremely strange ones. In the end I was able to get the car back in shape to run up until the alternator went ending my night. Best pass of the night was 10.7 on...
1st your wrong. You will have to slightly modify a bracket that is welded under the eclipse bumper. Also you will need to modify the wiring to the rear lights if not your yellow amber turn signals on the talon bumper will light up when you press the brake and flash fast as if you have a bulb out.
As long as you didn't cut the wires for the Saftey nuetral switch the car should still start in park or nuetral regardless of the aem. Check that you have the Saftey nuetral switch adjusted properly. If incorrect it will not swing in park or nuetral. Also make sure you have the harness going to...
Have you checked for spark on all cylinders? Also see if you can borrow a injector tester, or build your own it's just a small light with two probs to test the signal. Do you have the original cam crank sensor setup? I can't say that a compression test will do any good with cams that big the...
How long has the battery been sitting? Good chance if it's not swinging fast enough you need to charge the battery or jump start it. What are the current symptoms of your no start?
It looks like that can be polished and deburred out. Same thing happened to my head and cam and both polished good enough to run. That head an cam are still in my drag car and has seen 9k+ rpm and more than 8 dyno sessions.
Yeah that's what I had. The issue I had was when I raised the boost to 45psi the car would break up. The real problem was when I raised the boost is the same time I activated the secondary injectors, and when I setup the secondary injectors I had forgotten to set the phasing for injectors 5-8...
Hey guys another update, tried getting the coils with separate igniters working but couldn't get it to spark correctly. In the process I realized why it was that the spark was getting blown out on higher boost with the 8 injectors. I contacted Devin from Boostin and he is going to look over my...
I think I may have found a solution and my answer to my question. Just going to test my theory out before posting up the info. On another note does anyone know how to convert the aem to send a falling edge trigger for the 4 coils other than wiring in 2 factory transistors.
I'm currently looking for some help to try to setup my AEM to run sequential ignition. I found it rather odd that I wasn't able to find anything online after a few days of searching. I remember seeing a thread awhile back that Turboglen made about converting your car to fully sequential...
I didn't bother gaping them smaller. I had already decided that this was the limit of the ignition I had. The new coils don't use a cdi box each coil has it's own sperate igniter. This is a 4 channel smart coil setup. With these I can adjust dwell time to help get a better spark.
Update- Bought a new ignition system. Was able to get some of the wiring done today. I can't wait to test it out and get this car to the track.Just finished up the harness. Just have to wire it into the car now and make a cover plate.
Check for vacuum leaks. Also I believe your supposed to have a way to keep the wastegate flapper shut if I'm not mistaken. The way you have it setup your constantly bleeding off exhaust pressure.
He didn't realize that at the shoot out your also tech'd by the other racers. I know I'm voting to use this thing as one of those what happens if you drink and drive crash advertisements.
The 8224 coils won't be hot enough. I have ran the blaster coils at 50psi but this was a sequential setup. I'm not 100% sure they would have enough charge time if ran waste spark but the will be much better than the 8224s.***FWIW I would just use the Msd with the stock coilpack and some...
I can tell you from personal experience 6-700hp might be about the limit of those 300m coils. I have them on my car and @34psi I made 701 and spark was perfect. Once I pushed them up to the 40psi range they would blow out. Bear in mind this is on a waste spark system with a dynatek though. I did...